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Dash Lights
#1
Today for the first time in 18 months since I started the complete rotisserie restoration, I dropped a battery back into the engine bay to test (initial) some of the reinstalled electric circuits. I bumped the starter to make sure it and the engine were ready to fire... good to go.

Heater motor, wiper motor, both ok

As I have not installed any of the exterior lights, I checked each plug end with a test light. Front and rear lights including side markers tested good. License plate light also good. Signal light indicators turn on, but are not flashing intermittent, same with the emergency flasher.

The shifter light works as do the two courtesy lights under the dash. However, at this time I have no other dash lights... I did switch them over to LED's (the shifter and courtesy lights as well which are working).

The car is in its infant stages of having everything working again, but I like the initial progress.

My question is should I be worried about no dash lights at this time or do I need to investigate further. I was confident that I installed the LED bulbs in the correct direction on the circuit board, but this is the first real test to see if they work...
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#2
Side marker lamps, shifter lamp and courtesy lamps are not on the dash lamp circuit. Did you pull out the headlight switch? Rotate it to fully on? Fuse good?

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#3
(02-08-2017, 06:29 AM)midlife Wrote: Side marker lamps, shifter lamp and courtesy lamps are not on the dash lamp circuit.  Did you pull out the headlight switch?  Rotate it to fully on?  Fuse good?

Yes, yes and yes... but I will check the fuse again today. I will look closer at the electrical schematic as well, which I had not done as of yet. Could be a bad head light switch?, although there is power to all the exterior lights when I pull it out. At this stage, my dash lights should have operated? If one led light bulb is installed incorrectly, will that cause all the dash lights to fail? Which means something is amiss... will research further and update. Thx.
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#4
Sounds like you already have the cluster installed. If you didn't there is a thread on the forum that has the printed circuit layout so you can bench test everything before install, much easier.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
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David
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#5
The power transformer on the circuit board could be bad as well.  I don't believe they work like some old Christmas light strings, either (one goes out, they all go out) since they're not wired in series, after all.

Unless the LEDs are specifically marked, you could feasibly have every one of them in backwards - I know when I did mine, they weren't marked very well at all (I thought a little 'nub' on one side of each LED was the '-' side indicator, and installed according to that theory.  Only a few of mine worked, and once I flipped them 180 in their sockets, all was good.

I believe the issue with your signal lights not flashing might have something to do with not having any bulbs in the sockets to complete the circuits.  If I'm not mistaken, the flasher works on resistance (closes the relay when the circuit is activated, builds-up resistance through the circuit as the lights are on, then opens the relay when the resistance is at the correct level, stays open while the resistance drops to a certain level, then closes the relay to power up the indicators, etc., etc.,) and without the circuit being completed, the resistance can't build to the level the flasher needs to function properly.  Or something like that.

I remember with my older cars learning that a signal bulb had burned out by the signal indicator simply turning 'On' and not flashing.  Replaced the burnt bulb, and it all worked again.

Little stuff - you'll get it worked out.  Better to find out these issues now, rather than after the car's all back together (kinda like I did some of the things I've been doing to mine). thumb

Eric

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#6
Mister 4x4 is correct on the turn signals and flashers. There must be good bulbs in all sockets for them to flash.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#7
(02-08-2017, 09:49 AM)Mister 4x4 Wrote: The power transformer on the circuit board could be bad as well.  I don't believe they work like some old Christmas light strings, either (one goes out, they all go out) since they're not wired in series, after all.

Unless the LEDs are specifically marked, you could feasibly have every one of them in backwards - I know when I did mine, they weren't marked very well at all (I thought a little 'nub' on one side of each LED was the '-' side indicator, and installed according to that theory.  Only a few of mine worked, and once I flipped them 180 in their sockets, all was good.

I believe the issue with your signal lights not flashing might have something to do with not having any bulbs in the sockets to complete the circuits.  If I'm not mistaken, the flasher works on resistance (closes the relay when the circuit is activated, builds-up resistance through the circuit as the lights are on, then opens the relay when the resistance is at the correct level, stays open while the resistance drops to a certain level, then closes the relay to power up the indicators, etc., etc.,) and without the circuit being completed, the resistance can't build to the level the flasher needs to function properly.  Or something like that.

I remember with my older cars learning that a signal bulb had burned out by the signal indicator simply turning 'On' and not flashing.  Replaced the burnt bulb, and it all worked again.

Little stuff - you'll get it worked out.  Better to find out these issues now, rather than after the car's all back together (kinda like I did some of the things I've been doing to mine). thumb

Yeah, the bulb thing makes sense, have had this issue before.

I bought the hipo led's and they are marked, so pretty sure they are in right, but did not try to bench test after install... if one led bulb is not working does this effect all in the cluster?

just now going to start trying to figure out the issue. I will look into some of the other comments here as well. 

My light switch is the original and I really don't like how it operates, the lever feels funny when pulling it out or turning, I have a spare may change it out to see where that goes. May pull the cluster out... and see if I can figure out how to bench test if need be. Electrical is basic for me, I am good at putting things back together as I found them, if they fail... we will do our best. I'll keep plugging along... I am persistent.
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#8
On the LED bulbs mine were all marked posit e and negative, however after reading a prior post on here I tested each individual bulb for correct polarity and found that 3 of them were marked incorrectly. Granted I ordered a cheap set off eBay from china.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#9
I did test each bulb before installing and they were all fine.

Let me throw this out there... as I mentioned, the signal indicators work (they are new led's in the cluster). Also, as I have the idiot lights, when I turn the key to start both the alt and oil lights come on as they should (again, the oil light is a new LED, the alt light remained an incandescent as per mfr. specs ). So, some of the cluster lights are working, just not the remaining led lights to illuminate the cluster. These are the only lights on the car not working.

If it was the cluster circuit board none of the aforementioned would operate, correct? I did bypass the fuse on the box and still no go... I am pretty sure the fuse is ok.

Does this mean it is either the light switch or the circuit board transformer pac (although why do the other cluster lights work?). Trying to eliminate the issues one by one.
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#10
My guess is on the switch then. If you have a spare one it wouldn't hurt to swap it out to test.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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