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Chains, engine hoist...
#11
Just bought this a couple months ago, nicest built load leveler (short of a Snap On or Mac) that I've ever seen. Yes, it's Chinese Sad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XS...UTF8&psc=1

Engine hoist you posted looks to be the same one that I've had for twenty years. The fold up design is a real space saver. I've had zero issues with it, other than having to replace some casters when a friend borrowed it and sent if out the back of his truck on the highway...


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#12
I remember this day well... I removed my 429 myself and everything went fine. To clarify, due to space limitations I imposed on myself Shootself , i could not extend the arm's/leg's as much as i should have, so I had to keep a close eye on the weight distribution... I bought this hoist a number of year's ago and like other's here have stated, nice to have when the time comes that you need one. It folds up nicely and I put it away in the corner. I really hope I don't have to remove another 429 setup in the future...


[Image: 429cj_Motor_7_Transmission_removed2_3.jpg]
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#13
(09-20-2018, 12:24 PM)Fabrice Wrote: As the engine hoists I can rent near my home are on the weak and small side for my 429.
as I also want to get the trans out as well I saw in total days per time, I'd be just bits cheaper than buying a safe one.

So was looking at this baby..
https://www.vocor.nl/heffen-en-hijsen/15...00124.html

its dutch: it says 
The lifting arm is adjustable from 1050 to 1590mm (41.3 to 62.6 inch )
I see on pict on most extended the capacity goes down to 1 ton, which is enough
and arm can go up to 2,36 meter high (92.91 inch). 
With the right chain length that also should do it I think.


However this thing isn't delivered with chains or anything but a hook.
found a place to buy in all kinds
https://www.manutan.nl/nl/mnl/stalen-ket...t-11200-kg
and stuffs to secure the chain
https://www.manutan.nl/nl/mnl/harpsluiti...ot-2000-kg

I have not yet found here some adapter to change the angle load (too expensive if comes from the states). So for now its all about doing it with chains.
I would like to know if you guys have one, how should the connection chains to the hook (if you use chains of course)
The plan being to have the engine on chain at the four corners, I also wonder what is smarter: 4 chains and using the prev link a way to adjust their length
or if I should better take 2 longer chains and secure them in the middle at the hook?

Also, as the plan is to get the trans out too, as I don't see how i could keep the car safely 1/2 meter higher without investing in other lift alternatives.
If you have done it, tips welcome.

EDIT: found one here, I was just not searching using the right term..
https://www.gereedschapbestellen.nl/werk...aar-450-kg

IRIK trading (look also for the load leveller):

https://www.iriktrading.com/catalog/prod...eel-2-ton/
https://www.iriktrading.com/werkplaats-k...eller.html


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#14
(09-20-2018, 04:47 PM)c9zx Wrote: What headers do you have that require the engine to be suspended by the hoist to install them? 

Searched and found they are Hookers.


These are the same, 
tho the ones I have are coated with some whitish layer, very rough to the touch. can't find them listed. Prolly an ancient coating method that isn't done anymore.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/h.../make/ford

They look and are pretty simple, but in practice precision isn't really there. The small tubes need to align to fit both the heads plane and be twisted to be inserted into the main collector. The main collector must be installed first once it can go around the cross member. I have one loose (havent managed to get the other one loose yet) and even outside the car, its not that easy to get them aligned. So in a restricted space, its a real pita. with capital P. Needs be done in the last bits before the engine rest on mounts to have more space and some play. You would expect you could just bolt the 2 small ones and once the engine is in place, just push up the collector and be done. That would be the expected in a world where Hooker would have experienced the pain of the install and mod the designs accordingly. In the real world, at least for the ones I have, the 2 tubes are not cut paralel where they meet, so there is no way to do this.

I would also prefer to buy new ones vs restore them (blasting+coating), but the price they ask for is ridiculous. Same quality for a 351c that are not even 200. Add coating/shipment/taxes and it becomes unsane for what they are.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#15
This is just my personal observations after working on cars since 1962. I would never remove or install the engine and transmission together, WHY? It is easy to remove the transmission from under the car and also install. That takes all the headaches out of the process. When they put them in the factory they had lifts made just for that engine and had less than two minutes to install.
An A frame with a chain fall is the safest way to install an engine. I watched some experts on TV drop an engine when installing with a hydraulic lift. Yes I have one and use it often.
I install the engine then I have studs cut off that I put in the bell housing and then slide the transmission on.
Why put it all together and struggle with getting it all to clear. Same for headers. Leave them off and put on after engine is in. You will do much less damage to any paint.
An engine balance is great for getting just the right angle.
Why make a simple thing complicated?
Not a race.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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