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auto vs manual tranny
#1
For those who swapped one way or another, i want to hear your input. I want to do a tranny swap really soon and i want to know which is more worth my time and money

Application:
1972 Coupe with a 302 with approx 250-400 HP (never dynoed but it has to be within that range) currently have FMX open diff with a 28 in tire and 3.08.

Use:
I really want an OD tranny for freeway use, either a t-5 or a AOD with manual valve body. thinking of doing 3.55 or 3.73 with LSD for road racing and occasional autocross/ 1/8th mile drag, but mostly road racing and street use.

I would really love and appreciate any and all input. Still have time to save up but need to make a decision so i know what route i decide to take.

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
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#2
250-400 horsepower is a HUGE range. You certainly would not need a dyno to tell you which end of that range you are closest to.
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#3
For Manual, I'd go T-5 transmission with 3.5 rear end. If you want to stick with automatic, I'd seriously look into a 4R70W tranny with 3.7 rear end. If you don't want to go with electronically controlled transmission, then get a wide ratio AOD (uses gear set from the 4R70W)

Open differential will help keep you from fishtailing when accelerating thru a curve, but will lose traction when flooring it from a dead stop like a drag race.

Locking or limited slip differential will be better for off the line (like a drag race), but will be more prone to over-steer when accelerating thru a curve
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#4
If you're at the upper end of your horsepower range a stock AOD won't handle the power, you'll need to have one built. The weak point for an AOD is the hollow input shaft. A 4R70W will handle more power, and the electronic controller can be tuned for street or strip use.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#5
Its such a wide range because the builder says its 450-500..I think its 350-400 and others think Its less than 250.

I want a manually controlled tranny because i road race it..with my open diff and 3.08 i have really bad oversteer every corner if i punch it, it jus spins for about 1-2 seconds before it catches on

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
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#6
Sounds like you should get the suspension sorted out before you start changing a major part of the drivetrain.

Look into a posi/traction lock rear differential, bigger front swaybar, install a rear swaybar, and maybe new shocks and even better tires if traction is a problem.

Do you have front disc brakes?

Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
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#7
I hate automatic transmissions. They're boring. I suppose it depends what you want it for. As far as a manual, a T-5 is a pretty straight forward swap. A lot of places sell kits for this. I used the TKO-600 and their kit from Modern Driveline. I personally wouldn't use a T-5 for much more than 400hp. For a 302, I would go T-5 with a Pro-5.0 shifter (smooth shifts and shorter throw), 3.55 gears and a Torsen or TruTrac differential. That would be a great street/road race combo. As for 1/4 mile stuff, I think those that are serious about it tend to stick to an automatic for consistency.

I would square away the suspension first then brakes. My '68 has Global West upper/lower control arms and Total Control strut rods, Maier Racing 600# coils and 165# Race leaf springs, 1 1/8" front sway bar/ 3/4" rear, TKO-600 with 3.50:1 9in rear with a 393w stroker. Not bone jarring but firm. It's my daily driver. I'm planning the exact same for the '73 Mach-1. The only thing I would consider adding to my '68 is a torque arm.
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#8
MeZapU;161777 Wrote:Sounds like you should get the suspension sorted out before you start changing a major part of the drivetrain.

Look into a posi/traction lock rear differential, bigger front swaybar, install a rear swaybar, and maybe new shocks and even better tires if traction is a problem.

Do you have front disc brakes?

600LB coils 195LB leafs 1 1/8" front sway bar 3/4" rear sway bar, subframe connectors. getting them installed as we speak hopefully done by saturday to test it out on the track. Shocks (front sensa-trac monroe and KYB gas-a-just rear) are ehhh and so are tires (falken zieks (225/45/18) in the front and lionharts in the rear (275/35/20). thats next on my list when they get worned out.

brakes are wilwood 4p

cazsper;161794 Wrote:I hate automatic transmissions. They're boring. I suppose it depends what you want it for. As far as a manual, a T-5 is a pretty straight forward swap. A lot of places sell kits for this. I used the TKO-600 and their kit from Modern Driveline. I personally wouldn't use a T-5 for much more than 400hp. For a 302, I would go T-5 with a Pro-5.0 shifter (smooth shifts and shorter throw), 3.55 gears and a Torsen or TruTrac differential. That would be a great street/road race combo. As for 1/4 mile stuff, I think those that are serious about it tend to stick to an automatic for consistency.

I would square away the suspension first then brakes. My '68 has Global West upper/lower control arms and Total Control strut rods, Maier Racing 600# coils and 165# Race leaf springs, 1 1/8" front sway bar/ 3/4" rear, TKO-600 with 3.50:1 9in rear with a 393w stroker. Not bone jarring but firm. It's my daily driver. I'm planning the exact same for the '73 Mach-1. The only thing I would consider adding to my '68 is a torque arm.

suspension is getting done. But i want a tranny for that OD. It kills on gas going to school. and if i went with a t-5 what would be a nice clutch for dual purpose?

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
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#9
I use to swear for manual transmission and use to think the automatics are for grannies. Well, I ain't granny, but the more powerfull the engines gets the more it needs to use the manual right. Try to shift TKO600 from 2nd to 3rd gear while your engine is revving 7000 rpm, doable but not an easy task. Manual needs to be driven like it's stolen when hammering on the strip or track - you don't baby it. Manual transmission behind pumped up SBF/BBF makes you smile and gives you a healthy doze of testosterone. It's hard to beat in emotional way.

When it comes to consistancy on strip or the user friendliness the automatics are hard to beat. Plus you can stick your elbow out while cruising on town even with heavy traffic.

Take a look too the TH200 R4, they are light, they are small and they're good geared. Extreme Automatics makes adapters for SBF and for 429/460 engines. TH200 R4 can be made to withstand +1200 hp so no need worry about. Only bugger is that they're GM made...

Anyway I'll stick with the stick, but something to think about.
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#10
Yup..Love driving a manual...but counts where i am...I agree with Finmach...Alot of give and take with each...But for less hassle in town specially if you got alot of power..Auto is the king of in town driving..Being in southern Cali you mite have some heavy traffic and tall hills...I been stuck in some bad spots with a stick in seattle...And i swore i would never hit that town again with a stick!! i wasted so much clutch Sad They got oil slick wet hills that are so steep at some stop lights in town..You feel like you are taking off in the space shuttle..Burning clutch then rubber and sliding back with cars right on your ass is not my idea of fun..lol

Heavy traffic and lots of stop and goes and tall hills?...Auto!!...Have rural driving or alot of long non clogged freeways.?.stick!! Wink atleast for me..lol
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