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Body work
#1
help I really need some help from the forum.
As I keep saying I'm a mechanic not a body guy. My stepdad tagged me at 13 with the comment "If you can't hit it with a sledge hammer he shouldn't be touching it" All because he sent me out to put the snow tires on our 62 Chrysler and not knowing about the rear left thread lug nuts he was pretty upset as he came running out the door as I broke the third one and said there was something wrong with the studs.
The front fenders must have been replaced at some time because I see no holes but a lot of surface rust on the wheel side. Since doc says I shouldn't be laying over a fender, I'll be putting the fenders and hood on last in I figure about 2 years.
How should I proceed sanding and priming these for storage. I'm determined to do my own body work and I'm not afraid to ask when I don't know something.
       

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Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#2
markmel;32020 Wrote:help I really need some help from the forum.
As I keep saying I'm a mechanic not a body guy. My stepdad tagged me at 13 with the comment "If you can't hit it with a sledge hammer he shouldn't be touching it" All because he sent me out to put the snow tires on our 62 Chrysler and not knowing about the rear left thread lug nuts he was pretty upset as he came running out the door as I broke the third one and said there was something wrong with the studs.
The front fenders must have been replaced at some time because I see no holes but a lot of surface rust on the wheel side. Since doc says I shouldn't be laying over a fender, I'll be putting the fenders and hood on last in I figure about 2 years.
How should I proceed sanding and priming these for storage. I'm determined to do my own body work and I'm not afraid to ask when I don't know something.
They need to be media blasted I see more than "surface rust" there's no way to get the nooks & cranny's & pitting unless you media blast. But if it's only surface rust then use a d.a. (orbital sander) with 80 grit to remove it & either way then wipe down with metal blast http://www.rustbullet.com/productcart/pc...tegory=127 Then epoxy primer like i did in this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4PVATPY94o


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#3
Qcode351mach;32024 Wrote:
markmel;32020 Wrote:help I really need some help from the forum.
As I keep saying I'm a mechanic not a body guy. My stepdad tagged me at 13 with the comment "If you can't hit it with a sledge hammer he shouldn't be touching it" All because he sent me out to put the snow tires on our 62 Chrysler and not knowing about the rear left thread lug nuts he was pretty upset as he came running out the door as I broke the third one and said there was something wrong with the studs.
The front fenders must have been replaced at some time because I see no holes but a lot of surface rust on the wheel side. Since doc says I shouldn't be laying over a fender, I'll be putting the fenders and hood on last in I figure about 2 years.
How should I proceed sanding and priming these for storage. I'm determined to do my own body work and I'm not afraid to ask when I don't know something.
They need to be media blasted I see more than "surface rust" there's no way to get the nooks & cranny's & pitting unless you media blast. But if it's only surface rust then use a d.a. (orbital sander) with 80 grit to remove it & either way then wipe down with metal blast http://www.rustbullet.com/productcart/pc...tegory=127 Then epoxy primer like i did in this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4PVATPY94o
When you say media blast, are we talking sand or glass bead? BTW great video. Wish it was just that easy


[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#4
markmel;32027 Wrote:When you say media blast, are we talking sand or glass bead? BTW great video. Wish it was just that easy
Thanks !
Media means ...glass, walnut shells, or oxide..The media is the abrasive used. Most pro's don't use sand these day's I would look for a place local that does dry stripping..Should be around $150 ish to do both fenders .

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#5
Many blasting companies offer soda blasting now. Most paint companies will not warranty paint if panels have been soda blasted unless you follow their special treatment procedures. I too am not a body guy though I am learning. I was fortunate enough to take the Sunchaser Tools Metal shrinking class a couple of years ago before a forum war turned the owner against hobbyists. I will also be working on the body over the course of several years and have been researching the best way to prep and store parts long term. I will be DA sanding the body and parts as clean as possible then spot blasting any bad or pitted areas. I was originally going to use something like Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, POR 15 or Rust Bullet before priming on the worst areas. I was told not to, but I'll get to that later. I was turned off by the cost of Dupont, PPG and a few other premium brands. I have used PCL's Polyprimer in my industry (car audio) for many years to finish custom dash parts and speaker enclosures. After speaking to one of their "product specialists" I was left with the feeling it was an off brand and I might regret using their process. Then I found SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc) and spoke to the owner about my projects. He recommended sanding/derusting the metal as best you can. Next use their Waterborne Wax and Grease Remover to lift off any impurities and let it dry for 30 minutes. Next comes 2 coats of Epoxy primer sprayed 30 minutes apart. Wait 24 hours then spray a coat or two of their 2K High build primer. Primers (epoxy or high build) need to be sanded before being resprayed if allowed to cure because they essentially "seal" themselves. By using the Epoxy followed by the high fill you can effectively clean and preserve the parts in question. When you are ready to finish the part it can be scuff sanded then fillers can be applied if needed. Next re coat with high fill primer, block sand, and finally seal it with a wet coat of Epoxy primer. Back to the rust inhibitors. I have been told by several Epoxy primer manufacturer that it would be BEST not to use anything under their product. Rust Bullet and the others say otherwise, however the Epoxy if applied properly will starve and dehydrate any residual rust. This is like most things I have spent time researching and asking about....ask three people and you will end up with four opinions.
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#6
Blueoval71;32058 Wrote:Many blasting companies offer soda blasting now. Most paint companies will not warranty paint if panels have been soda blasted unless you follow their special treatment procedures. I too am not a body guy though I am learning. I was fortunate enough to take the Sunchaser Tools Metal shrinking class a couple of years ago before a forum war turned the owner against hobbyists. I will also be working on the body over the course of several years and have been researching the best way to prep and store parts long term. I will be DA sanding the body and parts as clean as possible then spot blasting any bad or pitted areas. I was originally going to use something like Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, POR 15 or Rust Bullet before priming on the worst areas. I was told not to, but I'll get to that later. I was turned off by the cost of Dupont, PPG and a few other premium brands. I have used PCL's Polyprimer in my industry (car audio) for many years to finish custom dash parts and speaker enclosures. After speaking to one of their "product specialists" I was left with the feeling it was an off brand and I might regret using their process. Then I found SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc) and spoke to the owner about my projects. He recommended sanding/derusting the metal as best you can. Next use their Waterborne Wax and Grease Remover to lift off any impurities and let it dry for 30 minutes. Next comes 2 coats of Epoxy primer sprayed 30 minutes apart. Wait 24 hours then spray a coat or two of their 2K High build primer. Primers (epoxy or high build) need to be sanded before being resprayed if allowed to cure because they essentially "seal" themselves. By using the Epoxy followed by the high fill you can effectively clean and preserve the parts in question. When you are ready to finish the part it can be scuff sanded then fillers can be applied if needed. Next re coat with high fill primer, block sand, and finally seal it with a wet coat of Epoxy primer. Back to the rust inhibitors. I have been told by several Epoxy primer manufacturer that it would be BEST not to use anything under their product. Rust Bullet and the others say otherwise, however the Epoxy if applied properly will starve and dehydrate any residual rust. This is like most things I have spent time researching and asking about....ask three people and you will end up with four opinions.
Correct except that spi wax & grease should dry for 1 hour not 30 minutes & epoxy does not "starve and dehydrate any residual rust" That's bunk ! If you want to see for yourself do a test panel with a rusted piece of sheet metal, spray with epoxy & immerse in a bucket of water for a month & watch what happens do the same with rust bullet & watch what happens..Each product has it's place in the restoration process & I would never use rust bullet as a primer/ base for a paint job but for superior rust protection in hidden high rust prone areas or the underside of the chassis there is no better product currently & there is no product that i know of for rust protection that has a patent except for rust bullet. Like you say ask 3 people & you get three answers ! But ask people who have done this day in & day out for a living in real world conditions..Not the paint reps or sales people who if you asked them to come into a shop & do a restoration Or paint job would fall flat on their face. Jmowhistling

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#7
O.K. let me see if I have this right. Media blast. Rust bullet bare metal on wheel side. Epoxy primer on paint side.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#8
markmel;32087 Wrote:O.K. let me see if I have this right. Media blast. Rust bullet bare metal on wheel side. Epoxy primer on paint side.
You got it !!!!!

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#9
Qcode351mach;32120 Wrote:
markmel;32087 Wrote:O.K. let me see if I have this right. Media blast. Rust bullet bare metal on wheel side. Epoxy primer on paint side.
You got it !!!!!
Thanks guys I intend to get started in the morning.


[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#10

[/quote]
Correct except that spi wax & grease should dry for 1 hour not 30 minutes & epoxy does not "starve and dehydrate any residual rust" That's bunk ! If you want to see for yourself do a test panel with a rusted piece of sheet metal, spray with epoxy & immerse in a bucket of water for a month & watch what happens do the same with rust bullet & watch what happens..Each product has it's place in the restoration process & I would never use rust bullet as a primer/ base for a paint job but for superior rust protection in hidden high rust prone areas or the underside of the chassis there is no better product currently & there is no product that i know of for rust protection that has a patent except for rust bullet. Like you say ask 3 people & you get three answers ! But ask people who have done this day in & day out for a living in real world conditions..Not the paint reps or sales people who if you asked them to come into a shop & do a restoration Or paint job would fall flat on their face. Jmowhistling

[/quote]
Yes, you are correct. I am sorry I was referring to outer body panels and wasn't clear about that.
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