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Car in Paint, pics soon
#1
Well the 71 is in paint shop hood, deck lid, doors fenders valences all on hangers waiting final block and ready for color. Body blocked and ready for final prime today. Had to buy more primer etc, Sikkens materials now at $2800. Using solvent based high voc paint not avail in CA. Buying in Reno.
Pix 10 days r so.
How long after painting for gasout with solvent base for final cut and buff?
Help appreciated
Jen
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#2
Great progress, I bet you are really excited to see the finished product! Can't wait to see the pics.



Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony

Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06


[Image: 20180127_082009.jpg]

upload a photo on internet




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#3
Check with the paint (clear) manufacturer on the buffing. The clear should have recommended time frame on the can, or online.
Should be ready by the time you get it home, if doing it yourself.
It's nothing like the enamel or lacquer days. Urethane "dries" with the activator reaction, as compared to outgassing of those old paints.

Most modern paints (base/clear) are made with cycle time in mind, as in get it in and out of the bodyshop as fast as possible.
Thanks to the insurance companies...

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#4
will it be "baked" after it is painted? Are you going to color sand and buff yourselves or have the shop do it ? I cant wait to see the pics that is exciting.
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#5
All medium and especially high solids 2 Pak clears need a decent bake time and temp to cure out properly. One hour bake time min, and a panel temp, not booth temp of 65-70 degrees C is what you're chasing.

Don't even think about any denibing,wet sanding, cutting and polishing for a minimum of ONE WEEK off the gun and oven. After baking,leaving the freshly painted car in the sun for a week,can assist the curing process as well. The longer the better. 2paks will still want to shrink as they cure out after the baking process, and mild cases of sinkback can occur and cause problems.Still see this happen all the time in my spraypainting trade. Some major brands are better or worse for this.That depends on their paint chemistry to start with.

Remember, the more coats of clear applied, the more time is needed for proper curing.Number of coats vary between medium and high solids clears and of course paint companies as well.Check with your company specs on that score. Talk to your paint shop.

GregSmile

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
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#6
This thread is one that I've been waiting for! Can hardly wait to see the pics!

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
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#7
Austin Vert;120636 Wrote:All medium and especially high solids 2 Pak clears need a decent bake time and temp to cure out properly. One hour bake time min, and a panel temp, not booth temp of 65-70 degrees C is what you're chasing.

Don't even think about any denibing,wet sanding, cutting and polishing for a minimum of ONE WEEK off the gun and oven. After baking,leaving the freshly painted car in the sun for a week,can assist the curing process as well. The longer the better. 2paks will still want to shrink as they cure out after the baking process, and mild cases of sinkback can occur and cause problems.Still see this happen all the time in my spraypainting trade. Some major brands are better or worse for this.That depends on their paint chemistry to start with.

Remember, the more coats of clear applied, the more time is needed for proper curing.Number of coats vary between medium and high solids clears and of course paint companies as well.Check with your company specs on that score. Talk to your paint shop.

GregSmile

Your are correct sir, But i must tell you a story. I used to work in a production shop where we repainted brand new dodge trucks to Plum crazy, Grabber Orange, "something" yellow, and Lime green. Key word production. We used all dupont chroma pemere stuff. Anyway your post "Don't even think about any denibing,wet sanding, cutting and polishing for a minimum of ONE WEEK off the gun and oven." Made me grin. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES AM I TELLING YOU NOW YOU ARE WRONG OR STATING THIS IS THE RIGHT WAY.You are correct BUT I use to have to start cutting and buffing right out of the oven on these trucks. They were always in a rush to get the the production line. I used to cut and buff 3 cabs and 3 beds per evening. I was the second shift supervisor and detailer. so I had 4 other guys working that shift. 2 preppers and 2 painters and myself. we had to get a certain amount of work done each evening or it was hell to pay. I can still remember cutting and buffing on paint that was way too soft. Lets put it this way, I have a very unusual set of buffing and color sanding skills which should never have been learned. The only drawback to letting it set is that it gets as hard as a rock but that just makes it harder to burn through, but harder to sand. What am I going to do when I paint my Mach let it set in the sun and wait about a week most likely.

Here is a link that "q" turned me onto that i thought was a good read its called the perfect paint job by southern polyurethanes.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/per...0paint.htm

Thanks for the post and brining back not so fond memories of buffing on soft paint greg Smile

Dennis
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#8
There are a few tricks to avoid issues with die back shrinking etc, finish the body work(filler) with a minimum of 150 grit 220 is better..
The primer should be baked on then allowed at least a week or 2 to sit before blocking..When we did my Camaro we let the primer sit for 3 months before blocking..There are no sanding scratches die backs what so ever on the car 2 years later...I'm going to do the Mustang the same way..As far as buffing Clear.. your painter can check the manufacturers recommendations,

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#9
Thanks everyone for the great input. Sikkens tech data is decidedly tilted toward production. Short recommendation, but I will shoot for no less than 1 week where it will sit in the Sacramento sun and bake. I'm paying good money bought high end sikkens paint and didn't quibble on anything but finish we will be fussy as hell. I can tell u with blocked to 800 and high build sikkens hardened primer in white it felt like glass. Was taught to check for cheap repaints by feeling edge of doors hood trunk all edges for anything but slick. Then when its painted cut buffed it will do the read the newspaper check. Any area that isn't crisp and clean ain't okay. The car is a bright yellow so won't show as much as black, but by god its gonna be right.

PS I retire this week, so no more PIA to distract me.
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#10
Hi Jen,

Just wanted to wish you all the best on the paint job and hope it all goes well for you.I wonder how much peel in the paint finish you want to end up with.You can go from full heavy peel off the gun to a flat no peel full gloss finish. You have the choice on that score as well. I guess that will come down to your own personal preference. Also, all the very, very best for your upcoming retirement. I hope you will find plenty to keep you busy and at the same time, enjoy yourself and relax too.

Hi Q,

That's a very good point about letting the primer/putties cure out as well for a good hard substrate for the top coats to perform.Hope you're keeping well, and not working too hard.

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for your feedback and interesting story on the production line. I feel sorry for you having to go through that hard work and pressure as you did back then. I also was forced to cut corners and sacrifice quality
a lot in the crash repair game over the years. Sadly.in a lot of cases, it comes down to money first and quality second. The biggest looser is Joe public for not getting the jobs and repairs done properly. Also, i used to work with those colors back in the seventies when i was painting back then. The names and colors were way out wern't they in those good old days.

It would be great if i could to have a coffee with you and catch up on some old memories together, but alas, we live in differant countries, and it can't be done.

So all the best for now,

GregSmile

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
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