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Can the oil Pan be removed w/ engine in car?
#1
can the oil pan be removed with the engine still in the car?
its my stock 302, I was thinking of removing the pan and cleaning it up and painting it.
and maybe while I'm at it, clean up or replace the oil pump.

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Iyman
1972 Mustang convertible run_horse  
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#2
I'm going to go out on a limb and say 'No.' You'll [at the very least] need to raise and support the engine to gain enough space between the bottom of the engine and cross-member to slip the oil pan out/in - that might involve disconnecting the exhaust, some wiring, fuel lines, and unhooking the engine mounts.. The transmission tunnel may not provide enough room for the engine/transmission to pivot up high enough to make that happen - which you might need to separate the engine from the tranny. But at that point, you're pretty much halfway there to pulling it out anyway.

That's a WAG based on my observations in dropping in the engine and transmission over a year-and-a-half ago. Wink Big Grin

Eric

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#3
302's are easy, 351's are not so fun but still doable.

Drain the oil

unbolt and pull the dipstick tube

Unbolt the 22 oil pan bolts

Pop the pan loose and slide it forward.

You may have to rotate the crank to get a counter weight out of the way.

Fish it down and out the front

351's you have to take the motor mounts loose and lift the engine as high as it will go.

Drop the pan onto the cross member.

Reach around/over/into the pan and take take the oil pump off.

Slide the pan with the oil pump laying it forward and out.

Have fun with this and I hope it is warm were you are at.

Paul
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#4
so,
I will try to pull the pan off with out taking the engine out, and see how it goes.
but first off, I need it to warm up a little outside, its in the teens.

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Iyman
1972 Mustang convertible run_horse  
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#5
Paul of MO;157115 Wrote:302's are easy, 351's are not so fun but still doable.

Drain the oil

unbolt and pull the dipstick tube

Unbolt the 22 oil pan bolts

Pop the pan loose and slide it forward.

You may have to rotate the crank to get a counter weight out of the way.

Fish it down and out the front

351's you have to take the motor mounts loose and lift the engine as high as it will go.

Drop the pan onto the cross member.

Reach around/over/into the pan and take take the oil pump off.

Slide the pan with the oil pump laying it forward and out.

Have fun with this and I hope it is warm were you are at.

Paul

Thanks for that! thumb

I wasn't sure about the 302 - mine's a 351C.

Good luck with it, Iyman!

Eric

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#6
I just did this on my 66. Put it up on the lift, drained oil. Removed cross-member, removed starter motor. Dropped idler arm where it attaches to the side rails, and dropped the steering stuff. Removed all of the bolts, and the oil pan dropped right down without any problems.

I had to replace the oil pan seal and fix a rear main seal issue. The car had leaked a bit of oil since I got it (1998) on the inspection cover. When we removed the bottom main rear bearing, the seal was not off-set with the bearing blocks and wasn't sealed with RTV at the block. No wonder it leaked. When we removed the seal, we found it had been glued to the bottom bearing block.

Did the reverse to install...took about 2 hours with 2 people.

Let me check your shorts!
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#7
This is not easy unless you have a hoist. You have to raise the engine up at least 3 inches to get the pan out. I did this about 4 months ago. On my 70 Mustang it was easy because the crossmember unbolts but on the 72 it does not.

You have to remove the engine mount bolts and figure out a way to raise her up. I don't have an engine hoist so I loosened the trans mount bolts, put 2x4 under the pan to raise her up, then I braced the engine with wood. I had to do the reverse to get her back down. I'm theoretically against raising an engine by the pan but I was in a pinch at the time and had to do it.

Again, unless you have a hoist this is a huge pain.

-Former 70 & 72 Mustang Owner.
-69 Torino GT, Formal Roof, 351W, Edelbrock 600 cfm, Edelbrock 351W Performer RPM intake, headers, AOD trans, dual flowmasters w/H pipe, Pertronix II Billet, 3.5 TRACLOC g/r, 15" Magnum 500s, 100A alt, aluminum radiator, electric fan, Pro-car seats, mini-starter...owned since Dec 13.
-70 Mach 1, 351W, Edelbrock E-Street EFI, VHX instrument cluster, Hooker headers, dual flowmasters, Pertronix II, 15" Magnum 500s, 150A alt, aluminum radiator, dual electric fans, Pro-car seats, mini-starter
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#8
I'm at the point in my life now, after having done the lift and space thing.. I'll just yard the motor out. It's more work up front, but far less frustration at re-assembly.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.
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#9
Totalled;157169 Wrote:I'm at the point in my life now, after having done the lift and space thing.. I'll just yard the motor out. It's more work up front, but far less frustration at re-assembly.

Sounds all to familiar. I have been asked by multiple people why I am pulling and replacing my whole engine when I could just pull the heads and fix the problems with my motor. Many don't seemt o understand how much of a pain in the ass it can be to pull cast heads off a car like ours. Then possibly find out that the motor needs to come out anyway which is amazingly easy compared to modern vehicles.
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#10
Totalled;157169 Wrote:I'm at the point in my life now, after having done the lift and space thing.. I'll just yard the motor out. It's more work up front, but far less frustration at re-assembly.

+1 I can have my motor and trans out in less than 2hrs. I have become VERY good at it over the last couple years. I have had my 351c out atleast 8-10 times in the past 4 years. Please don't ask why.... long story Smile

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

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