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Battery apron replaced....fender mounting holes?
#11
Getting through some of these spot welds is a bit of a chore. I'm having to use different tools to get the apron loose.
Many of the spot welds aren't perfectly round, often oblong and upwards of a half inch long in places.

Down the shock tower edge I used a 3" cutoff wheel to cut down the welds.
Across the top edge I used a Milwaukee shockwave 7/8" hole saw. (uses a smaller pilot bit, looks to be 3/16" bit). I've also used drill bits and a grinder stone in a drill.
I may order actual spot weld cutter bits today, just didn't feel like waiting for them to arrive to start the job.

I'm having to do mine with the engine in the car as well which makes it a little tougher.
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#12
(10-18-2019, 06:45 AM)HOTY65 Wrote: Getting through some of these spot welds is a bit of a chore. I'm having to use different tools to get the apron loose.
Many of the spot welds aren't perfectly round, often oblong and upwards of a half inch long in places.

Down the shock tower edge I used a 3" cutoff wheel to cut down the welds.
Across the top edge I used a Milwaukee shockwave 7/8" hole saw. (uses a smaller pilot bit, looks to be 3/16" bit). I've also used drill bits and a grinder stone in a drill.
I may order actual spot weld cutter bits today, just didn't feel like waiting for them to arrive to start the job.

I'm having to do mine with the engine in the car as well which makes it a little tougher.

Check your local Harbor Freight.  They did carry them.  If you buy from there get at least 2 of them.  They wear out fast.

Kilgon


"The only dumb question is the one not asked"
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#13
My town, Heath just opened up a new Harbor Freight store a couple weeks ago.
I did go there and check, they aren't carrying the spot weld bits at this time.
They did have the 1/2" Bandfile Belt sander, but looked really cheap. And neither Lowes or Home Depot carry those mini belt sanders yet.

I won't get any time tonight or tomorrow to work on it, but I'll have the old apron out of there on Sunday. I've got half of the welds broke now.
The hole saw is designed for thin metal and does a really clean job. The 3" cutoff wheel is effective, but slower and creates a lot of dust and debris.

I always had plans of doing all of this work slow and methodical, but my father recently put a bug in my ear that's altered my timeline a bit.

He told me he'd like to drive the car once before he kicks the bucket. ( he's a month away from his 79th birthday, and had quadruple bypass surgery last winter ).  He got excited when I bought the car back in 2015, but he didn't think I would take this long to get started on it. He raced cars in his youth, and loves old fords. He helped me do most of the work on my first 72 Mustang. It also reminds him of the 69 Cougar that he owned.

My issue is I work a lot of overtime, I have 6 grandkids, help coach little league ball, and go to all of their other sports and school activities. And we also ride and race motocross and GP's when we can fit it in.

But I'm committed and into it now. The Mustang is getting done.
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#14
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-doub...eld+cutter

I tried the harbor freight items at the link above. It came in handy but i prefer the spotfacing type (ebay link is dead, see the amazon link below from hemikiller).

i also used the ebay ones to help cut in the holes for the fender mounting bolts (still in work). Lots of ways to get it done and i have a single data point for reference so keep that in mind. Others on here are much more experienced. Mine worked well enough that i would not hesitate to do it again (even though my welds kinda sucked).

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.
1971 convertible, 1987 Bronco II
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#15
I stopped using spot weld cutters, as the "hole saw" types leave the "nugget" for you to grind off creating a lot of extra work. I had switched about halfway through doing my 71 to using a spot weld drill, which removes the nugget for the most part, with only minimal cleanup needed. I bought mine from a body supply house, but this is the style I'm talking about. It helps to center punch the weld.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10050A-Dril...21&sr=8-36

Sometimes it's just easier to grind the spot welded flange down paper thin with a flap or grinding wheel in a 4 1/2" grinder and then use a chisel to pry the panels apart. You can also get a spotweld panel ripper if you have an air chisel, or use one of the manual ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Steck-20015-Seam-...TN9GZ7V0SK

https://www.amazon.com/Steck-Manufacturi...YQJ5X0CY1N


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