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Clutch linkage question
#1
Hello everyone, I am new to these forums.

I just purchased a 1972 Ford Mustang Mach 1 H-code, auto, unrestored original paint. 

I don't physically have the car yet which is why I have this question. I will be putting a Q-code, 4-speed drivetrain in it. Are the theaded holes for the frame side z-bar pivot already there? If not how would you add them? Yeah I realize I would need to drill them but adding the threaded insert behind the hole puzzles me. 

Also were the pedal hangars different between manual and automatic? I know they were the same for previous years.
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#2
Yes, the threaded inserts for the frame side bracket are present on all cars.

The pedal hanger for a manual trans car has the clutch pedal pivot bosses in place, an auto does not. Since you have a 4spd parts car, I'd rebuild the hangar assembly and swap the entire unit. You'll also need to swap the steering column to firewall seal for the manual trans version with the boot for the clutch pushrod. If your donor and you project have power vs non power, that's an easy fix with a pedal swap.


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#3
Thanks for the reply. That is a relief that the threaded inserts are there. I have a few more questions. 

Are the consoles different for an automatic vs. manual?

If I go with a diaphram style pressure plate, will I still need the clutch pedal assist spring on the pedal hanger? I think I heard somewhere you don't need that. 

Do you know anyone that can rebuild a Hurst shifter? Mine feels loose and kind of sloppy, if feels like it wants to fall out of gear. Manually shifting the trans by hand feels normal.
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#4
(07-08-2019, 04:54 PM)72\ Mach 1 Wrote: Thanks for the reply. That is a relief that the threaded inserts are there. I have a few more questions. 

Are the consoles different for an automatic vs. manual?

If I go with a diaphram style pressure plate, will I still need the clutch pedal assist spring on the pedal hanger? I think I heard somewhere you don't need that. 

Do you know anyone that can rebuild a Hurst shifter? Mine feels loose and kind of sloppy, if feels like it wants to fall out of gear. Manually shifting the trans by hand feels normal.
Consoles are the same, but I prefer the mini with my 4 speed. I'm on the shorter side and I found in a previous 72 I owned, I banged my elbow into the long console whenever I 'power shifted'

On my car I rebuilt all the clutch linkages by adding a ball bearing set-up to the clutch pedal shaft and I also installed oilite bronze bushings to all the other link connections to eliminate the plastic bushing. The pedal shaft kit I chose was from Mustang Steve, but Scott Drake make one as well. Don't have time right now, but I have some pics that might help, I'll post later.

If you go with a diaphragm clutch, you will need to carefully remove the over center spring. Look at Centerforce or Ram Clutches, but make sure it will handle your engine power. I have one on the shelf that was brand new in the car when I bought it, but absolutely nfg for my 4 V. i.e., don't buy cheap!!
Shifter rebuild; www.hurstshiftersonline.com Scotty did mine last winter for $250 US. Did a great job. Do NOT buy the aftermarket crap they sell as you'll need all the linkages as well and you'll be into a pile of money.

Talking of a pile of money, unless you already have the 4 speed, why not drop in a Tremek 5 speed with all modern cable or hydraulic clutch mechanism.
You'll also need a drive shaft. You got a ton of work, but doable.
All the best,
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#5
I am going with the 4-speed because I have a Q-code 4 speed parts car. As for a clutch I bought a $100 LuK clutch for my 70' Torino M-code 4 Speed and it handled the power just fine. Of course the engine was stock just like my Q-code engine. This is not related but how difficult would it be to swap over the staggered shock set up. The rear sway bar seems pretty straightforward, but when I scrap the car I'd hate to not utilize the staggered shock set up.
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#6
(07-08-2019, 09:42 PM)72\ Mach 1 Wrote: I am going with the 4-speed because I have a Q-code 4 speed parts car. As for a clutch I bought a $100 LuK clutch for my 70' Torino M-code 4 Speed and it handled the power just fine. Of course the engine was stock just like my Q-code engine. This is not related but how difficult would it be to swap over the staggered shock set up. The rear sway bar seems pretty straightforward, but when I scrap the car I'd hate to not utilize the staggered shock set up.
 Staggered shocks, not really sure myself, bottom end would be easy but the top connection may be a different panel. I'm sure someone with this knowledge will chime in.
Earlier, I missed your other post regarding you already have a donor car for parts. Yes take ALL you can!!
Best,
geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#7
The upper plate would need to be welded into your car. Not a big deal if you can weld. The rear sway bar has reinforcements or screw plates in the rails for the upper mounts, which are not present on a non-rear bar car. Easy to fix, but just wanted to make you aware.


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#8
72' Mach 1 Wrote:I am going with the 4-speed because I have a Q-code 4 speed parts car. As for a clutch I bought a $100 LuK clutch for my 70' Torino M-code 4 Speed and it handled the power just fine. Of course the engine was stock just like my Q-code engine. This is not related but how difficult would it be to swap over the staggered shock set up. The rear sway bar seems pretty straightforward, but when I scrap the car I'd hate to not utilize the staggered shock set up.
Ha. I put a cheap ass LUK clutch in mine and it only lasted about 1 year. I don't abuse my car but do some spirited driving and it was garbage. I went with a RAM this time and no complaints at all.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#9
(07-09-2019, 07:14 AM)73pony Wrote:
72\ Mach 1 Wrote:I am going with the 4-speed because I have a Q-code 4 speed parts car. As for a clutch I bought a $100 LuK clutch for my 70' Torino M-code 4 Speed and it handled the power just fine. Of course the engine was stock just like my Q-code engine. This is not related but how difficult would it be to swap over the staggered shock set up. The rear sway bar seems pretty straightforward, but when I scrap the car I'd hate to not utilize the staggered shock set up.
Ha. I put a cheap ass LUK clutch in mine and it only lasted about 1 year. I don't abuse my car but do some spirited driving and it was garbage. I went with a RAM this time and no complaints at all.
 Hmm! I wonder if that is the brand name for this unidentified clutch I took out of my M code shortly after I bought the car. Good only for getting the groceries! It's still taking up room on my shelf if anybody want it.
Geoff.

[Image: IMG-0051.jpg]

I learn something new every day!
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#10
Looks like the same one.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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