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Converting to power disc brakes
#1
Since i picked up the 72 with power disc brakes I am going to swap them onto my 71 that only has manual drum all the way around. Can anyone tell me what all i need to take off the 72? I know i will need spindles and all brake stuff there and brake booster master cylinder proportioning valve and pedal. But will i need to use any brackets under the dash from the 72 or are the pedal mounting brackets the same for manual drum and power disc??? Has anyone done this conversion before? I am going to buy all new calipers rotors mc booster wheel bearing .... pretty much everything and do the front end while im at it. any advice would be great. thanks Kevin

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#2
I did this on my '73. I changed the pedal support bracket also. I did this many years ago but I believe that it is different due to how the booster goes through the firewall. Most of the stuff you need to change is pretty obvious. You will also need to change the proportioning valve.

[Image: faood3.png]
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#3
I think the pedals are different also, but I may be wrong. Don from OMS knows, maybe he will chime in.
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#4
Thanks guys. I just wasnt sure about the pedal bracket under the dash. Thats gonna be fun to get out Confused O well a box of beer and some patience and i will get it all out.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#5
turtle5353;32277 Wrote:Thanks guys. I just wasnt sure about the pedal bracket under the dash. Thats gonna be fun to get out Confused O well a box of beer and some patience and i will get it all out.

Actually not to bad, take the seat out for more room
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#6
I would just use the pedal hangar in the '71, as there are differences year-to-year. All you need to do is drill out the weld-nuts with a 7/16" drill bit. The studs of the booster will then slide right through. I also suggest an assortment of extensions and a 9/16" swivel socket for the booster stud nuts. You will need to swap the pedal as well, the pivot point is in a different spot.

Regarding master cylinders and brake lines, be sure to get the matching set. There was a change over in '72 and the line nuts were different sizes. I would be sure to get a 71 master and 71 brake lines, just to match the car. Get the lines directly from the manufacturer, such as Classic Tube, not a Mustang parts house which will F-up the application on you. The booster and the rest of the bits are the same.
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#7
ok man i did this exact same thing on my 72
you need
1 the p/b pedel and bracket, so u dont need to drill in your manual brake one
2 spindles off the pb car
3 p/b proportning valve (sorry my spelling is bad)
4 p/b hoses to the calaper (buy the russel ones there braided steel and awesom for cheaper than origonal)
5 calapers
6 rotors and dust sheild
7 p/b bearings
8 master cylander
9 pb booster and that rod that goes to the break pedel
and i think thats it
took me about a day to do it but i took my time
oh ya CHECK UR UPPER AND LOWER arms great time to replace them if there bad


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