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Brakes
#1
Thought I'd share some wisdom from a good friend who is long gone. Taught me how to gravity bleed a brake system when I was in my early 20's(yeah that long ago). This works whether changing just a wheel cylinder, or the entire system like I did today.
Simple idea really. Heavier fluid (brake fluid) will always take over the space of a lighter fluid (air).
After bench bleeding the master cylinder and installing it. Simply start at the closest bleeder to the MC (left front). Be sure the reseviour is entirely full and leave the lid off. DO NOT LET THE RESEVIOUR GET TOO LOW!!!. Open the bleeder 1 full turn and try to have your drip hose run slightly up hill off the bleeder. When I see 1-1 1/2 inches of fluid up hill with no air bubbles I move to the RF, then LR and then RR. Put the cover back on, let it set over night and the next morning with the help of a friend, do the "push the pedal and hold, open bleeder. Close bleeder. Let the pedal up.
I've done several cars this way and usually only bleed each wheel 1 time. Many times with no air found. Almost forgot. Wastes about 1/4 of a Bud light can being dripped into of lost fluid. Say 3-4 ounces.
           

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Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#2
Cool tip Mark,thanks for sharing.Details though are unclear,you mentioned the 3-4 oz's wasted in bud lite can,but how many full BUDS for the person doing the work?Big Grin

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460 , Edelbrock Performer carb. + intake , 204 / 214 cam , Pertronix Flamethrower 2 billet dizzy + coil , Crites long tubes , C6 .









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#3
Gonna start this tonight, if I can find some tubing. Thanks Mark!!!

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"I prayed to God he would change Johnny but his plan was to change me"

Gene Stallings
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#4
I have done it for a dry system but once you see fluid I bleed them normal otherwise you will still have air in the lines...works like a P trap if you have a high bend and it will pull air in. I know this from experience.
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#5
Cool tip! I'll try that next time I mess with brakes.

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My Mustangs:
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