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Convertible Rear Tack Strips
#1
I'm getting all of the convertible top parts together so a top installer won't have to waste time trying to figure out what goes where. (this is the pain of buying a completely disassembled car - you don't get the chance to see how things go together). When I matched up the three tack strips for the rear of the top, the center section overlaps the two side pieces. Can someone please assure me this is correct and that I don't have parts from another car? (Possible - I ended up with a bunch of '70 stuff as well as parts from an Oldsmobuick in a Ford box). None of the videos or photos show this and it looks odd. 

Here's a photo looking rearward at the passenger rear quarter: 

[Image: IMG_0114.jpg]

Are these supposed to overlap and bolts go through the two end holes on each piece?


Attached Files
.jpg   IMG_0114.jpg (Size: 102.15 KB / Downloads: 59)

My Stable:

-1973 Convertible Restomod (smoothed body, 5.0 HO motor, 24LB injectors, 75MM throttle body, E cam, Tremec TKO 5 speed, 4WDB and other fun stuff)
-2000 GT Convertible (Roush conversion)
-2004 Thoroughbred (the kind that poops)
-1962 Thunderbird
-1954 Mercury Monterey Sun Valley
  Reply
#2
(02-02-2018, 12:56 PM)Three Ponies Wrote: I'm getting all of the convertible top parts together so a top installer won't have to waste time trying to figure out what goes where. (this is the pain of buying a completely disassembled car - you don't get the chance to see how things go together). When I matched up the three tack strips for the rear of the top, the center section overlaps the two side pieces. Can someone please assure me this is correct and that I don't have parts from another car? (Possible - I ended up with a bunch of '70 stuff as well as parts from an Oldsmobuick in a Ford box). None of the videos or photos show this and it looks odd. 

Here's a photo looking rearward at the passenger rear quarter: 

[Image: IMG_0114.jpg]

Are these supposed to overlap and bolts go through the two end holes on each piece?

I have 5 convertibles and they do not overlap. I will get you some pictures in a bit of a set laying in the rain gutter so you can see them. I would get the installer to put new tack strips in the bows especially and make sure you ask for him to use stainless steel staples.
It looks like you might have coated rain gutter with POR which is good but also be sure to seal all the seams with seam sealer even the edges where the inner and outer metal shows on the top edge. This are is very prone to rust. Also make sure he gets the top material to take the water to the drain in the quarter panel. I never was a car with hose due to all of this getting wet and staying wet.
Look for some pics in couple hours I am headed to garage in a few.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#3
You are correct about the POR 15, sir. When the car was on the rotisserie, I absolutely coated it and used seam sealer everywhere. This car lived along the Chesapeake Bay and even the rust had rust. I’m not taking chances. 

Thanks in advance for the pix.

My Stable:

-1973 Convertible Restomod (smoothed body, 5.0 HO motor, 24LB injectors, 75MM throttle body, E cam, Tremec TKO 5 speed, 4WDB and other fun stuff)
-2000 GT Convertible (Roush conversion)
-2004 Thoroughbred (the kind that poops)
-1962 Thunderbird
-1954 Mercury Monterey Sun Valley
  Reply
#4
(02-02-2018, 04:00 PM)Three Ponies Wrote: You are correct about the POR 15, sir. When the car was on the rotisserie, I absolutely coated it and used seam sealer everywhere. This car lived along the Chesapeake Bay and even the rust had rust. I’m not taking chances. 

Thanks in advance for the pix.

Ok you can call me crazy for sure. I have only take three of these apart in last two years and put one top on and did not remember the overlap. It is overlapped as you can see in my pictures.
This car has not been blasted in the gutter area and is a Grand Rapids, Michigan car. This is the one I am parting out. I am going to cut the trunk filler out and the gutter it is totally rust free not a spec. So do not let northern cars scare you just look close. Rear floors are rust free and coming out also along with seat riser and the convertible panels under the floor. It does have rust in other areas and was a Ziebart car.
So your strips look correct. The bolts that hold the strips have weld nuts and they usually twist off and the trim shop will probably put lag bolts in for replacements if the nuts are missing. The small holes you see in the strips are where the self taping screws for the well liner were ran in. Have them put anti seize on the tack strip bolts going in if you still have the nuts and you might run a tap in to clean the threads also. Going in if you still have the nuts and you might run a tap in to clean the threads also.
The first four pics are a 72 the Grand Rapids car and the other is a 73 a Dearborn Mich, car also a ziebart car and not bad rusty.
[Image: 100_3169.jpg]

[Image: 100_3170.jpg]

[Image: 100_3171.jpg]

[Image: 100_3172.jpg]

[Image: 100_3173.jpg]

[Image: 100_3174.jpg]

[Image: 100_3175.jpg]


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#5
Thanks, you just saved me from hair puller #42.

I ended up tapping out the holes and put 5/16 stainless bolts with a steep pitch threads. If they don’t work, I have lags set to go.

I have a quarter window with a Rusty Jones sticker on it. The only thing that stuff did was make it a pain in the butt to get off of the car. Used a torch and scraper. When they applied it, they also clogged up every drain on it.

My Stable:

-1973 Convertible Restomod (smoothed body, 5.0 HO motor, 24LB injectors, 75MM throttle body, E cam, Tremec TKO 5 speed, 4WDB and other fun stuff)
-2000 GT Convertible (Roush conversion)
-2004 Thoroughbred (the kind that poops)
-1962 Thunderbird
-1954 Mercury Monterey Sun Valley
  Reply
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