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C6 conversion to Toploader 4 speed
#1
Hello,

 Since last weekend I think about rebuild my car with a Toploader instead of the C6

I understand that it's not a simple thing to do, but as the car is almost naked, it's a good opportunity to do that. Also I prefer to drive with a manual transmission, this is personnal, everyone has his own preferency.


I have a Toploader, from a 67 Mustang (RUG M), 28 splines, but with the 14" tail housing, instead of the 17", so the axle shaft I have should be too short... maybe...


What is needed:


-clutch

-clutch bell,

-fork

-shifter

-transmission mount

-transmission cross member

-28 splines yoke

-clutch and brake pedals...

-flywheel, bolts...

Thank you for your comment, based on your experience or ideas,

Manu

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#2
RUG-M is a '67 390 wide ratio transmission, which has a longer shorter input shaft than a small block toploader. You'll need to swap that out. The particular tailhousing you have will determine which shifter installation kit you need to order, post a pic of the driver's side. Since the input swap necessitates dropping the cluster gear, you'll want to add a rebuild kit to your list.

You'll want a pedal support assembly with the clutch & brake pedals that is the same year of your car if possible. There were minor changes to the steering column bracketry. Power or manual doesn't matter, as you can use your existing pedal by trimming down the pad.

To add to your list:

speedometer cable & gear
pilot bearing
clutch fork boot
shifter boot
Z-bar with bushings, clips, mounts, springs and rods
reverse light harness and switch

Image of the 71-73 clutch linkage from the MPC below, also attached as PDF for easy printing.

[Image: 71-73clutch.jpg]


Attached Files
.pdf   71-73clutch.pdf (Size: 212.76 KB / Downloads: 6)


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#3
You can use the pedal assembly of an auto car. You just need to get a clutch pedal bearing kit and the pedal itself.
Edit: you can cut your brake pedal to fit the smaller pad used with the clutch. I have an extra pad i think if you want it.
For the bearing kit i used Scott Drake's.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#4
(05-20-2019, 10:31 AM)tony-muscle Wrote: You can use the pedal assembly of an auto car. You just need to get a clutch pedal bearing kit and the pedal itself.


Very true, I always forget those are available. A cable conversion is also a possibility. 

http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical...ersion.htm


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#5
(05-20-2019, 10:37 AM)Hemikiller Wrote:
(05-20-2019, 10:31 AM)tony-muscle Wrote: You can use the pedal assembly of an auto car. You just need to get a clutch pedal bearing kit and the pedal itself.


Very true, I always forget those are available. A cable conversion is also a possibility. 

http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical...ersion.htm
Correct. I installed MD's cable kit and their pedal as well. Not that difficult after you get the pedal assembly out. I removed the steering column and drivers seat when removing the pedals.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#6
That means that I don't need the Z bar if I choose to use the cable kit?
Well sounds good, I will find a Toploader with the 17" tail housing if that can be more simple for me.

Here is pics from this 67 Toploader, and you can see as well the input shaft from the Toploader I rebuilt for the Mach 1 Sprint from Mexico, with 17" tail housing, I can see the difference, but the input looks shorter on the RUG-M than the other one...
[Image: IMG-20190520-201110.jpg]

[Image: IMG-20190520-201124.jpg]

[Image: Img-180827191246300-1.jpg]

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
  Reply
#7
(05-21-2019, 01:27 AM)Manu Mach1 Wrote: That means that I don't need the Z bar if I choose to use the cable kit?

Correct.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#8
(05-21-2019, 01:27 AM)Manu Mach1 Wrote: That means that I don't need the Z bar if I choose to use the cable kit?
Well sounds good, I will find a Toploader with the 17" tail housing if that can be more simple for me.

Here is pics from this 67 Toploader, and you can see as well the input shaft from the Toploader I rebuilt for the Mach 1 Sprint from Mexico, with 17" tail housing, I can see the difference, but the input looks shorter on the RUG-M than the other one...

I got it bass-ackwards. The 390 input is shorter than the small block unit in the pilot bearing length. There is an available extended pilot bushing, but they really don't work well. 

Need a pic of the tailhousing, so we can figure out the shifter arrangement. The Galaxy 17" tail might work, but you would have at tough time with the shifter. I think the costs associated with that and locating the tailhousing and output shaft would be far more than a driveshaft.


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#9
I will go with the cable, but it is ok with a Toploader and factory 351C bell housing?
Then if it's more easy with a Toploader with 17" tail housing, I will find one. Don't know if it's possible to extend a drive shaft, but sure it's possible to shortened it. Plus if it's too complicate for the shifter as well...

[Image: IMG-20190520-201117.jpg]

mettre une image en ligne

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
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#10
OK, that's what Hurst refers to as the "433" Toploader and you'll use the parts for the 67-69 390/428 Mustangs. The shifter comes out in the same location so it'll work fine in a 71-73.

Shifter - 391-3180
Install kit - 373-5587

Set the shifter up with it bolted to an engine stand outside the car so it'll be all adjusted when you install it.

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vinta...stion.html


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