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complete suspension restoration of my 72 mach 1
#1
This is a collection of photos documenting a complete suspension overhaul on a 72 mach 1. this was done about 3 years ago.

the photos Starting with removal of original suspension, move to engine bay restoration then finally reassembly and the rear suspension.

this car was not equipped with a competition rear suspension

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rear suspension
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as with any restoration there were problems, and some things had to be redone to make corrections.
  Reply
#2
How do you like those shocks?
  Reply
#3
(12-30-2010, 11:16 PM)Tnfastbk Wrote: How do you like those shocks?
No problems with them. I have a comfortable ride they have been on since 2007.
  Reply
#4
great job. i love the detailing work you did. it shows you really put a lot of effort and heart into your restoration.

keep up the good work!

happy new year
abudi
  Reply
#5
Cool work, what sway bar diameters did you go with?
Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#6
Great post and pictures!

Is the idler arm stock? When I replaced mine on my 71 conv it had a bend in it and was not straight.
  Reply
#7
(01-01-2011, 12:12 AM)f117rt Wrote: Great post and pictures!

Is the idler arm stock? When I replaced mine on my 71 conv it had a bend in it and was not straight.

yes the idler arm is stock.
the top part to the frame should be straight the lower part the arm has a slight S shape as shown in the photos.
the top half going into the pivot should be straight. these parts are easy to damage if you hit a curb with the car. the idler arm geometry should match the power steering arm and the center link should be parallel to the engine cradle. if you see the center link is bent back on one side that would show something struck the car and bent the idler or the power steering arm. this would effect the toe-in and out of the front tires. on one side the outer links would be longer to maintain toe-in and could effect the caster of the tire on the side that was bent.

the front sway bar i believe is 1 1/8"

i later removed the rear aftermarket sway bar i did not like its design
  Reply
#8
(01-01-2011, 01:45 AM)72HCODE Wrote:
(01-01-2011, 12:12 AM)f117rt Wrote: Great post and pictures!

Is the idler arm stock? When I replaced mine on my 71 conv it had a bend in it and was not straight.

yes the idler arm is stock.
the top part to the frame should be straight the lower part the arm has a slight S shape as shown in the photos.
the top half going into the pivot should be straight. these parts are easy to damage if you hit a curb with the car. the idler arm geometry should match the power steering arm and the center link should be parallel to the engine cradle. if you see the center link is bent back on one side that would show something struck the car and bent the idler or the power steering arm. this would effect the toe-in and out of the front tires. on one side the outer links would be longer to maintain toe-in and could effect the caster of the tire on the side that was bent.

the front sway bar i believe is 1 1/8"

i later removed the rear aftermarket sway bar i did not like its design

I just checked and you are absolutly correct! I guess "oldtimers" is beginning for me. I had the opposite problem I ordered a new idler and they sent me the bent one so I had to rebuild the stock "straight" one.

On another note, I need to repair my rusted fender apron under the battery tray. Do you think that it is easier to cut out the rusted area and weld in a patch or just replace the whole outer fender apron? Basically for a beginning welder is it easier to sill in the spot welds or patch it?
I bought a wire feed welder but have not used it yet. Also, I see thet the apron is spot welded onto the shock tower and the lower frame but can't tell if it's spot welded to the radiater frame also.
  Reply
#9
It would be easier to cut a patch in, there are a lot of spot welds you would have to cut out. the rule is keep as much original metal as you can. the reproduction stuff is always bent incorrectly and needs to be massaged to work. the reproduction metal will not have the re-enforcement plates either.

the battery tray has a re-enforcement plate where the tray attaches it helps support the weight of the battery. usually this is where all the rust is also.

best would be cut out the area and then cut the same area out of the re-production part and graft it in, you will need to lightly hammer the new piece to match the contour but it will be a lot easier then drilling out 100 spot welds and trying to align a repo part. once you have the patch in place it will be easy to dress the welds on both sides of the tray and then if wanted plug weld the re-enforcement plate back on if needed.
  Reply
#10
(01-01-2011, 12:41 PM)72HCODE Wrote: It would be easier to cut a patch in, there are a lot of spot welds you would have to cut out. the rule is keep as much original metal as you can. the reproduction stuff is always bent incorrectly and needs to be massaged to work. the reproduction metal will not have the re-enforcement plates either.

the battery tray has a re-enforcement plate where the tray attaches it helps support the weight of the battery. usually this is where all the rust is also.

best would be cut out the area and then cut the same area out of the re-production part and graft it in, you will need to lightly hammer the new piece to match the contour but it will be a lot easier then drilling out 100 spot welds and trying to align a repo part. once you have the patch in place it will be easy to dress the welds on both sides of the tray and then if wanted plug weld the re-enforcement plate back on if needed.

Thanks for the advise. When I graft the patch, Do I need to weld on both sides or is just from the inside all I need to do?

Thanks again!
  Reply


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