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Brake problem on the 93 fox body
#1
Wrench 
So my son cane home and said his driver's side front brake is grinding. The pads had about 3/4th a pad remaining a few months ago when we flushed & changed out the fluid in the system.

We pulled the wheel & saw that the outside pad was gone with the metal backing plate now grinding into the rotor. The inside pad has about 1/4" left. The passenger side looked normal.

Ive seen this happen with both sides at the sam etime but what would cause one side to do this? Also who makes good brake pads for a normal driver type car?

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
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#2
possibly stuck or rusted caliper. I had this issue with a Mitsubishi. the caliper floats on pins that have rubber boots covering them. i would take the caliper off and take the brake pads off and try to move the caliper body in and out on the pins. they might have rust pits in them preventing the caliper from floating correctly, so when the piston pushes on the pad the pins get stuck preventing the back side pads from fully engaging and pushing all the brake power on the top pad, leading to premature brake wear.

I replaced my guide pins, new boots and used Brake high temp grease on the guide pins to keep rust out and keep the caliper floating.
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#3
Hawk Brake pads

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/?Click=123...7AodXHVqNQ
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#4
72HCODE;40761 Wrote:possibly stuck or rusted caliper. I had this issue with a Mitsubishi. the caliper floats on pins that have rubber boots covering them. i would take the caliper off and take the brake pads off and try to move the caliper body in and out on the pins. they might have rust pits in them preventing the caliper from floating correctly, so when the piston pushes on the pad the pins get stuck preventing the back side pads from fully engaging and pushing all the brake power on the top pad, leading to premature brake wear.

I replaced my guide pins, new boots and used Brake high temp grease on the guide pins to keep rust out and keep the caliper floating.
+1 on 72Hcodes post. It could also be the caliper piston itself not moving properly in the bore. If you end up diagnosing the caliper as being bad, I would suggest changing both calipers. My 90 LX made it to 100K but then had a caliper and wheel cylinder failure within a 1000 miles of each other. Chuck

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#5
Not uncommon for them not to release and wear out the pads. Ask him if it was pulling to that side while driving.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#6
Tnfastbk;40764 Wrote:Hawk Brake pads

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/?Click=123...7AodXHVqNQ

+1 I have hawk HPS pads on my dodge shadow and they are really nice. They have good stopping power and realativly low dust and only squeak when they are ice cold.

Jayson
[Image: 36319488731_8f2a376549_z.jpg]
73 Mach 1 Mustang
89 Dodge Shadow ES
94 Jeep Wrangler

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#7
Consider rotors, pads, pins and calipers to the job that they do.
While you're at it, inspect the flex and hard lines also.

New stuff is cheap at 10X the co$t.
I just went through my '90's system this summer.

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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