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#71
So the big openings in the front are for an exhaust crossover?

I also noted I will need a thick gasket for the Holley so the rear bowl feed tube does not bottom out on the intake.

Glad I found this issue!  I may actually get somewhere now,
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#72
OK I am frustrated and feeling this will never end.

I finally build my own hose connections to the Holley today because the dual feed line would not stop leaking.  So the good news is that I don't have a fuel leak.


[Image: Hose-rigging.jpg]



So let's start the car, right?  Well I crank and crank with no fire at all.  Check the #1 with an induction timing light, no spark.  Check the coil wire with the same light and get a nice strobe.

Flashback, I decided to go with the Pertronix Ignotor III and a new Flamethrower coil.  I had heard nothing but good.  So now I have a grand total of about an hour runtime on the engine and no spark FROM the distributor.

[Image: Ignitor-III-install.jpg]

[Image: Coil-Connections.jpg]



So I read some tips and check the wires.  Here is where i need help.  The red wire slides loosely over the terminal on the coil using the Pertonics supplied ring terminal.  The factory power wire from the original car harness has a 90 degree shrouded boot to connect to the coil.  If I put a nut on the coil terminal, the boot will not slide on.  When running before I used the boot connector to "trap" the ring terminal to the coil post.

1) Do you think the loose power ring terminal is the culprit for the Ignitor module to not be firing from the distributor?
2) Is there a way to connect the ring terminal to the coil with a longer standoff? 
3) Do I have to cut the original boot from my harness to use this system?

Is there a way to make sure the Ignitor is still good?  What electrical tests should I do?

kcmash
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#73
You really need a more secure connection. As it is now, a bit of dirt or corrosion & you won't have a circuit.

You really need to cut off the ring terminal, cut the original lead off a few inches back, splice both leads together to the one socket (or boot as you call it).

Also, did you remove or bypass the pink resistance wire from the ignition switch? The Pertronix needs direct 12v feed I believe. You know on the original circuit the coil has a non-resistor feed from the solenoid when cranking and then the resistance feed when running? If you only have it connected to the 'run' position it won't spark while cranking. That one caught me out.
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#74
YEs it is likely that the "yellow" boot ISN'T 12V constant !! Run a dedicated 12V wire (temporarily) and try.

Mark
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#75
They sell a solenoid kit to get the 12v without hacking up wiring.

Also the Pertronix III is garbage. Just ask me. You can also ask a couple other members on here. Or search the forum.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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