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Can someone tell me what this does?
Hi guys,

I saw this part on ebay and noticed that I also have this under my dash. The description calls it a 1973 FORD MUSTANG ENGINE GOVERNOR WIRING HARNESS and says it is for California cars with A/C and emissions requirements.

Thank You

[Image: y193q.jpg]

1972 Q Code Convertible
Also known as the doofilator. It regulates the scroll- motion of the tremi-arms to the oscillations of the Finnegan-pins.

Or something like that...Smile
I'd just be guessing, but with that caveat here goes

If your car has an idle solenoid it might kick up the idle when the AC is turned on, cut the AC off under full throttle and perhaps do something with the EGR valve as well?

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
cali cars had more regulations on them with the start of C.A.R.B

there were spark delays, RPM sensors, heat sensors, SMOG pumps,ambient temperature switches, exhaust solenoids. in fact there was a constant change of equipment appearing on the cars late 72 into 74.

all the extra equipment did was try to reduce different exhaust gases mostly at idle. This was just before catylic converters.

mostly the equipment recycled exhuast gases, and retarded engine timing depending on the internal and external conditions of the engine.

retarded timing(besides less horsepower) increases exhaust manifold temperature. decreased NOx and CO, the EGR then recycled some of this super heated exhaust back into the engine to be burned again reducing exhaust gas further.

but you needed a balance, because you could over heat the engine, and it depended on the internal heat level of the engine and the ambient temperature.
if it was 50 degrees out, the cold air would force the engine to go Rich, thus the sensors and solenoids leaned the engine down, if it was 90 out the engine was lean, but you had to cut back on the emissions to keep the engine going.

it was all a balance Pre-microchip using analog methods to make a carb engine run as clean as possible at the sacrifice of horsepower. Internally the engines had changes made as well. 71 is considered pre emissions, 72 is the start and 73 is when the boat sank.
this is part of the reason you saw HP down big from 71 to 73 with similar engine configurations. it is why people bought a car then Ripped all that stuff off if they could get away with it to bring performance back.

many times the systems were disabled as parts failed and replacements were unable to be sourced. Smog pumps would go out never to be used again so all the extra sensors had to be removed as they would interfere with engine operation. EGRs would clog up and after market exhausts wouldn't support them.

really only concourse cars are concerned with that wire harness. as long as you are legally in emissions standards with the state you are in then you are fine.

some states REQUIRE all emissions equipment to be functional as original equipped. Arizona is insane on this.. if your car was born a V2 then it must remain a V2 forever type stuff. Other states don't care at all and the safety check makes sure your horn works that is about it. Thus in some states people keep all the original equipment the car had when smog and inspection time rolls round you unbolt all the add ons and return the car to stock to pass the test then go back and take it all back off.

there are some emissions equipment that is not a detriment, the PCV, DVCV, Fuel vapor control, vacuum advance, these help reduce emissions but also help the engine run better.

getting back to 73 emissions there were speed sensors, that would kick emissions devices off over a certain RPM again the concern at the time was the amount of pollution with a car at idle, smog caused by traffic jams, City driving under 25 mph was really bad in places. this is where Smog alert days came from. you have 20,000 cars idling on the I10 in a traffic jam and it was honestly pretty awful.
My Finnegan pins are shot. got any extra's?
Finnegan-pins are obsolete now, just replace them with some pre-famulated amulite duractance rods.
Can't, I don't have an adjustable Kuenuter valve on my bumper oil regulator.
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