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Clutch Assembly for Conversion
#1
We'll be swapping a T5 into our 72 project, and I wanted to seek opinions about what kind of clutch assembly I should look for. Should I be looking for an assembly from the same 71-73 period, a later assembly, or something different? Thanks.
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#2
What are you using for a bellhousing?
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#3
Not sure. Looking for opinions about the best options for this kind of swap. The car will be a slightly modified weekend cruiser in the 300hp range, 351w with a C4 originally. I appreciate any ideas you can share. We'll be busy with body work for months and months ahead, but I am trying to look ahead to start getting a plan together for what I'll need here. Thanks.
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#4
I am at the same stage. I did buy a retrofit clutch pedal already. For a bellhousing and trans I am going with a mid 90s 3.8 V-6 trans. The input and bell are about 3/4" longer than a standard T-5. Being kinda long legged I figure the extra length will come in handy. These transmissions still have the same torque rating as the V-8 trans. My understanding is it uses a 164 tooth flywheel. For a clutch my plan is to use a diaphragm.
Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#5
Thanks, Jeff. Where did you find the retrofit assembly? I found a complete pedal assembly from a 60s Mustang that I can have nearly for free, but don't want to bother with it if it's not going to fit or won't be the best solution for us. On another note, our family will also be looking for all the legroom we can find. I plan to relocate my seat risers slightly back when I do the floor pan, to squeeze out some extra room.
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#6
It is from Modern Driveline, I bought it off Ebay from a guy in Chicago. Hooray for legroom, I used some 1/4" flat stock and moved the seat back 3" on the tracks.
Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#7
(11-23-2010, 07:17 PM)72Mike Wrote: Not sure. Looking for opinions about the best options for this kind of swap. The car will be a slightly modified weekend cruiser in the 300hp range, 351w with a C4 originally. I appreciate any ideas you can share. We'll be busy with body work for months and months ahead, but I am trying to look ahead to start getting a plan together for what I'll need here. Thanks.

The "best" way to do the swap is to procure a 71-3 Mustang or Cougar pedal support with the clutch and brake pedals, hardware, etc. Pedal type (power or manual) is irrelevent as you can modify your original to fit. The pedal support can be pricey, but the rest of the stock linkage parts are fairly easy to come by and will run about the same cost as an aftermarket retrofit. IIRC, both rods are repop'd. The fork, equalizer and it's mounting brackets will need to be sourced used or NOS.



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#8
Small block forks are available, bigblock forks are much harder to come by. IIRC the retrofit pedal was about $125.00 from modern. I paid much less. I'm going to look at how it fits this winter. Rods and the equalizer bar can be fabricated.
Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#9
(11-24-2010, 08:44 PM)droptop73 Wrote: Small block forks are available, bigblock forks are much harder to come by. IIRC the retrofit pedal was about $125.00 from modern. I paid much less. I'm going to look at how it fits this winter. Rods and the equalizer bar can be fabricated.

Who has repop 71-3 SB forks? I wasn't aware they were being done.

How does the retrofit pedal attach to the support? The auto pedal supports don't have the bushing mounts for the clutch pedal shaft, did Modern reproduce and include those with the pedal?

I'll agree that the rod and equalizer could be fabricated, if someone has the means and the ability. If he's lacking in either, then used or NOS parts are the way to go.
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#10
I realize this was left for dead in November, but I have questions and input!

Hopefully since you're dreaming of a far off time, you haven't jumped in and spent a bunch of money yet!

I too am working on the conversion from C4 to T5 and was lucky enough to get my hands on the stock pedal assembly for front discs and a clutch out of a 1971. As far as I can tell there isn't much difference between the pedal support that came in the car (4 wheel drums, C4) and the one I picked up, other than of course the holes for the clutch pedal to pivot. I can take pictures soon if you'd like.

My questions are more to do with linking the clutch pedal to the fork...

I got a complete T5 from a late 80s 5.0 - bellhousing, clutch, fork, even a fancy Hurst short shifter - but didn't think about linking the pedal to the fork. It would be pretty useful to know how much distance the end of the fork has to move to fully disengage the trans from the engine, maybe somebody has that number off hand?

I was mostly planning to use the same cable setup as the stock 5.0s did, and managed to acquire the plastic radius off the top of a fox's clutch pedal. Does it matter exactly how far from the pivot point the radius is mounted? I want to be able to completely depress the clutch pedal without breaking anything (obviously), so I'm guessing it should be close to the same distance as it was stock, right?

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
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