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Definition of ...
I must admit I have what would be considered less than original orange peel in my paint. If you are going for Thoroughbred it would be judged more critically. It has been a notation on both of my judging sheets but no points deducted. Assistant National Head Judge for 71-73 Johnnie Garner has judged my car at both MCA shows. Johnnie is a great guy and great to talk with after he has judged the car. Look the rules over and decide for yourself which path you want to take. I will say this is my first concourse car and for the time being will be my only one. It is a real passion to get a car to this level. Maybe after I retire from my career I will tackle another, but not in the near future.

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
BKDUNHA has been a inspiration and brilliant sounding board. Realisticaly living here in the UK its tough getting the parts you need. I have purchased parts that are original as well as reproduction parts. I would rather install repro part that looks shiney and new than a imperfect original part. Some parts i bought used like a original carb from a member on this forum. I had it glass bead blasted and it looks like new. The last owner reversed over something and dented the backplate. He had a go at elding but it leaked and looked diabolical. I had the axle stripped out and welded again (will post pics soon). In my opinion the new weld looks better than Ford would have done. If i got deductions for that i wouldnt mind. When i get the car sprsyed there will be no orange peel. Points lost but happy to loose points for a 21st century paint job. As BKdunha said on a couple of occasions. Its your car and you restore it however makes you happy. I reckon when my grabber lime paint goes on and the white vinyl roof i will get mistaken for a pimp lol

1971 Grandé
I restore my cars to MMH specs. (makes me happy!)

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason

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We talk about the paint a lot on the forum. The only real info I have seen on the paint is located in the Ford Facts Book. Scanned copies are on the Forum this is 1971. https://www.7173mustangs.com/attachment.php?aid=11017
They say they used " zinc rich primer" in rust prone areas like inside doors and under the car. During the wash process the body did get a dip in phosphate. The primer is stated as being Epoxy with two coats with wet sanding between coats. Then there were three coats of color and the last was electrostatic application. The paint did have lots of orange peel and the metallic colors had issue with the metallic sagging. The Black paint under the hood was really bumpy and had runs.
The only time I went to a MCA national in Atlanta I was placed in an un restored class. I did get a third place. They deducted points because I had the battery unhooked so the under hood lights trunk light and interior lights did not drain the battery. It was the original battery also. They sent me a long list of things that I would have to change on the car to do any better. The car had 12,000 one owner miles on it and I was original owner. Nothing was changed. That is the reason I just drove it into the barn, poured oil down the carb and it has sat there for 35 years. They said lots of the bolts were incorrect and would have to be changed. That is why I never went back the politics to do any good were not in my blood. It is somewhat of a communist point of view. I has to be only one way to be right. NOT in automotive production especially on model run out late in the year. You get what they have to put on the car.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
So basically now you own a time capsule that will smoke a lot next time you start it..
What is the car state now?

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
(07-10-2017, 11:16 AM)bkdunha Wrote: First off let me say that its is your car and you should finish and show it like you want.  MCA specifies in their judging sheets what qualifies for concourse and modified. If you enter in an MCA show you will typically be classified at the time you arrive to the show.  I will attach the 71-73 judging rules to this email.  These are the 2016 version as MCA has not modified our years for 2017.  I have shown at 2 MCA nationals this past 2 years and will also be going to the Grand National in Kansas City at the end of August.  Judges do not check for part numbers nor vin numbers on the drivelines.  What they emphasize most is correct for the way it rolled off the assembly line and everything matches the vin as decoded to the car and the cleanliness of its presentation.

In my case I do not have a matching #'s engine. It is date correct to the month and year that mine should have been produced. I do have the original transmission and rear end.  Regarding the original question of headers, intake, carb and exhaust.  Changes to any of these items from its original production would be considered modifications and be scored off from judging its originality.  If you are OK knowing these will be deductions and accept it will affect your final score do what you would like, just know that these deductions will affect your final award level.
Having been awarded a silver in the trailered concourse class at a MCA National show (1969-70 Trailed Closed) and a first in the 71-73 daily driven class in a MCA National show., I would have to agree with bkdunha's post. The class you decide to enter has a lot to do with the rules applied. Most of us drive our cars and the occasional and daily driven classes rules take that fact into consideration, so undercoating and radials are not point deductions. The street driven and trailered concourse classes trailered are judged against more stringent criteria i.e no undercoating in the trailered class, but it's ok in the driven class. Its when you get to the thoroughbred class where you can't have service replacement parts or incorrect date coded parts on your car, or points are deducted because the car has a combination of factory delivered markings and tags (prior to dealer prep) and markings or the lack thereof as it had been dealer prep'd. That's where it gets crazy (in my opinion). The unrestored class is an another animal all to itself.

Build your car the way you want it and go show it off. The satisfaction is in restoring/modifying the car to the level you set for yourself when you started.

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

Rackerm, Thanks for sharing I had no idea there were so many different classes to compete in. So back to Vinnie's question 'What is the definition of Concurs' the answer is 'it depends'.

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
Here are all the MCA Classes...including modified classes. Also, There is a MCA National Show Scoring document which summarizes the scoring process.

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1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

Those different classes got me scratching my head. Surely there should be consistency in the way 71-73 are judged. Some classes the 71-73 are judged by these years in a stand alone and other classes 71-73 are lumped in a 1964 1/2-1973 group. Wheres the logic

1971 Grandé
Wow! That's a lot of very useful info and opinions, thanks everybody! I wasn't aware there were so many classes, I'll have to study those. At this point I'm not sure what to do. Money is a big part of the equation so I have to figure out how to get the most out of my bucks. I guess I can start with some basic VIN checks as I really don't want to buy another engine.

Thanks again for all your info and opinions, much appreciated!

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