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Current project update
#1
runninpony 
Currently deep into a restomod on my 73 Mach 1 found lots of rust under the painted sheet metal( inner aprons, cowl, floor pan) during the replacement of the floor pans I found a nice set from Laurel Mountain Mustang that fit great. Well during the tear down found that the was lots of fiberglass hiding lots of rust holes in both left and right rear passenger floor pans and with my luck no reproduction part. I contacted National Parts Depot and found that they have 2 types of this floor pan both for earlier models. Looking at both decided to try the 66-68 model can be modified to fit 69-70. I asked for the measurement and it was preety close to what I needed to replace.
The only draw back is completely flat especially towards the area where the seat belt bolts to the floor pan. Mine was rusted in many areas so I decided to cut it out and patch it with a heavier gauge steel sheet metal. I am enclosing some pics to show how well it works. This may help others in the same situation I am.

.jpg   20101230_IMG_0374.JPG (Size: 243.18 KB / Downloads: 230)
.jpg   20101230_IMG_0375.JPG (Size: 247.3 KB / Downloads: 229)
.jpg   20101230_IMG_0376.JPG (Size: 238.61 KB / Downloads: 229)
.jpg   20101230_IMG_0378.JPG (Size: 240.34 KB / Downloads: 226)
.jpg   20101230_IMG_0380.JPG (Size: 226.79 KB / Downloads: 227)
Please send me any feedback or any information if I am doing something wrong.Wink
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#2
That looks a lot nicer than the hack job I did on mine.


Attached Files
.jpg   drivers side rear.jpg (Size: 136.36 KB / Downloads: 202)
71 Mustang fastback
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#3
(12-29-2010, 06:44 PM)rafaelpadro24 Wrote: Currently deep into a restomod on my 73 Mach 1 found lots of rust under the painted sheet metal( inner aprons, cowl, floor pan) during the replacement of the floor pans I found a nice set from Laurel Mountain Mustang that fit great. Well during the tear down found that the was lots of fiberglass hiding lots of rust holes in both left and right rear passenger floor pans and with my luck no reproduction part. I contacted National Parts Depot and found that they have 2 types of this floor pan both for earlier models. Looking at both decided to try the 66-68 model can be modified to fit 69-70. I asked for the measurement and it was preety close to what I needed to replace.
The only draw back is completely flat especially towards the area where the seat belt bolts to the floor pan. Mine was rusted in many areas so I decided to cut it out and patch it with a heavier gauge steel sheet metal. I am enclosing some pics to show how well it works. This may help others in the same situation I am.

Please send me any feedback or any information if I am doing something wrong.Wink
Looks really nice! I had the same problem on mine but alot worse ! I had to fabricate most of that area (by the seat belt anchor) One thing you should have done while you had the frame rail /torque box open is to use a product called rust bullet
http://www.rustbullet.com/
to coat the inside of the frame rail. Really pretty easy to do. A little trick is to fish a string through any hole in the rear of the rail.. cut a piece of sponge..tie the string to it...then tie one more string to it...dip the sponge in the rust bullit & one person in the back pulls the string to him (or her) then the guy in the front pulls it to him (like sawing) Lets you coat the entire inside of the rail...we did the rails & rockers on mine this way while I had access.

Scott
you can see the inside of my rail here it's the silver stuff on the inside
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsYxZ2TLJOk





LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#4
(12-29-2010, 07:56 PM)Qcode351mach Wrote:
(12-29-2010, 06:44 PM)rafaelpadro24 Wrote: Currently deep into a restomod on my 73 Mach 1 found lots of rust under the painted sheet metal( inner aprons, cowl, floor pan) during the replacement of the floor pans I found a nice set from Laurel Mountain Mustang that fit great. Well during the tear down found that the was lots of fiberglass hiding lots of rust holes in both left and right rear passenger floor pans and with my luck no reproduction part. I contacted National Parts Depot and found that they have 2 types of this floor pan both for earlier models. Looking at both decided to try the 66-68 model can be modified to fit 69-70. I asked for the measurement and it was preety close to what I needed to replace.
The only draw back is completely flat especially towards the area where the seat belt bolts to the floor pan. Mine was rusted in many areas so I decided to cut it out and patch it with a heavier gauge steel sheet metal. I am enclosing some pics to show how well it works. This may help others in the same situation I am.

Please send me any feedback or any information if I am doing something wrong.Wink
Looks really nice! I had the same problem on mine but alot worse ! I had to fabricate most of that area (by the seat belt anchor) One thing you should have done while you had the frame rail /torque box open is to use a product called rust bullet
http://www.rustbullet.com/
to coat the inside of the frame rail. Really pretty easy to do. A little trick is to fish a string through any hole in the rear of the rail.. cut a piece of sponge..tie the string to it...then tie one more string to it...dip the sponge in the rust bullit & one person in the back pulls the string to him (or her) then the guy in the front pulls it to him (like sawing) Lets you coat the entire inside of the rail...we did the rails & rockers on mine this way while I had access.

Scott
you can see the inside of my rail here it's the silver stuff on the inside
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsYxZ2TLJOk

Yes I had to fabricate the area for the seat belt anchor and treated the entire area and frame rail with chassis saver after a good clean up. I will update with some pics soon
  Reply
#5
[/quote]
Looks really nice! I had the same problem on mine but alot worse ! I had to fabricate most of that area (by the seat belt anchor) One thing you should have done while you had the frame rail /torque box open is to use a product called rust bullet
http://www.rustbullet.com/
to coat the inside of the frame rail. Really pretty easy to do. A little trick is to fish a string through any hole in the rear of the rail.. cut a piece of sponge..tie the string to it...then tie one more string to it...dip the sponge in the rust bullit & one person in the back pulls the string to him (or her) then the guy in the front pulls it to him (like sawing) Lets you coat the entire inside of the rail...we did the rails & rockers on mine this way while I had access.

Scott
you can see the inside of my rail here it's the silver stuff on the inside
[/quote]

Do you need to clean the rust first with rust bullet?
Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#6
Looks really nice! I had the same problem on mine but alot worse ! I had to fabricate most of that area (by the seat belt anchor) One thing you should have done while you had the frame rail /torque box open is to use a product called rust bullet
http://www.rustbullet.com/
to coat the inside of the frame rail. Really pretty easy to do. A little trick is to fish a string through any hole in the rear of the rail.. cut a piece of sponge..tie the string to it...then tie one more string to it...dip the sponge in the rust bullit & one person in the back pulls the string to him (or her) then the guy in the front pulls it to him (like sawing) Lets you coat the entire inside of the rail...we did the rails & rockers on mine this way while I had access.

Scott
you can see the inside of my rail here it's the silver stuff on the inside
[/quote]

Do you need to clean the rust first with rust bullet?

[/quote]
everything you need to know is right here
http://www.rustbullet.com/faqs.asp?id=1

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#7
Thank you
Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#8
OK!!! done for the day, went ahead and stripped all the EPT coating that was on the floor pan, remover the filler I used to smooth out the welds. I proceeded to clean the entire floor with a wire wheel on my grinder then scuffed the floor with 220 sand paper and applied my first coat of chassis saver( I hope this does what is claims to do). The only issue I'm having is either to use duraglass on the welds to try to make the floor smooth or just leave it alone ( I'm intending to use some type of truck bed liner coating Monstaliner is from the same company that make the chassis saver). Well here are my pics you can see how the rear passenger floor pan section turned out.
.jpg   finished floor 2.JPG (Size: 226.27 KB / Downloads: 134)
.jpg   finished floor 1.JPG (Size: 212.37 KB / Downloads: 133)
.jpg   finished floor 5.JPG (Size: 175.46 KB / Downloads: 129)
.jpg   finished floor 4.JPG (Size: 195.75 KB / Downloads: 128)
  Reply
#9
Looks great! Should last many years!
[Image: 1gq8uo.png]
1971 Mach 1 - 306cid/C4 Bright Yellow
1972 Coupe - 306cid/C4 Gold Glow (in restoration phase)
  Reply
#10
Wow, that looks really nice. That's an awesome job you did.
Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
  Reply


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