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Break in additive
#1
1st Change oil after breakin oil change and used about 2qts during break in. Should I still use break in additive with each oil change for best protection or not

Alan L

[Image: 1_30_09_13_10_12_32.png]
Alan L
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#2
2 quarts in how any miles?

I would use a break-in oil like Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs for the first couple of changes.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#3
droptop73;63593 Wrote:2 quarts in how any miles?

I would use a break-in oil like Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs for the first couple of changes.

1800miles and used Lucas additive

[Image: 1_30_09_13_10_12_32.png]
Alan L
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#4
That seems like a fairly high amount of usage.

Try a good break-in oil rather than the additive. I've not heard of good results with the additives.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#5
For my '71 Cleveland, I used Brad Penn breakin oil as recommended (at initial fire-up, run 30 minutes at 2500 RPM, varying just a bit, then drain & change to "regular" oil with a new filter). For my oil, I use Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil, as it has all the zinc & phosphorous oils used to have. This oil is relatively cheap (compared to Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn oil), pretty available in just about any weight (straight or multi) you need, and you never need to spend extra on additives that may or may not work correctly. Never used another excess drop now in 2500+ miles.

I do question the use of 2 quarts during breakin. That sounds like either:

a) a big puddle on the floor of the garage, and/or all over your tranny
b) a massive cloud of blue smoke everywhere you drove
c) a measuring mistake (remember, there's about a quart in the oil filter, for example)
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#6
Sorry this has nothing to do with break in but I thought it very interesting regarding filters , worth a read.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/me...+Purolator
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#7
mus72;63852 Wrote:Sorry this has nothing to do with break in but I thought it very interesting regarding filters , worth a read.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/me...+Purolator

HMMMMMM think I will stick with my motorcraft FL-1A and change when I am supposed to. But interesting info
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#8
No offence to the post above but be VERY careful running a filter without a bypass. The purpose is to allow oil flow when the filter gets clogged. Bypass valve opening does not have anything to do with oil pressure, the pressure inside the filter element is the same as outside the element. When the filter is clean there is little pressure difference between the "inside" and "outside" of the filter. When the filter collects enough debris the bypass valve begins to open when, due to restriction, the pressure differential from the outside to the inside of the element exceeds the spring pressure of the bypass valve. When the filter gets completely plugged the filter goes into "full bypass" and allows unfiltered oil to flow, afterall unfiltered oil is WAY better than no oil which is what you'd have without a bypass valve. Hopefully none of us would go that long without replacing the filter.

Sorry for the thread-jack.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#9
droptop hit it on the head the bypass is there so if the filter gets clogged or cant keep up giving the engine the oil it needs.
i personally would run oil with zinc in it for a new engine rebuild for the life of the engine. i have seen many cams get ruined after not using additive or zinc oil after the break in period. during break in the pressure on a new cam is great without the extra lube on the lobes you can ruin a engine quick. i wanted to add on a older engine with some miles on it i havent had any issues with just regular oil without zinc but you can always play it safe and use it. i work at a shop we restore pre war cars and after the switch of zinc being removed we were using additives in all the cars. but since we have stopped unless the owner wants it. we haven't had any engine issues with the new oil but doesnt mean it cant happen. play it safe keep with zinc if it was mineSmile
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#10





Post: #8RE: Break in additive

No offence to the post above but be VERY careful running a filter without a bypass.
Oh no offence taken (I like to hear peoples views thats how you learn) I don't want to hijack this thread just thought I would throw it out there to see what you thought I have to admit to being in awe of those guy's in that forum .
I thought the purpose of changing the filter was the benefit of the anti drain back thus keeping more oil in the engine for start up.
Regarding oil I would run a good deisel oil trucks and tractors run much longer than cars on it .
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