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Best Conventional Oil To Use?
My dads has a couple classic cars, and I have a mustang with the 351C. He said that the older engines need to have some more zinc additives because of the cams or flat tappits. No idea what some of this is, but most of the oil doesn’t have a high enough content of zinc that’s supposedly recommended. He said the little additives you can add to oil don’t work. To me what does every other classic car owner use if the new oil doesn’t have the proper additives and slowly ruins a motor. I don’t know if what’s hes found out from a machine shop is correct or not. So if anyone can let me know of what most use for classic cars that would be great. Thanks

1973 Mach 1 Big Grin
This has been discussed many times here. I use Valvoline VR1 conventional racing oil 10w30

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason

[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
[+] 1 user Likes 73pony's post
Shell Rotella is a good oil for older cars. Due to its zinc content.
[+] 1 user Likes keiths71's post
I use Castrol 10W30 plus a bottle of ZZDP zinc additive (from NPD) and a Motorcraft FL1A filter.

I learn something new every day!
Probably more than you want to read but, a good write up on the subject. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-...-oils.html I agree with your dad's machinist, additives are not a good idea. There is no way to know if the additive chemical package is compatible with the oil chemical package. I also suggest using a conventional oil formulated specifically for engine break-in. Chuck
Rottella 15w-40


1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 044.jpg]

+1 for Valvoline vr1 racing 10w/30. Failing that (I can't get it) then Amsoil Zrod 10w/30. Both have extra zinc (in form of ZDDP) so no need for additional additives. There are some specific racing oils with more zinc than these two but as they don't have the detergents in them they're not suitable for road cars and apparently ZDDP above about 1500 ppm is supposedly damaging to the engine from what I can gather?
Lucas Classic 10W30 with zinc made exclusively for car’s with flat tappet camshafts. I use in my ‘71 J Code and ‘73 H Code Vert’s.
Currently, and for many years now, I've been running Valvoline 30wt Racing ( now called VR-1), however, I've got many years of driving on this engine, and here in SoCal it doesn't get very cold, so I may step up a notch in viscosity next oil change to a Valvoline VR-1 20/50. I've been a user of Valvoline products since 1973, although I like the Castrol, Quaker State, and Kendal products as well.
I use Havoline 10-30 with the Lucas Zinc additive. I also use the Lucas gas additive for upper cylinder and valve lubrication that was lost when lead went out. I use ethanol fee 90 - 91 octane fuel.
My engine if bored .05" over, flat top pistons, cam. flat tappets and has AC and no heating issues at all. I do not know any specifics on cam of balance PO did that. I have driven it over 1,000 miles this year is doing great so far. 
Everyone has oil opinions about the only one I would stay away from is anything with Pennsylvania oil in it. That is usually a paraffin base and will cause sludge build up. Have seen cars that when you took valve cover off it look like the valve cover was still there so much paraffin built up, one big lump. Quaker State oil was all they used and bought the car new.
For sure do not go with a synthetic.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
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