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Bad lower Control Arm and Idler Arm
#1
I have a 1973 Mustang Mach I, 351C, Auto. I’ve only put two thousand miles on the these parts and they are already falling apart.

The idler arm (picture attached): the orange arrow is this normal? Also the green arrow displays the bushing is starting to push through at the top. I had to put a washer there to keep it from coming through.

The lower control arms both sides (picture attached): the picture displays the passenger side. The driver side looks the same except reversed. The orange arrow shows the bushing pushing through. The green arrow shows how the arm has shifted and is starting to rub on the frame.

I know they need to be replaced and I made a complaint to the company. What do you think about Scott Drake arms or MOOG? I've seen global west too but expensive. Please advise.


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#2
I don't see a cotter pin in that castle nut? looks loose to me
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#3
caspianwendell;136400 Wrote:I don't see a cotter pin in that castle nut? looks loose to me

You are correct. I placed a thinner washer there after that then replaced the cotter pin. Thanks
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#4
Did that fix it after you tightened it down?
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#5
Who made those parts? And are you sure your torque wrench is good?

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#6
MOOG is an OEM supplier to Ford and still makes US manufactured suspension parts for our cars. Best bet is to contact Opentracker and buy the MOOG lower control arm with the better ball joint i believe you can get a roller bearing version, and boxed welded version if you think you need it. Fits perfectly first time.
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#7
I wouldn't buy toilet paper from Drake.

I have had good luck with MOOG.

However, that arm is always going to give you trouble.

I went with a TPS arm and never looked back....well I did look back...but I didn't regret it.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#8
That's how they look new.

[Image: IMG_0181_zpsb3af0179.jpg]

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.
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#9
Wolverine;136467 Wrote:I wouldn't buy toilet paper from Drake.

I have had good luck with MOOG.

However, that arm is always going to give you trouble.

I went with a TPS arm and never looked back....well I did look back...but I didn't regret it.

Scott Drake started out with thr right idea, soon however they were buying out other suppliers and relying on the cheapest supplier they could find. So, Sadly, now they can be the only supplier of toilet paper, when Ya gotta have SOMETHING.

Wolverine???, Plz slpain what a TPS arm is?? Total Performance Solutions??
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#10
caspianwendell;136404 Wrote:Did that fix it after you tightened it down?

No I just reorder a better idler arm and install it removing the old one.

marks73;136412 Wrote:Who made those parts? And are you sure your torque wrench is good?

I torqued it down to specs at 60lbs. that put it back to normal however the rubber bushing was still at the early stages of coming out.

marks73;136412 Wrote:Who made those parts? And are you sure your torque wrench is good?

the parts come from cj pony parts.
this a link to the kit:
http://www.cjponyparts.com/supreme-front.../p/SUSK11/
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