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Body bracing
#1
I'm sure some of you have seen the body demension sheet I've posted in the past for some users.
.pdf   scan0001.pdf (Size: 377.89 KB / Downloads: 28)
Question:
Will it be different on the wheels as opposed to sitting on the stands? When I set the car on the stands and strapped it down, I didn't have these measurements to go by. So now, If I do my measuring before welding in panels and find it not true. How would I go about pulling it together, and will the body panel lines change on the wheels as oppoed to being on the stands? Sure could use some input before I start welding!

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#2
Mark! Contact Scott URGENT for this!... he has it very straight on how you supposed toi measure and in what conditions...



Damián Cool

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#3
markmel;42605 Wrote:I'm sure some of you have seen the body demension sheet I've posted in the past for some users.
Question:
Will it be different on the wheels as opposed to sitting on the stands? When I set the car on the stands and strapped it down, I didn't have these measurements to go by. So now, If I do my measuring before welding in panels and find it not true. How would I go about pulling it together, and will the body panel lines change on the wheels as oppoed to being on the stands? Sure could use some input before I start welding!
To answer your question YES it will be different..Need to know exactly what your welding in ? Just panels? Those measurements are for the unibody structure...if your looking to verify that the unibody STRUCTURE is straight correct than you can rough it with the car on it's wheels but the car should be leveled (2x4's etc under the wheels to get the rocker level) ..dropping a plumb bob from the frame rail at the point shown on the chart to the floor..mark with tape then measure..THIS WILL ONLY WORK FOR LENGTH & SQUARE (X DIMENSIONS) IT WILL NOT WORK FOR HEIGHT..If you need to check height & are welding in any structural pieces then the car needs to be set up on the rocker pinch welds evenly.
ALL SHEET METAL PANELS SHOULD BE ALIGNED WELDED IN WITH THE CAR ON IT'S WHEELS !!! If you don't have a proper jig & most people don't. I had a very long post about the measuring process here starting at post 16
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-trunk...body+panel

I noticed in another thread your talking about doing the trunk floor. If that's the case you need to set the car up on a jig on the rockers as per the above link especially if you didn't LOCK in the rear rails before removal (you can see the one I made out of wood in my videos ) & measure for height . The rear should be out of the car.

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#4
Didn't even think about this... so, what about welding on a rotisserie? I suppose it depends on what pieces you are doing?
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#5
71_badmach;42626 Wrote:Didn't even think about this... so, what about welding on a rotisserie? I suppose it depends on what pieces you are doing?
Yes it depends what pieces your doing..I would stay away from doing any sheet metal exterior skins on the rotisserie ...On the other hand you should have no problem doing aprons or 1 floor at a time on a rotisserie. to play it safe, once you confirm your measurements you could tack a brace from the hinge pillar to the door jamb before putting the car on the rotisserie

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#6
I have to replace the driver's side rear rail on my M-code. Good Lord, what am I getting myself into!

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
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#7
I'm looking at 2, 1/2 floor panels on the drivers side and 1, 1/2 floor panel on the passenger side. Plus the entire trunk floor panel and the taillight panel.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#8
I'm a little concerned. When I bought this it was stripped (no front end, no rear end, no doors and no trunk lid or taillight panel.) So I set it on my movable stands at the front and rear frames. Do I need to get the front suspension and new rear end under it first? Then set it on the floor get my alignment and start from there before I begin welding in panels?

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#9
Mark:: IMHO I prefer doing 1/4 panels with my stands under the axle housing this puts the weight where it will rest on the ground. But if you have the rearend out it is still not that bad. Before you cut anything out put your stands where the frt and rear spring hangers are for your rearend. Level the car with your frt end stands as mentioned before then for reference use your chart and compare the numbers of your rear structure to make sure its right before you cut anything out. The trick is you don't want it sagging when you cut out the panels and lose much of its structural support. Its not as hard as it sounds.
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#10
markmel;42739 Wrote:Do I need to get the front suspension and new rear end under it first? Then set it on the floor get my alignment and start from there before I begin welding in panels?

Mark, I would at the minimum put the rear leafs on the car & then put Jack stands at the four point load locations where the car is supported when it is on its wheels. The important thing that everyone's saying is to allow the normal sag the body has when on the wheels before welding on body panels. That way no flex is introduced in each panel.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
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