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Deluxe Pedal Support Bearing Kit
#1
Moving on to my next project while my motor is out, I am converting from front manual disc conversion (originally Drums ) to power disc by adding a reman. factory booster. While I'm at it, I want to rebuild my manual trans pedal bracket support with the Scot Drake deluxe roller bearing kit. However, in the NPD catalog, this is only listed for 65-70. Has anybody fitted this kit to a 71??. Just asking because a friend used a 69 pedal set when he converted a 71 from auto to manual trans, so I assuming the pedal supports may be the same, not sure. I also know I will need to relocate the push-rod pin as it is virtually impossible to find a power brake pedal for manual transmissions. I found Mustang Steve's website and he offers a kit as well, but to me, being a former machinist, it didn't look as "professional" Could be the pictures and info didn't do it justice.
The SSBC conversion I used with Kelsey Hays style 4 piston calipers uses a separate rear brake regulator, bypassing the distribution block. Would it be prudent to remove this and go with a new disc/drum distribution block with the power booster?
Comments and suggestion??
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#2
The pedal supports are all different 71-73, but can be used in any 71-3 if you can match the column support bracketry.

If you have a manual brake/manual trans pedal support, then all you need to do is either drill out or remove the threaded inserts that the master cylinder bolts to. There is also a thin sheet filler panel there that needs to be removed as well. Not 100% certain, but you may have to enlarge the lower holes for the booster studs - it's been a while. You can then bolt up a stock power booster and master cylinder. I recommend a fair assortment of swivels and sockets for that procedure, or even better - remove the guage cluster.

As far as a power brake pedal for manual trans, just get a power brake/auto trans pedal and trim down the pedal pad. Big Grin


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#3
I've read The pivot point is different between 71-3 power and non-power brakes.

On earlier Mustangs the pedals shared the same shaft and the 71-3 have
different shafts as the clutch shaft is rear of the brake pedal shaft.

I would ask Bruce (and ONLY Bruce) at Modern Drive Line the best way to proceed!
There are other ppl there that answer e-mails but hear the answer from Bruce even
if you have to call. I got bad info from one of the other workers there on an e-mail I
sent and thankfully Bruce chimed in and set things right!

Good Luck
Paul
  Reply
#4
Smile
rocket366;246657 Wrote:I've read The pivot point is different between 71-3 power and non-power brakes.

On earlier Mustangs the pedals shared the same shaft and the 71-3 have
different shafts as the clutch shaft is rear of the brake pedal shaft.

I would ask Bruce (and ONLY Bruce) at Modern Drive Line the best way to proceed!
There are other ppl there that answer e-mails but hear the answer from Bruce even
if you have to call. I got bad info from one of the other workers there on an e-mail I
sent and thankfully Bruce chimed in and set things right!

Good Luck
Paul

Thanks rocket366 & Hemikiller. I do have a schematic from SSBC on where the relocate of the push rod is supposed to be, I say that loosely! Somehow I just knew it wasn't going to be 'that easy'. Your comments are a huge help and enlightened me to facts I would not have thought of being that 71-73's are basically the same, but maybe not eh!
If needs be, I can take the bracket to my former shop and machine and fab what I need, but that sounds like 'work' to me. As for the brake pedal, I was wondering about using an auto, but wasn't sure if the shape would be the same, considering the clutch pedal position. I need to remove my bracket and physically look at what I've got and go from there.
I actually 'tried' to fit a so called Direct Fit booster conversion kit and quickly found out that whoever made that claim, had obviously NEVER actually fitted it to the 71 Mach1 with shock tower braces. Apart from that minor issue, there is a seam in the firewall that is a direct interference with the base mount on the booster. Enough on that, total crap!
What I'm saying here is I already have a good basic understanding of the process from having to remove the assist spring clutch spring when I fitted a Centerforce II clutch just after I bought the car in 08 and messing around with that booster "thing".
Thanks guys,
Stanglover.
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#5
I'm confused a bit?

The firewall is the same for a power or non-power brake car.

The booster bolts to the same four bolts that hold the pedal
support to the firewall.

So why can't you get a stock booster and bolt it on?

The master I think should be different for a front disc car (larger reservoir for the calipers)?

The difference between power and non-power brake pedal is the
pivot point and the size of the pad which can be cut...correct?

If you need a power brake pedal check with Don at Ohio Mustang Supply!!

Wish I could be more helpful!

Regards
Paul
  Reply
#6
rocket366;246743 Wrote:I'm confused a bit?

The firewall is the same for a power or non-power brake car.

The booster bolts to the same four bolts that hold the pedal
support to the firewall.

So why can't you get a stock booster and bolt it on?

The master I think should be different for a front disc car (larger reservoir for the calipers)?

The difference between power and non-power brake pedal is the
pivot point and the size of the pad which can be cut...correct?

If you need a power brake pedal check with Don at Ohio Mustang Supply!!

Wish I could be more helpful!

Regards
Paul

Ok I see your confusion.
I was referring to an aftermarket so-called direct fit booster conversion, which I believe is the Bendix style, 8" dia. which can bee seen in the NPD catalog. It is no where near the same thing when it comes to fitting the firewall. I even contacted the manufacturer in California to question why they would even claim it would fit the 71-73 firewall. I got no direct answer.
The booster I am going to put in is an original remanufactured booster, so I know it will fit. I am aware of how to put it all in, that's no problem and I know I have to move the push-rod pin down 2" on the pedal. I can either change the original as needed or, as I prefer to keep all the original parts I take off, buy a complete set of pedals. That is looking less like an option as they are very hard to find and expensive. I could also buy a power auto brake which are quite plentiful and mod it IF it is the same thing but with a bigger foot pad.
My original question was about replacing the old support pin and bushing with a bearing kit that Scot Drake manufactures, but is listed for the 65-70 only. The question was, will this kit fit the 71-73 support. Has anyone done this change? I do have options, but a heads-up on the procedure would be helpful.
I hope this clears up any misunderstandings.
Thanks for your input,
Geoff.
  Reply
#7
Yes OK.

Talk to Bruce at MDL they sell a bearing kit also for 65-70

http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/cart...ndriveline

I thought I've read on this site people have used the MDL kit but can't be certain.

Paul
  Reply
#8
rocket366;246763 Wrote:Yes OK.

Talk to Bruce at MDL they sell a bearing kit also for 65-70

http://www.safepay.net/cgi-bin/shop/cart...ndriveline

I thought I've read on this site people have used the MDL kit but can't be certain.

Paul

Thanks Paul, I'll check that out. I appreciate your feedback.
Geoff.
  Reply
#9
rocket366;246657 Wrote:I've read The pivot point is different between 71-3 power and non-power brakes.

On earlier Mustangs the pedals shared the same shaft and the 71-3 have
different shafts as the clutch shaft is rear of the brake pedal shaft.

I would ask Bruce (and ONLY Bruce) at Modern Drive Line the best way to proceed!
There are other ppl there that answer e-mails but hear the answer from Bruce even
if you have to call. I got bad info from one of the other workers there on an e-mail I
sent and thankfully Bruce chimed in and set things right!

Good Luck
Paul

Pivot point is the same, the stud location for the master cylinder/booster pushrod is different. Manual M/C pushrod stud is higher on the pedal, giving greater leverage.

The info I originally gave is to retrofit a stock booster, and was noted as such.


  Reply
#10
Hemikiller;246827 Wrote:
rocket366;246657 Wrote:I've read The pivot point is different between 71-3 power and non-power brakes.

On earlier Mustangs the pedals shared the same shaft and the 71-3 have
different shafts as the clutch shaft is rear of the brake pedal shaft.

I would ask Bruce (and ONLY Bruce) at Modern Drive Line the best way to proceed!
There are other ppl there that answer e-mails but hear the answer from Bruce even
if you have to call. I got bad info from one of the other workers there on an e-mail I
sent and thankfully Bruce chimed in and set things right!

Good Luck
Paul

Pivot point is the same, the stud location for the master cylinder/booster pushrod is different. Manual M/C pushrod stud is higher on the pedal, giving greater leverage.

The info I originally gave is to retrofit a stock booster, and was noted as such.

Thanks Hemikiller. I am aware that the push-rod pin location is lower, no problem with that. I can either rework my original as required or as you say, use an auto trans power pedal and trim the foot pad. At the expense of repeating myself, it is the replacement of the old plastic bushing with a roller bearing kit with a new shaft that I am wondering about as I only see kits up to 1970 listed. I am just about to strip that all down now my motor is out and that will give me a good look at what I have. The question was, " has anyone else used one of these kits on a 71-73?" Looks like no-one has as yet.
Geoff.
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