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Battery apron replaced....fender mounting holes?
#1
I have the original apron to use as a template.  I am thinking a combination of drilling and dremel i can make something reasonably decent looking.  Is there a preferred way to make these holes?  Thx in advance
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#2
Be a lot easier and a lot less work to just replace. You can get a new one at Ohio Mustang for $50.

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_p...itemid=327

Kilgon


"The only dumb question is the one not asked"
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#3
(10-09-2019, 11:49 AM)Kilgon Wrote: Be a lot easier and a lot less work to just replace.  You can get a new one at Ohio Mustang for $50.

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_p...itemid=327
I did replace the entire part BUT all of the ones I looked at have the fender mounting areas as "blank".  These are the slot and square hole that use the spring type plate nut (or captive nut, not sure of the actual name).  That is an older pic before welded in.
[Image: 20190825-172609-resized.jpg]
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#4
(10-09-2019, 11:49 AM)Kilgon Wrote: Be a lot easier and a lot less work to just replace.  You can get a new one at Ohio Mustang for $50.

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_p...itemid=327
Here's a cupla pics as it is now[Image: 20190928-181616.jpg]

[Image: 20190928-181328.jpg]
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#5
Sorry about that - I thought you were trying to make an apron. When I did mine I laid the fender on and matched the existing bolt holes first and then mark where the new ones needed to go. Then you can use your old one as a template from there.

As far a cutting the new ones in I used a drill, dremel and file. Have to remember the fender will cover these so they don't have to be perfect. I'm for sure there are others who do it differently.

Kilgon


"The only dumb question is the one not asked"
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#6
(10-09-2019, 12:56 PM)Kilgon Wrote: Sorry about that - I thought you were trying to make an apron.    When I did mine I laid the fender on and matched the existing bolt holes first and then mark where the new ones needed to go.  Then you can use your old one as a template from there. 

As far a cutting the new ones in I used a drill,  dremel and file.  Have to remember the fender will cover these so they don't have to be perfect.  I'm for sure there are others who do it differently.
Even though part of my job is communicating doesn't mean I always do it well!  I could have been more clear (pic would have made it clear but i am not a big forums user). I am a DIY type person so i plan to do it all myself.....except engine related machining.....so i am going to be asking lots of questions and advice.

Thx...I guess i will be drilling and dremeling!
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#7
No problem. Pics always help. There is all kind of help available here. You might wait a little before getting started to see if anyone else chimes in with a better way.

Like a lot things, there isn't always a right way or wrong way - but sometimes there is an easier way.

Kilgon


"The only dumb question is the one not asked"
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#8
You did a nice job on your install there.
I've just begun removal of mine tonight, and noticed the absence of the holes in my replacement panel. I remember someone else mentioning this in another thread.

Just curious, what method did you use to break all the spot welds? There's no shortage of them, that's for sure.
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#9
(10-16-2019, 09:00 PM)HOTY65 Wrote: You did a nice job on your install there.
I've just begun removal of mine tonight, and noticed the absence of the holes in my replacement panel.  I remember someone else mentioning this in another thread.

Just curious, what method did you use to break all the spot welds? There's no shortage of them, that's for sure.
I used a spot weld cutter. It is basically a piloted spot face bit. I bought 2 sets of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3pc-HSCO-Titani...fb3e846c37

I recommend using a punch if you have one. Not required but makes it cleaner. I do have a question for others. I am questioning my weld quality. Is this pic ana acceptable weld?

[Image: 20191016-191832.jpg]

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.
1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air
1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air
1987 Bronco II
2014 F150 Supercrew
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#10
Doesn't look like your hot enough. and not enough weld in there. Don't be afraid to turn it up a little on these panels. There is little to no chance of warpage and they are pretty thick. You want to fill your plug weld completely and not see the circle of the edge of the hole. When you hit it with the grinder to level it down you shouldn't even be able to tell there was a weld there. Grind they black off and hit it again but fill the entire hole, you want both base materials to melt together, not just melt wire into the hole.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

[Image: 044.jpg]
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