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coil
#1
I have a 73 mustang with a 351 Cleveland and have installed a flame thrower coil on it tonight and it won't start. the old coil was fine but was going try it. the only difference was my old coil was a 1.5 ohms and the new flame thrower was a 3 ohm. I now have put my old coil back on and it still won't start. coil checks good with my meter could I have burnt something up with the higher ohms coil????
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#2
Unlikely. Re-check your steps for installation for your old coil.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#3
tripled checked...oh, and nice rack.lol
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#4
Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.
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#5
I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .

judge;206836 Wrote:Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?
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#6
quizno;206951 Wrote:I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .

judge;206836 Wrote:Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

remove your positive wire from the coil and connect the coil directly to the positive post on the battery and try it.

do not leave it connected more than 5 minutes but i have left them connected for 30 minutes.

.
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#7
quizno;206951 Wrote:I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .

judge;206836 Wrote:Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?
That's not a valid test of voltage to the coil. Instead, get the car running and measure voltage at the + side of the coil. It should read a couple of volts below battery voltage (10.5-11.5V).

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

[Image: Flamicon2.jpg]


[Image: oldfart.png]
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#8
barnett468;206959 Wrote:
quizno;206951 Wrote:I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .

judge;206836 Wrote:Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

remove your positive wire from the coil and connect the coil directly to the positive post on the battery and try it.

do not leave it connected more than 5 minutes but i have left them connected for 30 minutes.

.

Do this. It is a good test. Be aware that the engine won't shut off until you disconnect the wire. You new coil may have an 'internal' resistor. Your car came with an external resistor coil and a special wire that reduces the voltage.

Does it seem to try to start but as soon as it seems to catch it dies when you turn the key from 'start' to 'run'?

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#9
barnett468;206959 Wrote:
quizno;206951 Wrote:I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .

judge;206836 Wrote:Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

remove your positive wire from the coil and connect the coil directly to the positive post on the battery and try it.

do not leave it connected more than 5 minutes but i have left them connected for 30 minutes.

.
no luck

will e;206963 Wrote:
barnett468;206959 Wrote:
quizno;206951 Wrote:I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .


I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

remove your positive wire from the coil and connect the coil directly to the positive post on the battery and try it.

do not leave it connected more than 5 minutes but i have left them connected for 30 minutes.

.

Do this. It is a good test. Be aware that the engine won't shut off until you disconnect the wire. You new coil may have an 'internal' resistor. Your car came with an external resistor coil and a special wire that reduces the voltage.

Does it seem to try to start but as soon as it seems to catch it dies when you turn the key from 'start' to 'run'?

just keeps turning over ....are we talking about hooking + side of the coil straight to the battery without the positive wire coming from the distributor connected to the coil?
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#10
yep

+ side of coil to + bat ....neg side of coil normal hook up.

If it starts it will not shut off till you unhook the tempoary + wire to the bat.

this is just to c if it will start by running battery voltage to the coil + side bypassing the normal ign wire.

to check the normal + coil wire from ign switch for voltage you must disconnect it from the coil.

I have a feeling your electronic points eliminator module is bad.

good luck
Paul

73 Grandé
351C 2v
Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5


Gasoline is for washing parts.
Alcohol is for drinking.
Nitomethane is for racing!



Work in Progress photos here:
Last Update: 4/23/16

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