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bare block back
#1
Got my engine back from to shop today. The crank was trashed and the cam. Also 3 lifters were mushroomed. My cam was a 298 with 83 overlap. pistons all gone but had 1 bad rod. Shopping for cam and crank kits to start the rebuild.. Should I re-ring it and replace valve springs?
[Image: 1_30_09_13_10_12_32.png]
Alan L
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#2
I am not an engine builder but I would replace every thing I could with new parts.I am trying to keep up with your build keep us posted on it.
[Image: 20r9ylt.jpg]
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#3
I agree change as much as u can.you wouldn't want to be driving and your freshly rebuilt engine breaks down from a worn valve spring.
Eric


[Image: a58hgh.jpg]
DRIVE IT DON'T STORE IT!
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#4
X3.

I am a FIRM believer in getting the COMPLETE kit when replacing a camshaft. The springs should be "matched" to the camshaft as it relates to spring pressure. It just makes sense to use the kit, in my estimation.

BT
  Reply
#5
X4

Cams, lifters and springs should be matched for best results.
Any time a piston comes out of the bore new rings should be installed. Re-using rings is throwing good $$ after bad.
Can the crank be saved? Can it be ground? A reground crank is in many cases better than the aftermarket cranks unless you spend big bucks.
Have your rods reconditioned and new bolts installed while your at it.

Like was mentioned above, the wiser you are with your decisions now the longer you will be happy with the results.
Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#6
(10-14-2010, 06:41 PM)not2old Wrote: Got my engine back from to shop today. The crank was trashed and the cam. Also 3 lifters were mushroomed. My cam was a 298 with 83 overlap. pistons all gone but had 1 bad rod. Shopping for cam and crank kits to start the rebuild.. Should I re-ring it and replace valve springs?

Hi Alan -

I've been shopping cams and related parts for a couple weeks, and definitely decided to go with the whole cam/springs/timing set/etc. complete kit. I found a Comp Cams kit that I really like for $315 delivered. I'd be happy to compare notes if you wish.

Doc
Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#7
(10-14-2010, 06:41 PM)not2old Wrote: Got my engine back from to shop today. The crank was trashed and the cam. Also 3 lifters were mushroomed. My cam was a 298 with 83 overlap. pistons all gone but had 1 bad rod. Shopping for cam and crank kits to start the rebuild.. Should I re-ring it and replace valve springs?

It would be unwise not to totally rebuild the engine at this point. Are you doing engine assembly or is the machine shop doing assembly? Component selection can be a challenge. The goal is to match all of the components to each other. The cross hatch pattern and finish on the cylinder walls is determined by the ring package being used. The ring manufacturer will specify the finish required to optimize sealing. Bearing type (racing or street) is determined by how the radius on the crank throws is finished (wide or narrow). When selecting the cam keep in mind what you really want to do with the car, bigger is not always better. Clevelands respond well to relatively high lift and relatively short duration camshafts. Patterns that favor the exhaust work well due to the huge flow rates of the intake runners (I'm assuming 4V heads) in relation to the exhaust flow rates. Regardless of what cam is selected, the other valve train components (springs, retainers, keepers, pushrods, rocker arms) must match. There are several low cost oiling modifications that can be done readily while the engine is apart. Do not use a high volume oil pump unless you increase oil pan capacity. Due to oiling system design (and pan capacity) at high RPMs the valve covers fill with oil, it can't drain back fast enough, the rods and mains starve, and catastrophic failure follows. Clevelands are great engine if properly built. If I can help, feel free to contact me.

Chuck
c9zx@cox.net


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#8
I want to thank everyone for the feedback, and will appreciate any and all suggestions to assist in my rebuild. At present I plan to do the work my self. Also would like to thank Chuck for his input because I was advised, and purchased a high volume oil pump already, and hope to return.. Crank was badly scored on all journals, so it's trashed. Also trying to spec. out what size rear is in the car not trusting original options, which so far are not current.

Alan
(10-15-2010, 10:13 AM)73vertproject Wrote:
(10-14-2010, 06:41 PM)not2old Wrote: Got my engine back from to shop today. The crank was trashed and the cam. Also 3 lifters were mushroomed. My cam was a 298 with 83 overlap. pistons all gone but had 1 bad rod. Shopping for cam and crank kits to start the rebuild.. Should I re-ring it and replace valve springs?

Hi Alan -

I've been shopping cams and related parts for a couple weeks, and definitely decided to go with the whole cam/springs/timing set/etc. complete kit. I found a Comp Cams kit that I really like for $315 delivered. I'd be happy to compare notes if you wish.

Doc

Hi Doc, would like to know what cam you choose?
[Image: 1_30_09_13_10_12_32.png]
Alan L
  Reply
#9
Hi Alan -

I decided to go with the Comp Cams Camshaft Kit (32-242-4) - incl lifters, springs, spring retainers, timing chain and gears, etc. I have the specifics on another computer at work. I found the cheapest set for $315. Just google the part number and you should be able to find it for a variety of prices. Definitely don't go Summit or E-Bay - both were asking $417 or more.

If you go to the Comp Cams website, it will provide the specs and driving description - again, sorry I don't have that here. Basically its 218/224 at .050 and 110 lobe separation, something like .510 lift for both intake and exhaust. In the future I'll have that info at hand.

Let me know if I can provide any more info - I'll have everthing available tomorrow (Mon).

I'm attaching an Excel spreadsheet that I'm putting together for my engine build. It's not complete yet, and I'm DEFINITELY not sure about the intake or carb, but I'm not to that point yet. Use or discard it as you see fit. Smile

Doc


.xls   Engine Rebuild Spreadsheet.xls (Size: 19 KB / Downloads: 6)
Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#10
Doc, I noticed gaskets listed as seperate pieces. A rebuild kit will probably be less expensive. Get a set with the neoprene 2 piece rear main seal.
Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply


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