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Compressor Question
#1
Is anyone familiar with the Charge Air compressors by Ingersoll Rand? I can pick up an 80 gal 2 stage 220V for $400 used from a guy about an hour from me. It is from 1988. Looks to be in very good condition and he says it works perfectly. Is it worth it? I am looking to upgrade my compressor for the new shop I put up as my old 20 gal craftsman is getting very tired and need something that can keep up with more tools. Thoughts. I don't want to break the bank on a new one.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#2
It sounds like a good deal to me. A new one is between $2 and $3 thousand. Make sure it's a 1 phase, unless you have 3 phase power available.

I would have the seller put some air in it, 10 or 15 psi, drain it into a container and check it for rust and oil.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
Anything that old will have some rust and oil in the tank. Not a big deal unless it is excessive. I do recommend using a filter like this at least though to protect your tools.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FMOMU?ref_=ams_ad_dp_ttl

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#4
That is exactly what I was planning to use for filter. I was planning to put one at each outlet on the wall as I will be plumbing the shop for the air lines.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
#5
Something else to consider when designing your system that is often overlooked is drip legs and drop legs. Below is from an article I found not long ago. It will protect your tools over the long run and is simple to do when plumbing it the first time.

Drop and Drip Legs Condensation can take place in air piping systems even though after-coolers, dryers, receivers and separators are installed. When air lines are exposed, for example, to low ambient temperatures, moisture can condense. This is why drip legs should be installed at all low points in the piping system. A drip leg is a pipe extending downward from the bottom of the air line to collect any condensation flow in the pipe. They should be the lowest points in the air line and at any point where the air line dips to go around an obstruction.  An automatic trap or drain valve should be installed on the bottom of the drip leg.

A drop leg is a pipe coming from the top, rather than the bottom, of the main air distribution line to feed air to an outlet for tools or an air-operated device. The drop leg is taken off the top of the main line so that condensation does not easily flow into the drop leg. It should be designed with the tool air outlet coming off the side of the drop leg rather than the bottom so condensation will collect below the tool outlet. A drain or trap should be installed at the very bottom. All drop legs throughout the system should be taken from the top of a tee with a wide sweep return elbow. This reduces the chance of a carryover of condensation from the main header or branch line to the outlet.


Pipe Slope 
All lines in the system main and branch lines should slope or pitch downward at least 1" per 100 feet or less in the direction of the air flow to a drain point – drop leg, receiver, etc. This will allow condensation to collect at the low points where it can be trapped and removed.
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#6
Good info. Thanks.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
#7
That sounds like a good size. I think mine is an Ingersol Rand from Lowe's, 220 volt, two stage, 80 gallon 175 Lbs. max. It keeps up with a glass bead cabinet and actually cuts off when I am blasting parts.  
I just got moved from old garage to new. Long story but I got mine for free when I did get it brand new.
They are loud I had outside at old garage but put inside this time might move back outside. Also hook up to the hard lines using a short piece of hose to absorb vibration at the compressor.
About the only thing I worry about for moisture is for painting and there are some cheap tricks you can do there to take the moisture out. I have used same DA sander for over 25 years with no moisture filters ever. I took it apart the other day and was like new inside. I put a few drops of air tool oil in when I use it. I do blow down the compressor tank each time I use it. The blast cabinet came with a separator so I use it there.
I did also plumb like the info posted have blow downs and come off top with connections.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#8
What did you end up using for the piping?

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
#9
I recently upgrade my compressor to a Quincy 240V - 1 phase 2 stage 60 gallon. Cost was $1300 shipped to me. Every component on it was made in USA. I posted a thread about it here:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-a-li...ge-upgrade

Regarding air piping, IMO, the proper way to do it is with cast iron piping. It's a bit of a PITA and can be a little costly, but it won't burst or crack and is impervious to any auto chemical it may come in contact with.

Here's a great basic layout from Sharpe, the spray gun people. Note the drops are taken off the TOP of the piping, and the outlets are on the sides, with a ball valve drain at the bottom of every drop.

http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf...ing+Layout


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#10
Wow Cast iron and all threaded fittings. PITA I think is an understatement. I was planning to use Hard L or Hard K copper and silver solder all of the fittings. We use L soft for linesets for AC systems and silver solder all the time with 410A which is under higher constant pressure than an compressed air system would ever be.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
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