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Battery Tray Apron Removal
#1
Hi Folks, Just painted the engine compartment and during that time I discovered rust under the battery tray and on the apron. I dont wanna fix it w/sheet metal b/c I know rust will eventually come back and probably kill the frame as well. I want a new Apron welded. Has anyone ever replaced one? I'm sure someone has, b/c after 40 years, battery acid gets down there some how and developes rust. Do I have to remove the Fender in order to replace that Apron? I dont want to remove the fender b/c if I do, that means I have to remove the Grill too which is pain in the but. So, if someone knows the easiest way to get it done and how to pull off the old apron please let me know. I have all the parts out (radiator, fan shroud, alternator, battery, etc.) and have plenty of room. A buddy of mine is going to weld it for me, I just want to remove it so he doesnt have to do all the work since he works long hours. Open to all the ideas. This site has helped me a lot (love it)

Thanks in Advance,
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#2
Chances are that you'll have to remove the fender. The worse part is that the front apron is spot welded to the radiator support as well as the spring tower and frame. There will be a bit of cutting and grinding but it can be done!

[Image: 1gq8uo.png]
1971 Mach 1 - 306cid/C4 Bright Yellow
"Just relax, I've got a friend named Felix who can fix anything!" ~James Bond
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#3
X2 with rocket.. i think for ease of work and work space Pull the fender. BUT i won't say you cant do it with the fender on. The apron sets on top of the shock tower,and under the core support so you should be able to twist it out and back in, but the spot welds on top would be a bear to cut with the fender on. A spot weld cutter would be best then your more or less drilling the spot welds out. working clerance would be the drawback. if you buy a cutter make sure you get a good one and not a discount store cheepy.Mine came from snapon and has almost done my whole car sofar without breaking.
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#4
Thanks for ur reply pappy. Can I use a regular metal cutter? I used it to cut holes in doors for speakers.
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#5
What you're looking for is a spot-weld removal bit. Here's one at Sears, however you can get them from most hardware stores some auto parts stores:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_...&seaxdou=1

Here's a quickie on how to do it. http://www.ehow.com/how_4970237_remove-spot-weld.html

I got my first bit from NAPA, and the plunger broke after 10 minutes. Then I snagged a couple from Harbor Freight (pretty much 2 for 1 in price difference), and one bit broke the plunger but the other one is hanging in there - who knows. I think my first bit broke because I wasn't familiar with the technique. The second one, well... it's a POS from Harbor Freight... I kinda expected it.

As for removing the fender, grill, etc. - just do it... the job will go a lot faster, as well as you'll run less risk of something else getting damaged in the process. The bit will take off (walk away from the target) if you don't have a really good divot for the plunger to ride in. That, and not being able to actually get to the spot welds on the top of the apron to the shock tower will be impossible without pulling the fender. As well, the radiator support's welds are located underneath where the fender rests.

Bottom line - anything you can get out of the way to give yourself more room will only make life easier (and run less risk of messing up something shiny).

Good luck! And don't forget to look for Scott's video on how it's done - he's the man when it comes to this stuff.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#6
THIS is the bit I use and have good results.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp...apon-store
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