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Distributor frozen
#1
Did a search a few different ways, but came up empty.
Trying to adjust my timing and I found my distributor is frozen (351C) - will not turn at all. Started the soaking process and saw lots of Google results on the topic, but most end up with the distributor destroyed. My car has A/C as well, so access is limited. Any suggestions beyond the usual pry bar/BFH? I'm converting to Petronix and want to get everything dialed in.
Thanks
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#2
I saw that photo on Facebook. IF you are hell bent on removing (some wouldn't now that you have found that) PATIENCE and lots of soaking and freeing housing BEFORE "prybars" are used.

WHY a petronix? Why not just install new points and condenser cap and rotor wires and plugs and rebaseline the motor?????

Mark
P.S. The only reason I ask is SO MANY tear into a car, maybe that doesn't run and don't go in the correct steps. The other thing that happens is those that "can only do certain repairs" PICK what they think is EASY only to find they open up a can of worms doing so.
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#3
Get a strap style oil filter wrench where the handle is also a square tube that will fit a 1/2 drive socket. You may want to remove the vacuum canister first to get the best grip on the housing and it should turn. Heat may help break it loose. Turning the engine over may also help break it free. I had to do the same with my car when I got it and it took some effort, but it came out without damage.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
[+] 1 user Likes Jeff73Mach1's post
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#4
+1 on the oil filter tool that you can use a socket wrench on. This also allows you to use an extension so you can get above the a.c. compressor. If you want to re-use the distributor never pry on it.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
[+] 1 user Likes Don C's post
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#5
Strap wrench sounds good - I'll follow up.
Thanks
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#6
Sometimes, you just have to move things out of your way. The upper A/C compressor bracket with the adjustable tensioner comes off with 5 or 6 bolts. It would make your life easier to remove that so you have some room to work. The compressor comes off with four bolts from underneath and you could slide it toward the shock tower and bungie it there.


[+] 1 user Likes Hemikiller's post
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#7
I believe the OP (answered on FB ) he got it out. SO we will see if he returns here to tell us his experience (or if there is now new work to be done)

Mark
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#8
I didn't post anything on FB, so it wasn't me. I have to get a strap wrench and let it soak a bit more - probably this weekend. Thanks


I believe the OP (answered on FB ) he got it out.  SO we will see if he returns here to tell us his experience (or if there is now new work to be done)

Mark
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#9
After 3 days of soaking with PB Blaster and tapping on the housing a few times a day it finally broke loose this AM. After working it back and forth it now moves freely. In this case I had time, so patience paid off. Thanks for the suggestions -
[+] 1 user Likes drk1313's post
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#10
Great News!!!! PB Blaster is some amazing stuff.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


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