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Brake Distribution
#1
Was trying to put new brake lines on my 71 Mach 1 when I noticed that my Brake Warning Light (the green plug) was broken. Is it worth rebuilding my distribution valve, or should I just buy a new one? How difficult is it, I saw another post where someone posted a link to buy a rebuild kit. thanks!




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#2
They're easy to rebuild, but I don't believe the rebuild kit comes with a new switch. The switches are available separately.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
(10-17-2018, 03:35 PM)Don C Wrote: They're eady to rebuild, but I don't believe the rebuild kit comes with a new switch. The switches are available separately.
Thanks Don,  yeah I'm ordering the switch but was wondering if this should be rebuilt since the switch was broken inside of it. The metal pin was bent, so I don't know if there's some damage on the inside, and would be worth rebuilding since going to be taking it out to clean it up before putting on the new brake lines.
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#4
If you have it out might as well rebuild it.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


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#5
It was probably my post you saw about the rebuild kit.

It worked, though the brakes are a shadow of what they once were. I still think this is my entire problem with my brakes. As soon as I get some funny money, I'm getting a complete new Proportioning valve.
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#6
(10-18-2018, 02:35 PM)jowens1126 Wrote: It was probably my post you saw about the rebuild kit.  

It worked, though the brakes are a shadow of what they once were.  I still think this is my entire problem with my brakes.  As soon as I get some funny money, I'm getting a complete new Proportioning valve.
 I'm looking at the tabs I have opened on the subject, don't think I saw your post, would you mind posting the link so I can peruse ? I went in thinking putting in new brake lines would be simple, but ran into some issues, also I noticed  my new Brake Master Cylinder has rust starting to grow on it. So I'm really pondering how to best go about protecting all the new shiny stuff I'm putting into my car.
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#7
Master cylinders didn't come painted because the fluid eats paint, I painted mine cast grey and now its starting to yellow from the fluid? I tried rebuilding my distribution block only to find my brake lines would not seal, the little nipples inside were too damaged. I would recommend a new one to avoid headaches later. Just my 2 cents!! Good luck, brakes are a pain in the A#$!! PS: even my new one leaked at the copper gasket at the top fitting.
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#8
(10-19-2018, 07:29 AM)Omie01 Wrote: Master cylinders didn't come painted because the fluid eats paint, I painted mine cast grey and now its starting to yellow from the fluid? I tried rebuilding my distribution block only to find my brake lines would not seal, the little nipples inside were too damaged. I would recommend a new one to avoid headaches later. Just my 2 cents!! Good luck, brakes are a pain in the A#$!! PS: even my new one leaked at the copper gasket at the top fitting.
This was brand new and only been on the car for a few months, is this normal?


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#9
Like I said, I did paint mine so I'm not sure how fast they rust, just depends on weather and moisture content. Mine hasn't rusted like that in over 3 years so maybe it does pay to paint it!!
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#10
yes they rust really quickly.  Mine looked like that 2 weeks after I changed it.  The best thing to do is paint or powder coat before mounting.  However, brake fluid dissolves most all paint.  Epoxy might be immune but don't quote me on that one.  If you want it to look nice, you will have to do a aftermarket master made of bling aluminum.

As far as my Distribution block goes, I had a nice stiff brake pedal after I bled the brakes.  Then one day a couple of weeks later I suddenly lost all pedal.  I had to pump it to stop at all, and it took a long time.  Pretty scary moment actually.  4 wheel manual brakes aren't any good to start with but when the pedal hits the floor its an Oh Shit moment.

So I looked all over and couldn't find any leaks.  So I took it to my mechanic and had them check it over.  My drums were all needing machining, and I had them replace all 4 brake cylinders since I had them already on my list and parts in hand.  Still it had no pedal.  Finally they narrowed it down to the distribution valve.  I got a rebuild kit from NPD and that pretty much solved the no brake issue, however the pedal is like 1/3 the stiffness it was prior to the failure.  

The other day I was watching phantom works and they  had a similar problem with a Ford they were working on.  They replaced the distribution block with a proportional valve and the brakes returned to normal operation.  It was something with the pin that activated the brake light switch.  So I think that is also whats happening to mine.  The kit fixed enough of the leak to keep it working, but theres still a pressure leak even though I see no fluid anywhere.  Really odd. I will probably end up replacing all the lines as well.
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