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can u sand too much
#1
So I am sitting here trying to fix my trans linkage and I figured to take a break and work on my body. I had the rear patch panels welded on for about two years and I did not do them I am not happy with the welded but I took my sanders and started shaving them down. Know as u will see in the pic the top piece is the factory picece amd the bottom is the weld job. Now I am trying to simply smooth the spot so I can start building the body back to right.


The issue I am having is that I don't know if I should keep going or just make it somewhat smooth. I don't want to leave paint in those small areas and have problems later here are some pics

There are spots in the second one where I fill leaving it even though easier now will cause more issues later


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1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#2
rentascout;60866 Wrote:So I am sitting here trying to fix my trans linkage and I figured to take a break and work on my body. I had the rear patch panels welded on for about two years and I did not do them I am not happy with the welded but I took my sanders and started shaving them down. Know as u will see in the pic the top piece is the factory picece amd the bottom is the weld job. Now I am trying to simply smooth the spot so I can start building the body back to right.


The issue I am having is that I don't know if I should keep going or just make it somewhat smooth. I don't want to leave paint in those small areas and have problems later here are some pics

There are spots in the second one where I fill leaving it even though easier now will cause more issues later
Really need to see a better picture looking head on..But from what I can see in your pictures those areas need a bunch more work before filler..They will bubble up down the road if you put filler on the way they are..If your sending the car out for paint..Your really not doing yourself any good since most painters..body shops..will not guarantee their paint work on top of body work they didn't do. .& most top notch painters..shops will not put their name to body work that doesn't meet their standards..Which may make it harder to find someone willing to paint the car the way you bring it to them..So really your actually better off to just put the car in bare metal for them..Thats where you can save some bucks..You doing body work that then has to be stripped down or redone before paint is going to cost more..But if you are painting it then it doesn't matter.


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#3
Nah I hear u brother I just didn't want to take them down too much or do any damage. I'll put another pic up. I was afraid of sanding down and possibly breaking the welds
I hope this is better Q.
When I had my quarter welded my brother sanded for me but said he left a little bite and built it up. Should I go and sand that down and fix those as well? I just don't want problems in the future

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#4
rentascout;60885 Wrote:Nah I hear u brother I just didn't want to take them down too much or do any damage. I'll put another pic up. I was afraid of sanding down and possibly breaking the welds
I hope this is better Q.
When I had my quarter welded my brother sanded for me but said he left a little bite and built it up. Should I go and sand that down and fix those as well? I just don't want problems in the future
RS ..no pic ..But anyway if your painting the car then this is a great learning experience..One way to tell if your on the right track is to use a contour gauge..(lowes or depot under $10.00) You can use to see shape.Depending on the type of weld that was done on the patch panel(butt vs overlap) Will dictate how the welds are ground down..Check my 2 vids for more info...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKe-Ep4XphM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISfhsQ_wwXA

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#5
I will check them out and they were overlap
I hope this works but ill get that soon an[/i]d get going.
My pictures suck tonight sorry just know that it us not smooth and I will watch ur Gordon. I think I will be taking the mud off genders to make it right


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1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#6
Q after watching your video I feel like I need to go to the local medical center, I have a good respirator but I have not used it at all. I hate watching quality videos really makes you feel like a jack.... Thanks though I will be picking up that gauge today and think that I will take the mud off the fenders to make sure it is ground down.

I am having some problems however, due to the guy who welded it made slot of errors now that I am looking at it. I know I would not have done better, so I am not dogging him but I have a feeling that it will take a lot of time to get them back to right. I love time and have no problems putting times into it.

The issue I see is that taking this to a body shop especially around here they are going to use the cheapest filler and won't take there time. I know it sounds like I am just talking trash but it's bad. how about I send you a check for 13K and I will hand delivery it to you and you hit me back when you are done and I will get it moved back, At least I know ti will be done right

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#7
Definately have to use a GOOD respirator. I believe the original paint was lead-based.

Steve



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#8
Oh yes but I took that off a long time ago, and still didn't use the right one probably explains the chest problems

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#9
Okay Q I ripped off the nine pounds of evercoat off that fender so you guys could see how far the welds were sanded down. I think a little work could be done but before I sand down the other side I will see what is said

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1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#10
I'll be watching for the response also... I don't think I've seen a repair quite like this, usually they section in an entire lower quarter... at least, the brave guys do! Thanks for the posts...
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