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Clutch cable, bearing, fork for T56 Magnum
#1
I'm most of the way though converting my 72 Fastback from auto to a T56 Magnum. What's left is I need to work out the clutch cable setup. I'll be going hydraulic at some point, but right now I'm going to keep it mechanical. I really just need to get this thing driving as cheaply as possible at this point then circle back around when I have some more cash. 

I swapped out the entire pedal assembly with a factory manual pedal setup, so that end is basically what it would have been if it came with a manual. In the interests of keeping this cheap for the moment, what I'd like to know is if there is a cable that will go from the stock pedals to the new clutch setup without a conversion kit?

This kit looks like where I want to be, but any chance a stock cable would work for this? If so, anyone know where to even get one as I'm not having luck chasing those down.

http://transmission.moderndriveline.com/...r-p157.htm

Next I need a clutch fork. MDL has this. Is there anything special about this or can i just get any fork for the same application newer Mustang?

http://transmission.moderndriveline.com/...6-p127.htm

And finally I need a throw out bearing but have no idea what I need. Appreciate any feedback on this one. 

Again I know that I should probably just suck it up and go hydraulic now, but this I need to get this wrapped up quickly and cheaply for the moment and revisit later.

Thanks for any advice.
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#2
Bite the bullet now, and get the hydraulic clutch setup. That solves any issues with trying to jerry-rig a cable, and finding the correct fork and bearing. With a hydraulic throw-out bearing you don't need a clutch fork. If your eventual plans included a hydraulic throw-out bearing that means you won't have to pull the transmission later to install it.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
I hear you and thanks for the feedback, but it doesn't look like that's in the cards at the moment. I have no problem with pulling the trans out again as we done that about 10 times now. Just need to get this thing driving now and cheaply as I have a lot of other things that need attention on the car and a marriage that needs to stay in tact   Smile
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#4
I know where you're coming from, even after being married 44 years I have to think about the same thing.

Just compare your total cost of trying to get a mechanical system installed versus the cost of the hydraulic system. They may not be as far apart as you think. Many have found that the cheap route winds up by costing more.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#5
I am using the cable from MDL together with the fork and T/O bearing they recommended for the TKO600 conversion I installed. The installation of the cable is easy. I wished the throw was a bit longer but thats up to the pedal and fork.

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        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#6
If you have a factory style clutch pedal, I do not think the MDL cable set up will work. They sell a pedal for that set up.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#7
(11-19-2018, 02:14 PM)73pony Wrote: If you have a factory style clutch pedal, I do not think the MDL cable set up will work. They sell a pedal for that set up.
As far as i understood the pedal they sell is the same design as the OEM. I am using their pedal because i had an automatic. It is a matter of calling and asking.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#8
Thanks, I am digging into this. The hardest part along with the cash was that I had set myself a drop dead date a couple months ago to have this thing driving by Thanksgiving. Frankly I thought I was going to be way ahead that, but unsurprisingly I suppose, things took way longer and got a lot more expensive than I had hoped. So I was really hoping to find something local from OEM parts that I could grab to get me rolling. Looks like I just need to suck it up as I won't be driving this thing on turkey day.
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#9
(11-19-2018, 09:22 PM)TheDude Wrote: Thanks, I am digging into this. The hardest part along with the cash was that I had set myself a drop dead date a couple months ago to have this thing driving by Thanksgiving. Frankly I thought I was going to be way ahead that, but unsurprisingly I suppose, things took way longer and got a lot more expensive than I had hoped. So I was really hoping to find something local from OEM parts that I could grab to get me rolling. Looks like I just need to suck it up as I won't be driving this thing on turkey day.
Welcome to our life. I feel your pain. Everyone of us has gone through this. I was supposed to be driving my car this year in July then turn into August and it was not until October. Drove it two weeks and then in the garage again for this winter projects. Everything takes much longer and more expensive than planned. Is part of working on these older cars. The key is to have patience and keep forging ahead.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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