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Clutch Linkage type
#1
I am just starting on my 72 Mach 1. I am replacing the automatic with a manual transmission in the future. My question is what type of clutch linkage do people prefer? Z-bar is old technology, Cable actuated or hydraulic throw out bearing. Still trying to decide whether to go with a 4 speed toploader or a TKO500 or TKO600. It will have a 500 hp Cleveland in the future. Mainly street driven with drag racing too.
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#2
Similar setup than mine. I went from auto to manual. I chose the TKO600. The 500 is rated to only 500 ft.lbs so you will be close with your engine. I went with a manual cable setup from Modern Driveline. It works well. I also did the clutch pedal bearing conversion from Scott Drake.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
[+] 1 user Likes tony-muscle's post
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#3
I converted mine from Auto to 4_speed.  Used all original components for a Z-bar setup.  Put a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch in it.  Not on the road yet, so I can't give any satisfaction comments.

kcmash
[+] 1 user Likes kcmash's post
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#4
I bought a hydro throwout from Summit for like 150, just needs a master cylinder and a little bit of fab on the clutch pedal and you're ready to rock. Just needs the input shaft collar shaved down 0.025".

Gas is for cleaning parts, alcohol is for drinkin, nitro is for racin
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#5
(03-05-2019, 03:18 PM)Studdley Wrote: I bought a hydro throwout from Summit for like 150, just needs a master cylinder and a little bit of fab on the clutch pedal and you're ready to rock. Just needs the input shaft collar shaved down 0.025".

I will look into that. I know the hydraulic kits are between $500 and $700 depending on the brand.
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#6
I did my T-5 swap about 8 years ago and built my own Z-bar and linkage. Used the modern driveline retrofit clutch pedal. It has been flawless for probably 50K miles. Can't beat the simplicity of mechanical linkages. I went mechanical due to many horror stories about hydraulic and I didn't want a cable winding it's way through the engine compartment.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#7
(03-06-2019, 07:22 PM)Bruce180vf Wrote:
(03-05-2019, 03:18 PM)Studdley Wrote: I bought a hydro throwout from Summit for like 150, just needs a master cylinder and a little bit of fab on the clutch pedal and you're ready to rock. Just needs the input shaft collar shaved down 0.025".

I will look into that. I know the hydraulic kits are between $500 and $700 depending on the brand.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-78136/overview/

Gas is for cleaning parts, alcohol is for drinkin, nitro is for racin
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