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Crank Pulley Alinement Issues
#1
I have a very odd issue with the belt alinement on my 351 C. I have all the original pictures for my disassembly and I am positive everything is put together right. I have rebuilt my 351 and I think through examination I have a two part fitment issue. First I have an aftermarket high volume water pump and an aftermarket crank and balance assembly, I believe the depth of placement and thickness difference are causing the crank pulley to appear to be around 1/2 an inch ahead of the others.

This is what I believe I need to fix the issue: A two groove pulley that is factory size, that doesn't have a blank spot (before the pulley grove starts) where it bolts to the balancer. Meaning I need a factory pully that is shoved in by approximately half of an inch into the balancer.

***I do not want to shim all the brakets out to make up the difference.***

Does this exist? Has anyone else had this fitment issue?

Thanks for the help guys,

Brandon

Yea, Though I cruise through the valley of the Shadow of Rice, I will fear no Turbo, For Thine Torque art with me. Thy forged rods and crankshaft, they comfort me.

Thou preparest a strip before me in the presence of four cylinder enemies: thou anointest my heads with high octane; my quarter mile victories runneth over.

Surely Horsepower and RPM's shall follow me all the days of my life: and I will race on the streets and strips forever.
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#2
This is the summary of my research so far: I believe I found a crank pulley that will fix my alignment issues, however, the pully size is going down to 5.4" from the stock pullies. After a little math that ends up being about 72% of the original pully ratios (both). I have upgraded the alternator so at just 1100 RPM of engine speed it will be putting out 100 amps, (more than the stock even came with) with the reduced ratio. This also means my water pump and power steering pump would be turning slower and that concerns me. I purchased a high volume water pump that is supposed to have twice the water movement through it at low RPM, (according to the saleman) however, I would assume that means I would have a 28 % in cooling reduction from stock, which would follow me at all RPM's. Next I was considering the power steering pump; I have a higher stall torque converter in my FMX rated at 2200 to 2400 RPM at stall that is a 30% grater RPM rate than the stock 1500 to 1700 RPM. Does this mean that because my power steering (my box is variable ratio) would be used mostly at a higher engine RPM to start with I wouldn't notice a difference?

I could use an experienced eye on my considerations.

What do you guys think?

Yea, Though I cruise through the valley of the Shadow of Rice, I will fear no Turbo, For Thine Torque art with me. Thy forged rods and crankshaft, they comfort me.

Thou preparest a strip before me in the presence of four cylinder enemies: thou anointest my heads with high octane; my quarter mile victories runneth over.

Surely Horsepower and RPM's shall follow me all the days of my life: and I will race on the streets and strips forever.
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#3
Can you have the center "snout" of the damper machined down the correct amount? This would allow the damper to slide deeper on the crankshaft.

This should not effect the balance and if it is like all the other dampers I have used it should have plenty of metal left even after milling out 1/2 an inch or so.

- Paul
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#4
I believe that all Ford small block dampers will fit the crankshaft and the seal, the spout length is different.

Here is a listing from Professional Products that shows the different lengths of the damper:

.jpg   Damper lengths.JPG (Size: 70.03 KB / Downloads: 113)

As for your other issues, about reduced accessory speeds, if you need a higher stall torque converter I also assume you have a can and higher idle speed, so I don't see any issues, except possibly charging the battery, at idle.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#5
After i built my 408 cleveland stroker I had an issue with the crank pully lining up properly. but mine was easy. It was set too far back so we just machine a couple spacers to get my crank pulley to line up with the rest. i guess its fairly common with aftermarket balancers.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

[Image: 044.jpg]
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#6
I'm going to look into getting a custom pulley made. I want to try an avoid the reduction but worst to worst I'll be getting the reduction pulleys. I did verify it was my harmonic balancer is the issue. It appears it is pressed out from the block a hair over half an inch from stock. If it goes well Ill take some pictures for fit from original to aftermarket so others can see what my issue was. I'll put the company name and price on it as well.

If anyone has any other ideas please chime in! Thanks for the feed back guys.

Yea, Though I cruise through the valley of the Shadow of Rice, I will fear no Turbo, For Thine Torque art with me. Thy forged rods and crankshaft, they comfort me.

Thou preparest a strip before me in the presence of four cylinder enemies: thou anointest my heads with high octane; my quarter mile victories runneth over.

Surely Horsepower and RPM's shall follow me all the days of my life: and I will race on the streets and strips forever.
  Reply
#7
    I am currently dealing with the exact same problem. Hopefully someone has a solution. Thanks
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