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basic engine temps
#1
After driving the car and getting the engine properly warmed up, not overheating with proper thermostat, what would be the general temp of the thermostat housing / upper radiator hose? Then I'm assuming the radiator drops the temp in the bottom hose about 20 degrees from that?

Wouldnt the heater hose going to the heater also be the same temp as the upper radiator hose? How much would the temp drop in the return hose from the heater?

Thanks!
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#2
The temperature of the upper radiator hose will be dependant on which temperature rating thermostat you are running, how hard your car was run, and the air temperature.

The drop in temperature in the radiator will depend on air temperature and radiator, fan and shroud efficiency, and whether the car is moving or stationary.

Yes, the hose running to the heater core should be about the same as the upper radiator hose after the thermostat is fully open. The temperature drop acoss the heater core will depend on if the heater is being used and what the air temperature is.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
hmm.. lots of variables come into play. I'm assuming since the heater core is small, the temp difference between the two heater hoses is relatively small.

Thanks Don!
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#4
If you measure the temperature of the thermostat housing on the exterior should give you the closest water temperature (if thermostat is open) since the loss through the steel should be small. The OEM temperature transducer is below the thermostat so the surrounding steel should give you a very close reading of the water temp.
The hose being rubber acts as an insulator so the temp there would be some lower.
If the fan is on or mechanical, or the car is moving, it will, in theory, "slightly" lower the temperature measurements on the exterior.

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        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#5
I've lived where it was cold enough in the winter that running the heater was enough of a radiator that the thermostat never opened, so it can remove a fair amount of heat. A trick in days gone by, when cars didn't have as efficient fans and shrouds, was to run the heater when the engine was over heating, it could make the difference in an engine boiling over, or not.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#6
(04-05-2019, 03:40 PM)Don C Wrote: I've lived where it was cold enough in the winter that running the heater was enough of a radiator that the thermostat never opened, so it can remove a fair amount of heat. A trick in days gone by, when cars didn't have as efficient fans and shrouds, was to run the heater when the engine was over heating, it could make the difference in an engine boiling over, or not.

True. That's one of the tricks to use when you are off-roading in the middle of nowhere and the truck starts overheating. Even if not cold out, it will do the trick to lower the temperature some. Don't mind that you will be boiling inside but it may be enough to bring you back to civilization Angry .

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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