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dash cluster
#1
My 72 Mach has a cluster w/tach. However the harnes is for non tach cluster. Can I direct wire the tach to the distributor to make it work? And I also need a new circuit board the old one is bad. Do I need a standard cluster with warning lights type board to work for the dash lights to work. The circuit board seems to be a common failure with age, should I just buy a new board or try to get a complete used cluster.
What's the best way to go?Dodgy
[Image: 1_30_09_13_10_12_32.png]
Alan L
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#2
For the 71-73's the only solution for the tach cluster is a tach harness as far as I know. However, there may be a means of converting the existing harness. For my '69, the process was to re-pin the plug by moving pretty much every wire around to a new location and then splicing into the pink resistor wire off the switch. There were instructions for this at http://www.boss302.com for my '69, so it was a do-it-myself type job. For the 71-73's I do not know of such a document to walk someone through it. But, there is a poster at the Vintage Mustang Forum called "Midlife" who rebuilds and repairs harnesses as a side job. He might be able to do the 71-73 conversion for you. If you are a member there, PM him and ask.

Regarding the circuit board--if you can find a reasonable priced new one, I would buy it. I would imagine the standard cluster and tach cluster boards are different--so if you haven't found a tach version it is a gamble.
[Image: 4zw1hv.png]
Dave

1931 Ford Model A Station Wagon
1969 Mach 1 - 351C, TKO-600, 4WDB, R&P, A/C, Shaker, Fold Down, etc.
1972 Mach 1 - 351C, FMX, PDB, PS, A/C, Fold Down, Console
1996 Mustang Cobra Convertible - 10psi Procharger
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#3
Tach VS non tach boards are different
Don
Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

[Image: oms_sig_banner.jpg]
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#4
HemiKiller 'Dennis' posted a good write up on modifying the harness slightly to convert a non-tach car over to a tach car.

there is a bad one on the net that shows you how to cut up your harness to make it work, don't follow that.


the best way would be removing the non-tach harness and replacing it with a tach one. i know that is not a great option since it would cost you a few hundred dollars.

another option, instead of making it look stock behind the dash, you could run a set of wires into the engine compartment, i believe it needs ground and the Distributor side of the coil to make it work.

http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/RichP...auges.html <-- i think this is the 'bad idea' version.

i know a lot of guys that keep the idiot lights on the left side of the instrument cluster with the clock, and then run a A-piller gauge pod with a tach and oil and vacuum gauges to avoid dealing with the center gauge cluster also.

going the replacement route swapping harnesses can be dangerous to your wallet. I found out that there are at least 7 slightly different harnesses per year for all the different options ford offered. differences exist between sportroof and mach 1 and 71-early 72 cars and later 72 cars and 73s are very different, so you REALLY have to research what car the harness came out of and what options the car had.

here is a good difference that cost me 100$

71 cars included the underdash lighting and map lights on the main harness even if you didn't get them as an option.
early 72 kepted the underdash lighting plugs, but ditched the map light part of the harness and moved it to a daughter harness that was sort of spliced in with plugs. Well i bought a map light for my car, DOH!!!
73 they totally removed the underdash lighting plugs and map light plug if it wasn't ordered with it.

The V4 and V2 harness is different slightly if you had the seatbelt warning lights its different.

you would have to find a car similar to yours from the same year and if possible the same plant that made it to have a really good fit.

That is why a lot of guy either forget about converting it, or go aftermarket.

one thing i don't like about mounting a A-pillar gauge is you drill holes in the A-pillar cover. the A-pillar cover is REALLY rare depending on your body style (sportroofs) and once you cut it; It will cost tons of money if you ever want to restore it back.
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#5
(08-24-2010, 10:32 PM)69 Rustang Wrote: But, there is a poster at the Vintage Mustang Forum called "Midlife" who rebuilds and repairs harnesses as a side job. He might be able to do the 71-73 conversion for you. If you are a member there, PM him and ask.

Here is the link to Midlifes posting about refurbishing harnesses:

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/1971-t...esses.html
[Image: 57_23_07_10_12_47_19.jpeg]

White 1973 (351C stroked to 408, 4V, FMX) convertible with blue deluxe interior AC and power windows.

Mike
Irwin Pa (MCA # 52193)
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#6
As part of my transformation of "Ice" (my '73 Grandé), I swapped out the 302 for a 429-based 472. As part of that effort, I also removed the "gauge cluster" (including Tachometer and console guages from a '73 Mach I parts care) and installed them into the Grandé.

I know my "limitations", so I got a neighbor (who is an electrician) assist me in the wiring effort. I ordered the "with/Tach" circuit board (as Don stated above, they are different) for a 1971 429 mustang and using the '71 and '73 wiring diagrams (both now here on the site), we wired up the tachometer (and everything else). I was EXTREMELY pleased with the results.

Hope this helps.

BT
  Reply
#7
(08-25-2010, 12:52 PM)72HCODE Wrote: HemiKiller 'Dennis' posted a good write up on modifying the harness slightly to convert a non-tach car over to a tach car.

there is a bad one on the net that shows you how to cut up your harness to make it work, don't follow that.


the best way would be removing the non-tach harness and replacing it with a tach one. i know that is not a great option since it would cost you a few hundred dollars.

another option, instead of making it look stock behind the dash, you could run a set of wires into the engine compartment, i believe it needs ground and the Distributor side of the coil to make it work.

http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/RichP...auges.html <-- i think this is the 'bad idea' version.

i know a lot of guys that keep the idiot lights on the left side of the instrument cluster with the clock, and then run a A-piller gauge pod with a tach and oil and vacuum gauges to avoid dealing with the center gauge cluster also.

going the replacement route swapping harnesses can be dangerous to your wallet. I found out that there are at least 7 slightly different harnesses per year for all the different options ford offered. differences exist between sportroof and mach 1 and 71-early 72 cars and later 72 cars and 73s are very different, so you REALLY have to research what car the harness came out of and what options the car had.

here is a good difference that cost me 100$

71 cars included the underdash lighting and map lights on the main harness even if you didn't get them as an option.
early 72 kepted the underdash lighting plugs, but ditched the map light part of the harness and moved it to a daughter harness that was sort of spliced in with plugs. Well i bought a map light for my car, DOH!!!
73 they totally removed the underdash lighting plugs and map light plug if it wasn't ordered with it.

The V4 and V2 harness is different slightly if you had the seatbelt warning lights its different.

you would have to find a car similar to yours from the same year and if possible the same plant that made it to have a really good fit.

That is why a lot of guy either forget about converting it, or go aftermarket.

one thing i don't like about mounting a A-pillar gauge is you drill holes in the A-pillar cover. the A-pillar cover is REALLY rare depending on your body style (sportroofs) and once you cut it; It will cost tons of money if you ever want to restore it back.

I think I'm going to use my standard harnes and run wires from the tach cluster to the distributor. Less to modify and easier way to go. I like the stock tach look.....Thanks for options to everyone
[Image: 1_30_09_13_10_12_32.png]
Alan L
  Reply
#8
OK - so school me on the tach. I have the 'clock/fuel/speedo' cluster and would prefer a 'tach/fuel/speedo' cluster. All of my gauges and plastic are in great shape, so I would be interested in swapping in a factory tach.

Is it possible, considering the circuit board on the back and are the gauges modular enough to allow simply finding a tach and swapping it with the clock and performing a little rewiring trickery? (I'm not as concerned with the wiring looking stock - I'm restoring mine to drive, not to win Concours de' Elegance.

I'll be reading the write-ups the links are posted to. Thanks in advance.
Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]

See my Frankenstang Album on FB.
  Reply
#9
To answer your question, Eric...Yes, that is what I did. Rewired the stock tach and used a tach circuit board.

See my post above.

BT
  Reply
#10
Mister 4x4;1796 Wrote:OK - so school me on the tach. I have the 'clock/fuel/speedo' cluster and would prefer a 'tach/fuel/speedo' cluster. All of my gauges and plastic are in great shape, so I would be interested in swapping in a factory tach.

Is it possible, considering the circuit board on the back and are the gauges modular enough to allow simply finding a tach and swapping it with the clock and performing a little rewiring trickery? (I'm not as concerned with the wiring looking stock - I'm restoring mine to drive, not to win Concours de' Elegance.

I'll be reading the write-ups the links are posted to. Thanks in advance.

I make tachometer that uses the warning light cluster and matches the speedometer. It is a modern three wire hook-up so if you're running an MSD you won't need a tach adapter. You can see it here: http://www.rccinnovations.com/Mustangs.php just scroll down to the M7123S tachometer.

[Image: b67gqu.jpg]

Bob
  Reply


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