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Bearing kit for clutch pedal
#1
Part of my upgrades this winter is installing a 5-speed manual in my auto car. I am in the process of installing the clutch pedal using the bearing kit from Scott Drake. Now I have the pedal bracket out. However, the opening for the clutch pedal is oblong. Thus the bearing can move within the hole. That said, I guess I will have to tack it in place. If that's the case, then where should I place it? In the middle, towards the back or front? Has anyone have similar issues? Or doesn't matter?
[Image: 20180301_002752m.jpg]

[Image: 20180301_002821m.jpg]

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#2
When I did my upgrade to bearings, I bought from Mustang Steve. That kit uses sealed ball bearings, not open roller type. I can't comment on the quality or fitment of the SD kit.
As for placement, and as you're changing from auto to manual, you can't measure the center distance from the brake pin to the clutch pin location, so it is a bit of a guess. BUT if you aim to center on you existing hole, there should be no issues. I honestly can't remember if I enlarged that hole or not and I have no pictures either.
What I found I needed to do was to compensate for the slight off angle of the bracket, i.e. the side are not parallel to each other. It required grinding each of the bearing retainers to compensate for this. You will need to VERY CAREFULLY set the bearing retainers, bearings and shaft and make sure it is all straight and true before welding the retainers in place. If you're not up to welding, get someone who can do it for you. This needs to be done right the first time.
Good luck with your conversion and please let us know who it turns out,
Geoff.
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#3
I did not have to weld mine in place. The circlips were so tight it does not move at all.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#4
(03-01-2018, 10:59 AM)73pony Wrote: I did not have to weld mine in place. The circlips were so tight it does not move at all.

 Ok you obviously have a different set-up to Mustang Steve's. Still, if the bracket sides are not straight and parallel, as was the case with mine, then the bearings will not be square to one-another. The old plastic bushings will allow for a mismatch far more readily than bearings. If it worked out for you, great and yes, circlips would be a far easier way to install the bearings.
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#5
(03-01-2018, 11:28 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(03-01-2018, 10:59 AM)73pony Wrote: I did not have to weld mine in place. The circlips were so tight it does not move at all.

 Ok you obviously have a different set-up to Mustang Steve's. Still, if the bracket sides are not straight and parallel, as was the case with mine, then the bearings will not be square to one-another. The old plastic bushings will allow for a mismatch far more readily than bearings. If it worked out for you, great and yes, circlips would be a far easier way to install the bearings.

Yes, Scott Drake's is different than Mustang Steve's in that the bearings are needle and have no inner carrier. See this sheet for pictures:
file:///C:/Users/Antoine/Downloads/IS-2478-RB%20Clutch%20Pedal%20Roller%20Bearing%20Online.pdf

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#6
(03-01-2018, 11:28 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(03-01-2018, 10:59 AM)73pony Wrote: I did not have to weld mine in place. The circlips were so tight it does not move at all.

 Ok you obviously have a different set-up to Mustang Steve's. Still, if the bracket sides are not straight and parallel, as was the case with mine, then the bearings will not be square to one-another. The old plastic bushings will allow for a mismatch far more readily than bearings. If it worked out for you, great and yes, circlips would be a far easier way to install the bearings.

I have the scott drake kit. was a conversion from Auto to Manual. Not sure I would say the clips were easy. I did this without removing my pedal assembly. Instead I turned myself into a pretzel and installed while in the car. Can I just say those clips hurt when they get loose from the little pliers and are flying at you.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#7
I used the Scott Drake kit as well. I had to find the best position for the shaft and bearings. Once I found that sweet spot in the bracket, I tack welded it in place. Then fitted it again to ensure no bind on the shaft. Then disassembled it all and bead welded it to the support bracket. Works great. I did the American powertrain hydraulic clutch conversion at the same time.

John
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#8
(03-01-2018, 11:55 AM)73pony Wrote:
(03-01-2018, 11:28 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(03-01-2018, 10:59 AM)73pony Wrote: I did not have to weld mine in place. The circlips were so tight it does not move at all.

 Ok you obviously have a different set-up to Mustang Steve's. Still, if the bracket sides are not straight and parallel, as was the case with mine, then the bearings will not be square to one-another. The old plastic bushings will allow for a mismatch far more readily than bearings. If it worked out for you, great and yes, circlips would be a far easier way to install the bearings.

I have the scott drake kit. was a conversion from Auto to Manual. Not sure I would say the clips were easy. I did this without removing my pedal assembly. Instead I turned myself into a pretzel and installed while in the car. Can I just say those clips hurt when they get loose from the little pliers and are flying at you.
 Interesting to know the difference. Yes I do see that with clips, it's an easier install. I'll have to check them out for my own knowledge.
 When I did mine, I as also installing the power booster up-grade and for that, I removed the column as well as the bracket. Mine is a manual from the start.
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#9
I ended up tacking it at the farthest forward location. At that point, when the brake and clutch are depressed, they are at a pretty close angle.
I used the circlips, but I was not able to fit the spring washer in between. Either the groove of the circlip is off, or something is thicker. This was even after I ground any edge imperfections. I ended up tacking the washer on the outside and the flange of the bearing on the inside to keep all from moving.
I am glad I took the pedal bracket out. It not only made the job much easier, but I was able to paint the bracket. This was also a good chance to check and clean up all the wires running under the dash. Plus I had to remove the steering column and brake booster anyways. I am replacing the brake booster and also replacing the steering column to firewall gasket. And while I was at it, I welded one of the studs that hold the ignition switch to the column that had sheared off last year. And while I was at it, I am replacing the brake line to the rear (the only one I had not replaced) and the fuel vapor line, which I use as a fuel return line. And lastly, while I am at it, I will be replacing all the plastic bushings, grommets, washers and seals related to the brakes and steering.

Tacked washer on exterior of bracket:
[Image: 20180301_224149.jpg]

Tacked bearing flange on interior of bracket:
[Image: 20180301_224201.jpg]

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#10
Tony, got a picture of the completed assembly after painting? ............ while you're at it!!
Wish I'd taken pics of mine when it was out, but I tend to just want to get it done!
For sure you'll be glad you did this mod as it will make clutch operation much easier. That's what I found anyways.
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