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Convertible frame adjustment
#1
I can't seem to get this "sag" out of my top frame over the driver side front. I've tried adjusting the frame "east/west" by loosening the mounts at the rear quarter and have good alignment on both windshield posts. I've messed with the hook and pin on the driver pillar to no avail. I loosened the two nuts on top of this portion of the frame and then discovered in order for the frame to move fore and aft, you have to remove the large phillips head screw on the side, but... that hole is countersunk for the screw, so that does not appear to help. I've even removed the screw, loosened the bolts and moved the front section forward (photo below) but it doesn't seem to help much.   The top operates very smoothly, however, I can't seem to figure out this last adjustment. Does anyone else's top have this? Suggestions? I want to get this right before the fabric goes on (obviously). 

Any ideas? 

[Image: Frame_dip_2.jpg]

My Stable:

-1973 Convertible Restomod (smoothed body, 5.0 HO motor, 24LB injectors, 75MM throttle body, E cam, Tremec TKO 5 speed, 4WDB and other fun stuff)
-2000 GT Convertible (Roush conversion)
-2004 Thoroughbred (the kind that poops)
-1962 Thunderbird
-1954 Mercury Monterey Sun Valley
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#2
The is another post that covered the Sag above the door glass and how to make adjustments to eliminate it. I would start there.... https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-conv...rtible+top

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












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#3
Thanks! I thought I scoured the forums last night and obviously missed this thread. I know our tops are different than the early models and don’t have the same adjustment points on them. I overlooked the Allen screw adjustment and will try to find that tonight. It always helps to ask!

By the way, I’ve seen your convertible in person and the photos don’t do it justice. Great piece of history!

My Stable:

-1973 Convertible Restomod (smoothed body, 5.0 HO motor, 24LB injectors, 75MM throttle body, E cam, Tremec TKO 5 speed, 4WDB and other fun stuff)
-2000 GT Convertible (Roush conversion)
-2004 Thoroughbred (the kind that poops)
-1962 Thunderbird
-1954 Mercury Monterey Sun Valley
  Reply
#4
Wellll........ no allen bolt. I scoured the back frame to body brackets and yes, there are only 3 bolts that give you east/west adjustment and nothing for fore/aft. Then I remembered (thank you, beer) I bought a shop manual 4 years ago. Unfortunately, it has no diagrams and is almost useless. in order to get the clearance from the "top edge material and the door window line" you have to "loosen the number 2 bow to side rail bracket attachment and raise each side of the bow and then re tighten the nut to retain the adjustment".

Huh?

So the plan will be to loosen every nut and bolt on the driver side, prop up the frame and snug it all back down.

The kicker on the manual is this is all done with the fabric in place. so, it appears the fabric is part of the design to hold the frame in place.. Raise the bow, raise the side rail in theory. Famous last words....

My Stable:

-1973 Convertible Restomod (smoothed body, 5.0 HO motor, 24LB injectors, 75MM throttle body, E cam, Tremec TKO 5 speed, 4WDB and other fun stuff)
-2000 GT Convertible (Roush conversion)
-2004 Thoroughbred (the kind that poops)
-1962 Thunderbird
-1954 Mercury Monterey Sun Valley
  Reply
#5
I ventured over to stangnet.com to see if anyone there had an answer. I got the same - look for an allen bolt where the #2 bow meets the frame. I have none - they are all rivets. Even though this frame has what appears to have a Ford part number stamped on the fat arm, I'm becoming suspect of what is going on. A better photo of the #2 bow and bracket is below.

Could someone please take a photo of your bracket so I can compare?

Thanks in advance!
[Image: IMG_0133.jpg]

My Stable:

-1973 Convertible Restomod (smoothed body, 5.0 HO motor, 24LB injectors, 75MM throttle body, E cam, Tremec TKO 5 speed, 4WDB and other fun stuff)
-2000 GT Convertible (Roush conversion)
-2004 Thoroughbred (the kind that poops)
-1962 Thunderbird
-1954 Mercury Monterey Sun Valley
  Reply
#6
(02-17-2018, 07:52 AM)Three Ponies Wrote: I ventured over to stangnet.com to see if anyone there had an answer. I got the same - look for an allen bolt where the #2 bow meets the frame. I have none - they are all rivets. Even though this frame has what appears to have a Ford part number stamped on the fat arm, I'm becoming suspect of what is going on. A better photo of the #2 bow and bracket is below.

Could someone please take a photo of your bracket so I can compare?

Thanks in advance!
[Image: IMG_0133.jpg]

I lost track of this thread after my post. I looked thru my existing pics and have nothing to help you compare to your pic so will take a few picts today and post them. In the meantime here are a few that might help.

BTW: I appreciate the compliment. Just curious, where was it that you saw my car? I have two 73 verts, you are always welcome to stop by and look at the roof in person, if it would help.

Rich

[Image: 20160415_103452.jpg]

[Image: 20160402_152203.jpg]
Looks like an allen head bolt.
[Image: 20160403_073714.jpg]
Near the first bow
[Image: 20160402_152908.jpg]

[Image: 20160402_152211.jpg]

free image hosting api

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












  Reply
#7
(02-17-2018, 07:52 AM)Three Ponies Wrote: I ventured over to stangnet.com to see if anyone there had an answer. I got the same - look for an allen bolt where the #2 bow meets the frame. I have none - they are all rivets. Even though this frame has what appears to have a Ford part number stamped on the fat arm, I'm becoming suspect of what is going on. A better photo of the #2 bow and bracket is below.

Could someone please take a photo of your bracket so I can compare?

Thanks in advance!
[Image: IMG_0133.jpg]

I see you have a 1954 Mercury Sun Valley. I have a perfect showroom brochure for that car. It is quite big. I just saw it the other day when going though boxes of literature. I have hundreds of ads, pictures and manuals that I will be selling. PM if you are interested.
Dennis Carpenter still had some NOS tops for them a few years ago.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#8
Well, its hard to find adjustment points without the material removed and I did not have any sag to deal with. I did find what appears to be a hex adjustment screw stuck between the side rails at the hinge point. You can only see it when the roof is down. From what I can tell it serves no purpose other than to create separation between the two rails when the roof is fully up. You can see in the pic where it makes contact with the opposite side when the roof is up. Looks to me that when the screw is fully in it would separate the two side rails which may affect the hinge's resting position thereby creating more arch in the roof line. Check to see if you have the same screw and try adjusting it. Here is a pict of it.

[Image: 20180217_121226.jpg]

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












  Reply
#9
(02-17-2018, 12:53 PM)rackerm Wrote: Well, its hard to find adjustment points without the material removed and I did not have any sag to deal with. I did find what appears to be a hex adjustment screw stuck between the side rails at the hinge point. You can only see it when the roof is down. From what I can tell it serves no purpose other than to create separation between the two rails when the roof is fully up. You can see in the pic where it makes contact with the opposite side when the roof is up. Looks to me that when the screw is fully in it would separate the two side rails which may affect the hinge's resting position thereby creating more arch in the roof line. Check to see if you have the same screw and try adjusting it. Here is a pict of it.

[Image: 20180217_121226.jpg]
Excellent, thanks for the pictures. Tomorrow is Daytona Day, so I will be camped in the garage and am going to work through all of the photos. I'm starting to get a sinking feeling this is an aftermarket frame (were there any?!?!). Bottom line is... I have to do something. I have the material and the installer is ready to go.

As far as where I saw your car, I'm a little fuzzy. Beers and Gears? Sheridan Ford? Bellanca Air Field?

I see you are in Delaware (I've worked there for 25 years). I might take you up on the offer to view the top so I can ascertain what is different on this frame. Not sure what part of the state you live in, but I bounce between Dover and New Castle. This would be greatly appreciated.

My Stable:

-1973 Convertible Restomod (smoothed body, 5.0 HO motor, 24LB injectors, 75MM throttle body, E cam, Tremec TKO 5 speed, 4WDB and other fun stuff)
-2000 GT Convertible (Roush conversion)
-2004 Thoroughbred (the kind that poops)
-1962 Thunderbird
-1954 Mercury Monterey Sun Valley
  Reply
#10
(02-17-2018, 08:17 PM)Three Ponies Wrote:
(02-17-2018, 12:53 PM)rackerm Wrote: Well, its hard to find adjustment points without the material removed and I did not have any sag to deal with. I did find what appears to be a hex adjustment screw stuck between the side rails at the hinge point. You can only see it when the roof is down. From what I can tell it serves no purpose other than to create separation between the two rails when the roof is fully up. You can see in the pic where it makes contact with the opposite side when the roof is up. Looks to me that when the screw is fully in it would separate the two side rails which may affect the hinge's resting position thereby creating more arch in the roof line. Check to see if you have the same screw and try adjusting it. Here is a pict of it.

[Image: 20180217_121226.jpg]
Excellent, thanks for the pictures. Tomorrow is Daytona Day, so I will be camped in the garage and am going to work through all of the photos. I'm starting to get a sinking feeling this is an aftermarket frame (were there any?!?!). Bottom line is... I have to do something. I have the material and the installer is ready to go.

As far as where I saw your car, I'm a little fuzzy. Beers and Gears? Sheridan Ford? Bellanca Air Field?

I see you are in Delaware (I've worked there for 25 years). I might take you up on the offer to view the top so I can ascertain what is different on this frame. Not sure what part of the state you live in, but I bounce between Dover and New Castle. This would be greatly appreciated.

I am not aware of any repro roof frames for our card, but it's possible.
I live right off the first exit after the toll south of the rt 1 canal bridge. I'll pm you my cell phone number. Just give me a call if you decide to stop by.

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












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