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Correct Paint I
#11
Cross reference to the Concourse Forum.

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/ind...5#msg54975

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
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#12
Pastel Blue;272557 Wrote:For reference purposes... Note the heavy concentration inboard (tunnel area) and then it fades out across the floor panel area to a point where you then see remnants of the original body colour over spray as you reach the rocker panel areas. On bright painted cars, there should also be some blackout evident around the lower rocker panels, as Ford did spray a blackout paint along the lower rocker panel areas.

So it looks to me like Ford or the employees had a mindset if you can't see it then it aint worth bothering with. The underside looks like it never really got a good coat of paint to protect it in its most vulnerable area to rusting

Steve
1971 Grandé
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#13
That is for the most part correct. Remember these guys were not building a car to last 15 years back in those days. The guy on the assembly line usually had between 45 sec to a minute to finish their task before the car was out of their reach in their workstation. While paint had a little more time to get the car sealed and painted once the unibody was loaded on the line for assembly it was all about moving it down the line. The guy spraying the sound deadener probably sprayed a couple hundred cars a day. It becomes pretty boring shooting that many cars in a day at some point it is just get it on there so it passes inspection for my station.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
  Reply
#14
So what product would be used as a sound deadener. Having a Deluxe interior it would have been laid down thickly.

Spoke to mechanic and sprayer today near me. I explained what i was looking to achieve and they both understood my needs. They both work exclusively on classic American cars. Sprayer will document everything before stripping the car down. I have made a note of everyones imput. Thank You to everyone that posted in this thread.

Steve
1971 Grandé
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#15
Any undercoating like material usually works fine, Here in the states products like Shutz, or Spectrum Second Skin Sludge are examples I have seen used. Your sprayer may have a product they prefer. If he does ask him to spray out some on a test sheet to see if it duplicates the thickness of what is on your car. It goes on thick in many areas. I am of the opinion interior trim level did not make a difference. The guy under the car in the pit spraying the sound deadener probably did not know the trim details from the build sheet. It was just another mustang or cougar floor pan passing over the top of him.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
  Reply
#16
bkdunha;272760 Wrote:Any undercoating like material usually works fine, Here in the states products like Shutz, or Spectrum Second Skin Sludge are examples I have seen used. Your sprayer may have a product they prefer. If he does ask him to spray out some on a test sheet to see if it duplicates the thickness of what is on your car. It goes on thick in many areas. I am of the opinion interior trim level did not make a difference. The guy under the car in the pit spraying the sound deadener probably did not know the trim details from the build sheet. It was just another mustang or cougar floor pan passing over the top of him.

Waxoyl comes in black. Would this be a acceptable product for concours?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waxoyl

Steve
1971 Grandé
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#17
I am not familiar with the product and the Wikipedia description really does not give me enough information. I looked it up on Youtube, but only found an application video nothing showing the product. The material needs to be a thick rubber/asphalt like material. I would consult with you sprayer and get his feedback on materials. Knowing that they specialize in American cars they should have a product they use already.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
  Reply
#18
Pegleg;272351 Wrote:I am probably going to be ready for paint before the end of the year. My paint code is "I" Grabber Lime. I am sure that paint will not be available here in the U.K. without a reference to mix from

So is there a company in the U.S that make paint for the purist?

And will they supply samples so i can get the correct paint made up here in the U.K? I don't think the U.K laws allow import of motor industry paint and no shipper in the U.K will move liquids around

Is the engine bay color matched to the rest of the body, Grabber Lime?

I also need to know the correct blue for the engine( I understand theres 2 shades of blue)

And what exactly is painted on the block and any item that bolts on to the engine

And i understand paints of today are water based as opposed to the original paint of 1971. So is the original paint ingredients still available and sold?

How much paint do i need to order?

Pegleg,

Unless I missed it, a couple of your questions were not answered. The original paint in 1971 was likely a dispersion lacquer but at best may have been a single stage enamel. Both types of paint are probably still available although I would stay away from lacquer even though it's probably the cheapest finish. Single stage enamel (with a urethane hardener) is an okay choice and would be able to be buffed (orange peel, contamination) since in your case, there's no metallic to disturb. Urethane basecoat/clearcoat systems are the most expensive but are the most durable. The clearcoat allows for good buffability and blocks UV rays that can fade the color. I'm not sure of the EPA rules in the UK but most paint here is solvent based. California may be the only state that requires waterborne systems. I've been away from the automotive painting scene for a while so there may be other options and certainly other opinions. My car is also Grabber Lime and I will be using base/clear for the final finish. Good luck.

Dave

Tradition is the preservation of the flame, not the adoration of the ashes.
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