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Big block headers
#1
Hi all. I am in the process of getting my 73 Mach 1 with swapped 460 back on the road. Currently have a pair of long tubes that wrap under the cross member but they have seen better days. I did some searching and see that there is a company called FPA (ford powertrain applications) that make a mid length header. I found some old threads on here, but not any that discussed install of these.

Has anyone found a pair of headers that do not have to be run under the cross member to fit a big block very well? I hope there is a yes to this answer with first hand experience!

THanks for looking!
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#2
I have FPA headers. They are a mid-length header that fit pretty well. The driver's side required a little clearancing around the steering box. Not sure what you mean by going under the cross member.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#3
(10-28-2019, 09:23 AM)TommyK Wrote: I have FPA headers. They are a mid-length header that fit pretty well. The driver's side required a little clearancing around the steering box. Not sure what you mean by going under the cross member.
He may be referring to Hooker headers (part number 6115). I had some back in the 80's.  They were 3 piece on each side. The forward two came under the crossmember. They are equal length but I did not like them.  I may give the fpa ones a look see.

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.
1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air
1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air
1987 Bronco II
2014 F150 Supercrew
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#4
Thanks for the feedback! How much massaging was needed? Are they good quality? Do you remeber the cost... I don’t see a price on thier website.

In the pic below, see the big gap between the front 2 and rear 2 pipes on each side... that’s where they wrap around and go under the K member
[Image: 69469-CDB-F3-D9-4-A97-AC9-A-955150530994.jpg]
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#5
OK I see what you mean. They are not like that. They fit well and are very nice quality. I had to dimple one tube with a hammer because it was very close to the box. This may be because I was not using factory motor mounts. IIRC they were around $500 plus shipping uncoated but that was 10 years ago.


.jpg   stage2revised.jpg (Size: 22.19 KB / Downloads: 96)

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#6
I contacted them today...$775 uncoated. An extra $250 for coating. Glad to hear the dimple is small. I too have aftermarket mounts.
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#7
Maybe get them uncoated, fit them and have them coated locally.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#8
(10-28-2019, 02:13 PM)dohcsvt Wrote: I contacted them today...$775 uncoated. An extra $250 for coating. Glad to hear the dimple is small. I too have aftermarket mounts.


Good to know there is other alternatives. I have a set of the 6115's.  You got me all excited about the FPA headers.  I was thinking about changing them out until you bust me bubble with the price.  A lot of cash I could put to good use in other places.  If you go with them post a pic after you have them install.

Kilgon


"The only dumb question is the one not asked"
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#9
I will.

Without going into great detail, my current headers are pretty smashed on the front 2 pipes. I need new ones. Hate to spend that much coin, but at least I won’t smash the front pipes again.
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#10
(10-28-2019, 03:34 PM)dohcsvt Wrote: I will.

Without going into great detail, my current headers are pretty smashed on the front 2 pipes. I need new ones. Hate to spend that much coin, but at least I won’t smash the front pipes again.

I understand about the smash pipes. My front pipes were also smashed when I inherited the care from my brother.  After removing them I took a galvanized reducer fitting and attached a piece of thread all to it.  See pic of reducer.  Put thread all with nut on each side of small opening and insert that end in first.  I used a 1 1/4 to 3/4 reducer. Outside diameter measure 1 3/4 on the big end.

I then used a cutting torch to heat up the pipe where it was smashed and then drove the fitting up into it to round it back out.  It worked pretty good.  Hard to see but they look very good were they were smashed.   Got them sand blasted for $100 and I finished off with rustoleum high temperature primer and paint

[Image: Fitting.jpg]

[Image: IMG-0295.jpg]

Kilgon


"The only dumb question is the one not asked"
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