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Countdown to Start day
#1
Trying to prepare for that highly desired start day. Here is what is on my mind.

1) Just ordered the starter after reading on this forum about the High Torque units.
2) Exhaust is in and secure
3) Need to freshen up a carb for starting and then order the correct one after breaking in the cam.
4) Almost ready to test the wiring harnesses. (Follow Midlife instructions)
5) Need a good routing for the heater hoses. I just can'r seem to remember the proper routing, and it kinda looks like crap right now.
6) Need to buy a radiator. I thought my original would be good after being stored in doors, but I was wrong. Are you guys happy with the aluminum and plastic units out there?
7) How do I start up my power steering pump and break in the cam at the same time? I was going to leave the pump idle at first, but the fan and the power steering are on the same belt.
8) I should probably use some old valve covers for startup just in case I did't get something torqued right in the valve train.
9) Brakes are bled, Clutch is adjusted, no driveshaft yet. (Good for me since this is a 4-speed conversion.)
10) Should I start it with straight water in the cooling system to avoid any issues with leaks and antifreeze?
11) Oil is in the oil pan, assembly lube in the engine. How do i prime the fuel system for a fresh start and 30 minute break in?

What else I am I missing besides beer and friends?
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#2
Got a fire extinguisher for your start-up, just in case?

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

[Image: Flamicon2.jpg]


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#3
midlife;271712 Wrote:Got a fire extinguisher for your start-up, just in case?

Great Point. Hopefully restoration burnout does not end there!
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#4
OK,  Today was the failed start day.  I thought everything was ready, but the things that I don't know how to check without starting the car came to haunt.

1)  Loose hose clamps on radiator hoses.
2) A leak at the back of the water pump right over the crank pulley.  (Found several loose water pump bolts that have me perplexed.
3) Distributor in 180 degrees out.  (After priming the oil system)
4) No fuel from the fuel pump.

So, what do i need to try before the next attemp.  THis is a flat tappet cam setup, so i am worried about additional cranking until I can break it in.

I have never had a mechanical fuel pump fail on me, but I have never had one sit for 15 years of restoration time either.  Is there an upgrade, or just stay with an OEM style?

Should I go ahead and upgrade the distributor to a Pertonics unit?  I want my factory Tach to still work!!!

Is there a recommended coil upgrade that looks stock?

The car did fire when I poured gas in the car, but we never got it "running".  Maybe 5 to 6 seconds of thunder after correcting the distributor position.

Please help.  I have tomorrow off!!

kcmash
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#5
I run a Pertronics first gen, the most basic way to replace points. Never got a problem and tach works fine. If you plan EFI at some point, I've seen some reports that newer versions may become an issue.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#6
check that the lines to the fuel pump aren't plumbed backwards. Car will run with a primed carb for 5-6 seconds if it is then the fuel is gone

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#7
(08-07-2017, 04:09 PM)Jeff73Mach1 Wrote: check that the lines to the fuel pump aren't plumbed backwards.  Car will run with a primed carb for 5-6 seconds if it is then the fuel is gone

Good suggestion, but the pump has a hose barb for rubber fuel line on the inlet and a rigid fitting on the outlet to the carb,  I could not feel vacuum on the inlet on the original carter, so i assume it is bad.  The Chinese unit from O-Reilly has a vacuum on the inlet when I do the same bench test.

Kinda stinks with unknown timing, and the fuel problem. I don't want to keep cranking.

kcmash
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#8
Go get a cheap electric pump, some fuel line and a gas can. Bypass mechanical pump for break in.

If it ran okay with a bit of gas poured down the throat then your timing is probably within range. You can check with a timing light even while cranking.

You should check the engine oil for the smell of gas. 15 years is a long time for a mechanical pump to sit. If it ruptured it might have sent some gas into the crank case. You really don't want that during break in. Wink

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#9
Good advice.  No gas has even made it from the tank yet, so nothing got in the crank case.

With the gas, she stumbled a bit, but never got to an idle state in the 4-5 seconds.  I am thinking per some other recommendations that a funnel and fill the carb manually may give me a better idea if the timing is close enough to run for break in.

It's a beautiful cool night tonight, so if I had help I would give her another whirl.

kcmash
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#10
I wouldn't do a funnel and a manual carb fill. Unless you are thinking it will prime the carb and fuel system enough to get it running.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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