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Convertible Top - Manufacture
Can anyone offer a good manufacture for a vinyl top with a glass rear window from my 73 Vert?
I have been looking at either KEE or EZon.  If someone knows another one, I'd consider that also.
We plan on installing the top ourselves.


I am partial to Kee since they are 100 miles from me in N.C..
They do have some really nice tops and if you are not going original the canvas tops look great. They vinyl coated like original shows marks easily for sure. 
There was an EZON top on my 73 vert when I got it but it was shot.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
thank you.

There's a video on the West Coast Classic Cougar website where a professional installer puts on a EZ-ON Top on a 71 Cougar, very interesting to watch!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
that is where i got the EZon reference and the reason why we are attempting this on our own. It would also seem easier to reverse the process and start at the front and pull back. If i start at the front, the back can then be pulled behind the braces to tighten up the wrinkles. Mark it with chalk and then staple it out. In the video, they take it on, take it off and then back on again several times. I cannot believe that the Ford Corp would take this amount of time in putting on so many convertible tops in that manner.

Pretty sure KEE has a how to video disc that comes with the top. When I bought a 73 it came with a KEE top included in the box. I did not want the white top so I bought a crashed vert that had a brand new black top on it. I removed the whole frame and put on. I did not have to do the front but the rear is just difficult to reach and get to with a bad disc in your neck. 
I would not try to reverse any of the suggested assembly instructions. Pretty sure that when they put the tops on in the factory that the frames came to Ford with the top on and all they did was hook up the rear. They had assembly fixtures to assist them.
I have a couple 65 verts and the Ford manual is wrong on the install. They give you dimensions to make two assembly jigs to hold the roof bows in the correct position. They screwed to the hole what held the coat hanger hook. When you installed they were about an inch off. 
You should get the Ford install instructions for sure.
When I need new top I will for sure do it. You can order Stainless Steel staples from KEE tops also. If you use just hardware store staples they will rust very fast. Also your tack strips might need to be replaced. 
Doing the top is sort of like doing interior you just have to do in right order and work with it. 
My top has no wrinkles when it is up. When in the garage the top is always released from the clamps to let the seal stay soft and open. 
You also need to plan to have to do some clean up and repairs in the rain gutter that drains the rear. The sealer cracks and lets water get between the layers of the outer skin and the inner parts and make rust bubbles in the filler panel. I cleaned mine up added 3-M seam sealer where needed and brushed on POR to seal it up. You cannot see so I did not worry about paint color. The chrome in back sometimes is a bear to get off with rusted fasteners. The fasteners are snapped into the trip. 
The Top Well is another item you might want to replace when you are in there. There is also some Jute Padding on top of the wheel house on each to cushion the frame when down. 
Of course if you want to do a bang up job you might want to clean, sand and refinish the top frame and replace any nylon bushings. Change out the fluid in the pump and cylinders and check for leaks. 
One mistake people make when raising and lowering their top is to make the pump build pressure instead of just letting the top settle into the up or down position. Over the years I have had 8 convertibles including a VW bettle. The VW tells you in the owners manual that the top is going to leak, lol, 2004 model.
Mentioned on another post that under the stainless around the windshield there is a strip of closed cell foam that blocks water from getting in between stainless and the windshield frame. To get the side stainless off you have to unbolt the front fenders and move out so you can get to screw at the bottom. You can buff the stainless to look new. It gets really scratched up on the top header due to grit between seal and the stainless. Putting a top on is another of the SNOWBALL jobs just keeps growing. But if you take to trim shop they will put the top on and fix nothing else or charge you $100 and hour to fix easy stuff. All my pics of the vert are locked in crashed computer. I have posted some in past you might search for.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Following, so keep us update on your decision and progress! I'd like to do this myself, but not entirely sure I'd do a good job, in which case there would be no one but myself to yell at. Wink
I'm in need of a new top as well, as soon as my top frame is back together, and I am wondering if any of the tops are available with an (optional?) green tinted back glass?

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
Thank you for all the advice. After I remove the fabric, we plan on taking out the entire frame system and reconditioning it with primer and paint. This also includes the inner body where the tack strips are connected. From there, we'll put the whole thing back on and I'll photograph each step and let all know the problems and the accomplishments over several threads along the way. We plan on starting this project next month after the top fabric is delivered. i can still drive the car around without the top while its being redone. Hopefully we'll finish it by the end of June; depending if the wife lets me out in the garage.

Thanks again,

[Image: IMG-20200216-103247236.jpg]

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Robbins     check out     tops on line.com
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