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Carb recommendations?
My motor is a .030 over Q code.  I think it has a mild cam.  It does have an edelbrock torque intake.  I've got a 650 dbl pmp Holley on it now however it is not in good shape even after a rebuild.  Its running very rich and the AF mixture screws do very little when adjusted.  Right now they are a full turn out on both sides.  It is shooting fuel up from the throat (Not needle and seat) every time I open the throttle.  Its like the fuel from the shooters is hitting the choke plate and deflecting up in the air.  There is also play in some of the linkage.  I am thinking about giving up on this carb and putting something else on it.  I really don't want to spend $400 + on a new carb.  There is a 750 edelbrock (1407) reman on ebay for $270 + $20 S&H.  Are there any other suggestions???

Anyone have a good carb they want to get rid of?

1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

I'm not a fan of edelbrock carbs at all. Just my opinion. I have heard good things about the Summit branded carbs as an economical option. Here are two 750's below the $400 mark.

Vacuum Secondary

Mechanical Secondary

Quick Fuel Brawler series are also good bang for the buck.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason

[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
I actually AM an Edelbrock fan... however, I think a 750 might too much carb for a 351C.  I have a 351C-2V with an Edelbrock 1406 on top of a Performer intake and a mild/mid cam from CompCams (see 'My Garage' for engine specs), and it's just about right.  

Having said that, you can always re-jet to back off the flow a bit if needed.  Don't forget to read the instructions when installing - a lot of people (including my pal who was a 40+ year master mechanic) just toss 'em on and fiddle with the adjustments until it all 'feels' right.  After he did all that, it actually did run really well, but I read the instructions, and made some more adjustments, which made it run even better (he was impressed as well, and realized that he'd just learned a little bit more about his favorite carbs as well).

I like 'em because they're very simple, and only have one main body gasket at the top which ensures it will not leak all over the place unless something is severely wrong (unlike just about every Holley I've ever encountered).  That's not a bash against Holley just to start a flame war, either... just my observations, which are not very numerous, to be honest.  If you prefer Holleys and can make them work and be happy with them, more power to you - go with what works for you.


[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
WELL you maybe hell bent on REPLACING .....but (not being a Edelbrock Fan -nothing to due with an action bay Vic 30 years ago) I watch this video https://youtu.be/VR1u25p3QZw

Now I know Holley Carbs - and just dealt with an accelerator pump issues ...so my effort on you behalf was to learn IF could be same as my issue.

WHEN I SEE "although recently rebuilt" - I always think WHAT was done wrong/missed or incorrectly! At first I thought could this be a case of the NOZZLES being turned?? Watching the video - I would question if the check ball was an issue.

Again - you seem to be talking yourself into a carb - but waffle with the don't want to spend the money. Personally I would take about and LOOK at it again. (that is free)

P.S. MY issue was the opposite (not enough fuel despite) new diaphragm and clean nozzles. After having the bowl off a number of times I FINALLY disassembled the bowl parts them self and found a small hard deposit IN THE exit passage.
Having said what I said about the Edelbrocks, I think Mark is onto something there.  I'd recommend hitting up as many Holley guys as you can find and make sure your 650 DP's really not worth saving before pulling the trigger on something 'new.'


[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
Personally, I don't like the look  of the Edelbrook as it looks like it's on 'sideways' I have no experience with how well they work so no comment there.
I chose the Holley 80670 670cfm 4V vac secondary's, but I had issue with it running very rich at idle. I took the car to a tuning specialist and he drilled  a 3/32" hole in each primary throttle plate and that helped the problem no end as well as resetting the transfer slots which I had set way too far open trying to get that extra air. I also recurved my distributor. Now it runs about as good as it can get.... for now.
I am looking at swapping that out for a Quick Fuel HR 735 as it is more tunable on each corner. I often feel my engine needs just a bit more air. Before I do make up my mind, I am going to borrow a friends air/fuel ratio meter just to see exactly where it's really at to take the guess work out. Perhaps I'll just stick with the Holley 670.
Just my thought on it,

 I learn something new every day!
Check out Browler which is Holley's economy brand.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
Unless you know who "remanufactured" the eBay carburetor I wouldn't even consider it as a possibility. Someone may have just dunked it in a bucket of carburetor cleaner and called it good.

I agree with what Mark said.

Idle air adjustment problems is usually a sign of plugged passages. It likely just needs a proper rebuild.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
(04-17-2019, 11:52 AM)Don C Wrote: Unless you know who "remanufactured" the eBay carburetor I wouldn't even consider it as a possibility. Someone may have just dunked it in a bucket of carburetor cleaner and called it good.

I agree with what Mark said.

Idle air adjustment problems is usually a sign of plugged passages. It likely just needs a proper rebuild.

 Totally agree with what both you and Mark said. I didn't see Mark's reply as I was adding my 2 cents worth at the time.
 The only comment on the DP is why chose a DP on a street car, aren't they harder on gas and harder to tune the secondary's? 

 The car I have had a Holley 670 when I bought it, but it ran like total crap and I could not get it to idle. That's when I just replaced it with a custom built Holley 650 4V.
 Eventually, I bought a new 670 which is still on the car. On thorough inspection of the original carb, it was found that the right side idle passage was over drilled for the idle mixture screw, so any adjustment to that screw had zero effect. It was a factory defect apparently. All I really needed was to replace the primary metering block. Could have save several hundred dollars!
My point here now is, find out why before you replace.

 I learn something new every day!
i like the edelbrock's.. i feel they are easier to work on and easier to adjust. i hate that bowl adjustment on the holley... when i got my stang it had a holley on it.. it came off right away and got a used edelbrock and rebuilt it and have not touched it in 2 yrs... holley is bagged up on the shelf.
the worst part is holley is my last name also... but no money from them..
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