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Can someone explain the different rear setups?
#1
Because apparently what i thought i knew, was wrong.

Ok so theres the 3/4 link, pull/push rod.

Ok so whats the main difference (besides the obvious) between these and explain how they work/function. and please add any if i missed (which im sure i did)

Also axle locator: watts link, panhard rod.

and then theres the cantilever, which i believe is just the setup of the coilovers.

I know Maiers uses the Pull/push rod/cantilever, TCP has a 4 link and a pull? rod cantilever.

So just rear suspension 101. different types of rear setups, and best function (IE type of racings) etc etc. I would greatly appreciate some explanations. (I am sure others will too)

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
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#2
Generalizing an extremely complicated subject. Both of these should use heim joints because the axle articulation can destroy poly bushings and rubber bushings defeat the purpose in my experience. Unfortunately heims will also cause some road noise/vibration to be transferred.

4 Link Drag Racing
Parallel or Triangulated but has 2 bars to take shock load of launch ie axle twist, but has some bind in the design
Some will argue the 4 bars offer more stability........
Can be designed so it doesn't require an axle locator (triangulated)

3 Link Road Racing
Single upper bar that reduces bind and allows good axle articulation
Requires an axle locator

But even that is only somewhat true. Either design will easily out perform a leaf sprung suspension though when built and adjusted properly. Both also allow a spring to be customized to vehicle weight for better ride/performance. I have 3 sets for my truck that are easily swapped on my ridetech coilovers. A supplemental air bag can be added for additional weight.


Panhard bar is simple and effective but allows a small amount of lateral movement in the axle due to its design. It can also have negative effects on the vehicle roll center depending on placement. That can be minimized by making it as long and low as possible.

Watts link will perfectly center the axle at all times but is also alot more complicated. Heavier and has more failure points than the panhard bar.


Cantilevers I have seen most often in the air bag crowd who want to slam a vehicle. They are a way of off setting the spring device to give more room. So it doesn't have to be located in between the axle and the frame. A perfect example is the designs used by Air Bagit or KP Components 4 Link Kits.


Yes I over generalized some info here but to keep it simple without going overboard on suspension design it works.
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#3
X2 Mdan... It's how the system is designed that makes the difference. The number of "links" (attachment points) is not the real issue. It's how the system is designed to work. A drag suspension is designed to have anti squat to plant the tires. A rod race suspension is designed to have some anti squat but also needs anti dive for hard braking.

My best advice is to invest some time and energy to researching suspension theory. There are many ways to accomplish performance handling. If you're just getting into what it means, I will recommend Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams. It will lead you through the intracies of suspension design and theories and into how all the angles and settings interact. It really is good information. It's not specific to Mustangs but all suspension does work based on the same concepts. Big Grin

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#4
droptop73;159668 Wrote:X2 Mdan... It's how the system is designed that makes the difference. The number of "links" (attachment points) is not the real issue. It's how the system is designed to work. A drag suspension is designed to have anti squat to plant the tires. A rod race suspension is designed to have some anti squat but also needs anti dive for hard braking.

My best advice is to invest some time and energy to researching suspension theory. There are many ways to accomplish performance handling. If you're just getting into what it means, I will recommend Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams. It will lead you through the intracies of suspension design and theories and into how all the angles and settings interact. It really is good information. It's not specific to Mustangs but all suspension does work based on the same concepts. Big Grin

HMMM second you recommend that book. haha i think i will def need to get it.

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
  Reply
#5
It is a great resource for anyone wanting to learn about performance handling. It covers modifying stock suspension, designing a "clean sheet" system and circle track suspensions. The basic principles are applicable to any type of vehicle.

Some of what Mr Adams recommends is directly opposite of most Mustang conventional wiasom related to handling but it makes sense. I learn more every time I read it.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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