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Disassemble and reassemble with same parts?
#1
My 351CJ was rebuilt by the PO about 5 years ago.  It has sat almost the entire time.  It runs now but has a leaking\blown head gasket.  I am thinking about pulling the whole motor so I can clean and detail the engine bay plus paint the motor.  While out I was thinking about pulling the motor apart and see how the bearings are wearing and check for any signs of rust from moisture setting up inside the motor.  Can I do this and reuse the same rings and bearings if all appears ok or should I go full on rebuild with hot tanking the block and replacing all bearings and rings?

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#2
(08-21-2018, 06:21 AM)scgamecock Wrote: My 351CJ was rebuilt by the PO about 5 years ago.  It has sat almost the entire time.  It runs now but has a leaking\blown head gasket.  I am thinking about pulling the whole motor so I can clean and detail the engine bay plus paint the motor.  While out I was thinking about pulling the motor apart and see how the bearings are wearing and check for any signs of rust from moisture setting up inside the motor.  Can I do this and reuse the same rings and bearings if all appears ok or should I go full on rebuild with hot tanking the block and replacing all bearings and rings?

You can re-use the the bearings and rings if all is good if, you have the proper tools and knowledge. How have you confirmed you have a blown head gasket? Chuck
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#3
(08-21-2018, 07:28 AM)c9zx Wrote:
(08-21-2018, 06:21 AM)scgamecock Wrote: My 351CJ was rebuilt by the PO about 5 years ago.  It has sat almost the entire time.  It runs now but has a leaking\blown head gasket.  I am thinking about pulling the whole motor so I can clean and detail the engine bay plus paint the motor.  While out I was thinking about pulling the motor apart and see how the bearings are wearing and check for any signs of rust from moisture setting up inside the motor.  Can I do this and reuse the same rings and bearings if all appears ok or should I go full on rebuild with hot tanking the block and replacing all bearings and rings?

You can re-use the the bearings and rings if all is good if, you have the proper tools and knowledge. How have you confirmed you have a blown head gasket? Chuck

White smoke from left bank and a miss on #8.  I put some leak sealant in and it has helped but still has a miss.

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#4
I agree with Chuck, you can reuse rings and bearings. However, do you know what was used in the rebuild? Quality parts or cheapest available?

When you have it apart make sure you check the head(s) for cracks.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#5
Check the valve job, guides, and components while the heads are off. If all good, install the heads but not the intake, and have a leak down test done to verify ring sealing. If all good, finish reassembly. Chuck
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#6
(08-21-2018, 09:04 AM)Don C Wrote: I agree with Chuck, you can reuse rings and bearings. However, do you know what was used in the rebuild? Quality parts or cheapest available?

When you have it apart make sure you check the head(s) for cracks.

I'm with Don here. If I -knew- exactly what parts were used, I *might* be inclined to reuse the parts if they were in perfect condition. 

Then again, given that a set of rings and bearings will run $100 ~ $150, it's really just a sound investment to put new in.


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#7
That's a good idea on the leakdown test, sure makes it easier to do top and bottom tests without pushrods and rocker arms installed.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#8
If there is no ridge in the cylinders the rings should be fine. Check with feeler gauge to see that width of ring grooves and rings have proper clearance. Bearings should also be fine to go back. Check the thrust bearing also for proper end play. Look at the cam and lifters to make sure they broke in correct and did not eat a lobe or lifter up. Keep all the lifters, push rods sorted so you go back in same places to match the wear patterns. You should also look at the front cam bearing to be sure they installed the correct depth. If too much of the oil hole is showing you will loose need oil to bearings elsewhere.
Just check up on the previous builder. Core plugs are a bear to change with the engine in the car you might pop one out to see if changed in last build. If not do that for sure.
If you do not have taps for all the threads go get you a set to clean out all your threads in the block and heads before you go back together. Use anti seize on the exhaust bolts and bolts in thermostat housing. Look for the baffle to be under the thermostat. Like I say double check all their work. Some guys have too many beers when working on stuff, lol.
You can check for blown head gasket with a CO2 detector. You have the blue solution you put into the container put on top of radiator run the engine and pump the bulb on the tester. Solution will change color if you have a blow head gasket. I bought when I was trying to figure out my cleveland and it turned out to be backwards head gasket on one side. Everything good now.
Pics of the CO2 detector. Make sure the coolant level is down far enough so you do not suck it up into the tester. I did the first time and you have to dump and start over.

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[Image: 100_3501.jpg]

[Image: 100_3503.jpg]


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#9
Old school for blown head gaskets and cracked heads, pressure in the cylinders and a radiator pressure tester on the radiator. On top tank radiators, just looked for bubbles in the coolant with the engine running.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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