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Austin Vert's Power Mirror Tutorial - Part 10


Hi and welcome. In this last tutorial, we will be going through the installation of the power mirrors into your mustang. This will take in wiring up, installing the mirrors, mirror switch, and carrying out some final tests.


Your two doors will be off the car at this stage.If you have not done so, remove the two door cards and all hardware from the doors.I find painter's stands the best way to support the doors which will be turned upside down, as seen in my photos. You will need to buy a washer of a particular size.It must have an outer diameter of 44mm or 1 3/4 inches, and an inner diameter of 25mm or 1 inch.This back up washer will get glued to the back of the door card hole, where the old mirror toggle lever was positioned, or went through.This hole is where the mirror switch plug and socket will be passing through.Using the epoxy glue. glue that washer into place. You may have to file away the inside of the washer as seen in my photos for the two aluminium tabs of the switch assembly to sit comfortably within that inner ring.Trial and error is your best bet here.Glue washer into place and wait half an hour before you attach the switch assembly onto the door card.This is done by lining up or positioning the switch onto the door card, and then pressing down firmly on the assembly from the front, and force bending the two aluminium tabs back down onto the metal washer.Make sure the two tabs are sitting as low as they can on that washer. That then, is your switch assembly in and done.

Next, we will assemble up the two mirrors and associated hardware and wiring.This process will be the final time we assemble up the whole mirrors. Here, you will be attaching the motors to the brackets, the brackets to the bodies,the back up plates to the motors, and the wiring coming off the motors and out of the bodies last. So install motors and brackets first, alighn up and tighten the bolts of the bracket. Check alighnment by using a square ended ruler placed on the front face of the upper brackets.This ruler check process replaces the rattle can plastic top test we did on the bracket alighnment before. Check for vertical and horizontal alighnments as you did with the rattle can top before.If you're happy with that alighnment, then place your neoprean packing washer on the back of the plastic mirror back up plate, and install that plate to the mirror motor.Now, take your screw driver and tighten up the three screws holding the motor onto the bracket. Alighn and adjust as necessary, so that you end up with equal gaping around the outer edge of the back up plate and the mouth of the mirror body.Leave the back up plates on the motors. Now we do the wiring.Use your red, yellow and blue 3mm or 1/8 wiring to match up with the same wiring on the T Bird motors.Cut lengths of 2 feet or 600 mm wiring of the three colors. The idea is to now use the black plastic wiring sheath and sleeve it over the three wires. Feed that up into the floor of the bodies and out the front of the bodies. Next, cut, splice and crimp the ends of the three wires from the motor and the 2 foot section you just fed through. Use the bullet connectors for all your connecting jobs.Now join the wires together matching the colors for the same colored wires. Now wrap the excess wiring into a small ball, and then using Velcro wrap, wrap up the wiring ball, and push it to the inner back cavity of the mirror housing or body.The Velcro idea is to stop any rattle noises of the connectors that may occur when driving around.So, coming out of the underside of the pedistal mirror bases, you should have a decent length of the plastic wire sheathing, and then more length of the three wires. Now pop the bullet connectors onto the ends of the three wires. Once done, that is the mirror assemblies finished. NOTE: On the passengers side mirror, you will be feeding the wires into the floor just before the foot plate of the bracket itself. You drilled out that hole before. It's important to locate that wiring away to the left side as it goes into the back of the housing, so as not to interfere with the back up plate when it swings up and down and from left to right with normal mirror operation. If it needs pinning down, then do so by glueing the plastic sheath to the face of the bracket.

The next step, is to mask up the mirror motors and bodies again, because we will be spray painting some mat black acrylic lacquer from a rattle can, into the mirror housings to hide any wires or parts of brackets that may be seen around the gap between the mirror glass and the mirror bodies.Do this, and un mask the tape and paper, and your done.We are now ready to install the mirror assemblies complete, to the out side of the two doors.One really important thing to mention here. Please do your best to use nut serts and matching screws for attaching the mirror bodies to your door skins. These nut serts give a really good strong grip for the bodies to hold onto. Drilling holes straight into the door skin metal, and then using self tapping screws just won't do the job properly, and will end up failing on you later on. Minimizing vibrations with a firm, strong grip of the mirror bodies to the doors is vital, and very important.PLEASE USE NUT SERTS if you have not already done so.So screw and attach the two bodies to the doors, feeding the wires through at the same time.Don't forget to use your base pedistal mounting plastic gaskets too.

Now we follow on with some more wiring jobs.Start by working on the two doors first.You will come to see that the way i have chosen to wire up the mirror project is to make the concept of removing and refitting and replacing parts as easy as possible. For example, lets say your mirror motor fails you and needs replacing. You will see that the way i wired up the mirror housings , you can remove the motor and disconnect the wiring from the housing without having to remove the whole mirror body off the car door. Also, lets say you want to paint the out side of your car door, and you want to remove the whole mirror assembly off the door. You can by disconnecting the wires located just inside the top of the door shell. Now we will wire up the drivers door first. The name of the game is to pin the wiring down to the inner surfaces of the door to avoid completely, the window glass from interfering with the wire at any stage. This is done by using heavy duty Velcro hook and loop tape. You don't use the hook and loop itself, but just cut a small strip of hook or loop and use that single piece to pin down the wiring to the metal skin where you want to. It's peel and stick.The wires coming into the top of the drivers door should end about where the top hinge bolts are located. The pigtail plug will be sitting in the door cavity opening where the old toggle lever and cables came into the door card.Give that pigtail plug and wire, some slack or play as you will need that slack when you come to link it up later when you are putting back your door card. Follow my wiring diagram to the letter when connecting any wires up.Using your insulated bullet connectors, make all your connections as per the wiring diagrams. Remember, the positive hot feed and negative fed wires will be 4mm or 3/16 wires,and so the terminal connectors will be for that size wire as well. Also, you will have a situation where two yellow wires will be joining up with one yellow wire.Two into one if you like. In this case, use 4mm or3/16 bullet connectors for this situation only. Now connect up the three wires that runs from the connectors located at the top hinge area, and join them up to the pigtail wires. Use zip ties to hold the wiring to the inner door shell walls. I will mention too at this stage that the pigtail plug has the numbers 1 to 8 stamped on the back of the plug itself for wiring identification. If you follow my wiring diagram, i have provided those numbers and what wire goes to where. By double checking the numbers stamped on the back of the plug and matching them up with my wiring instructions, you won't go wrong.

Now unroll the rest of the three yellow, red and blue wires, halve the total length, cut, and feed those wires out of the doors and into the two A pillars respectively. In the case of the passengers side, you can feed the wires through the hole you drilled, and up and into the kick plate area, into the cabin. For the drivers side, you should see a hole in the inner steel wall ,adjacent the hole you drilled out. Enlarge that hole with a rat tail file, and then feed the wires straight into the kick wall area as well. Connect these wires up to the correct wires back in the door cavities. (SEE YOUR WIRING DIAGRAMS PLEASE - REMEMBER, COLOR TO MATCH COLOR) Now connect and run your positive and negative wires from the pigtail wiring, and back into the drivers side A pillar, and under the dash.Using help from a friend or two, re install the two doors back on, making sure to feed up the slack wiring as you mount the doors back on the hinges. It's a good idea to have both doors positioned fairly close to the A pillars when carrying out this wiring up procedure. Position and bolt both doors on, and link up the two rubber bellows into the A pillars as well. Run the positive and negative wires under the dash and up to the fuse box. Run the red, yellow and blue wires from both sides under the dash and connect up under the dash with a location of your choosing. Leave some slack in these wires too. For the fuse, you can use a 10amp blade type fuse, and link it up to the fuse box. You will be looking for the ignition wire to tap into. The negative gets a tap into the dash chassis with a place of your choosing. The mirrors won't function until the ignition key is turned on. Tidy up any wiring issues you may have, and that's the job finished. If the wiring side of the project is too much for you, then get a sparky to come and do the final link up and the fuse box setup.

At this stage, you can fix the mirror glass onto the plastic back up plates. Make sure both surfaces are clean an dry.Next, attach and cover the entire back of the glass with the 3M double sided low profile auto tape. Using a very sharp razor blade, trim off all the excess unwanted tape from around the mirror edges. Now peel off the backing paper from the tape and very slowly and carefully, position and place the mirror glass onto the surface of the plastic mirror back up plate. Do this procedure for both mirrors.

You can also attach the chrome trim knob and bezel mirror switch dress trim on at this stage if you ended up buying these products for your switch. These products simply use a double sided tape to stick themselves onto position.

Lastly, you can replace your two door cards and all the hardware that came off with it. Connect the mirror switch to the pigtail plug and pop the door card back on. All we really need to do now is test the mirrors again for functionality and proper workings. This is where it pays to do a mock up test before in the project, as if any problems are now encountered, it's a major pain to try and rectify them at this stage. If all went well with the testing, then congratulations to you for getting the whole thing together for yourself as you have. I hope you enjoyed the project, and didn't encounter too many problems along the way, and i hope you will enjoy having and using power mirrors on you Mustang.ThankyouyellowThankyouyellowThankyouyellowThankyouyellowThankyouyellow

Many thanks,




Excellent, Greg, very nicely done, great attention to detail in your construction, drawings and documentation. You definitely raised the bar to a new height on this one.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
Don C;278961 Wrote:Excellent, Greg, very nicely done, great attention to detail in your construction, drawings and documentation. You definitely raised the bar to a new height on this one.

Thanks Don,

It's very kind of you to say so, and i'm glad you like what i've come up with here. Yeah, i wanted to put the detail and the effort in to try and get it all right for folks to use the tutorials as a good source of reference, if they wanted to reproduce the power mirrors for themselves. I think i've done this, and people should be able to turn out a set for themselves if they want to. Sure, not cheap, and a lot of work involved, but if you really want them for your car, i think it's all worthwhile.

Let's be honest - you're not going to be able to just walk into a shop and buy the whole thing as a swap out are you? Until the day(if ever) that a company puts its money on the line and manufactures a complete swap out kit, then my invention, will fit the bill perfectly.thumb

Cheers mate,


I've gone through all of Greg's tutorials and his construction drawings and thanks to all of his hard work believe this is a relatively easy project that will provide a quality and long lasting solution to our drooping passenger-side mirrors. It also has the added benefit of using easy to find materials, which benefits both initial construction and replacements, if ever needed.

Some time ago I took my passenger mirror apart, broke out the mirror, tightened up the tension on the ball and socket, but knew it was a temporary fix. Although the mechanical remote on my driver-side mirror works, it's a little loose and on some road surfaces tends to vibrate. This brings up the question, why remote on driver's mirror only? I can easily roll down my window to adjust it, if only one mirror had remote it should have the passenger-side.

I fully intend to be able to easily adjust my mirrors, and more importantly, keep them in adjustment, by spring. It'll be great to be able to see what, or who, is alongside my fastback, especially the passenger side.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
Hi Don,

Thanks for your positive feedback, and confirmation and belief in my system. Interesting how you would class the project as straight forward from your perspective - i see that as another positive .

You raise a good point about having an adjustable driver's side mirror but not the passengers. I agree with you here, and think it was all a bit silly at the end of the day. I'm not sure, but i believe it might have been the Pinto '74 that had an adjustable passenger's side mirror with a cable running from that mirror then under the dash, and had an adjustable toggle lever mounted on the dash before the driver. Anyway, the point is that the'71-'73 Mustangs missed out completely.

One other thing you mentioned about mirror vibration. Here's my total experience about this subject. As folks would know, i own a '73 Mach 1 and a '73 Convertible. The Mach 1's mirrors are factory original, and i bought and installed a new set of repro mirrors for the Vert a couple of years ago.

In both cases all the mirrors are in top condition. By that i mean, all the bodies are attached to the doors very firmly, properly, and very tightly, as tight as they could ever be. The mirror back up plates are tight and secure, with no movement, sagging, play, or wobbles. That's all very good. But what i have noticed driving around in the two cars over the last couple of years, was the driver's mirror has a tendency to slightly vibrate on occasions. It's not too bad a thing but it's there. The passenger's side mirrors have more of a tendency to vibrate randomly than the driver's mirror does. In my opinion, there is nothing i can do to rectify this problem. I put the problem down to a few things.

With both my cars,(automatics) i have a lumpy idle, and when pulled up at the stop lights, the whole car body shakes and vibrates noticeably.This vibration is transferred to the door mirror bodies, and they shake as well, causing a small degree of mirror glass vibration. When you accelerate away or you are driving around at different speeds, the vibration thing comes and goes randomly, according to motor revs or driving speeds, or how bumpy the road you are driving on is. This vibration transfer coming from the car body and into the mirror bodies, is something you won't beat. It's just the nature of these older designed cars.

Also, i have a high powered stereo system in my Vert,and i have noticed the passenger's side mirror glass vibrate sometimes when i turn up the music,and play it loud with a lot of bass present. It vibrates to the music drum or bass lines.So having said all that, i have road tested my new power mirror system, and have made very sure that the mirror bodies,the mirror back up plates, the glass, in fact all componets of the system are very, very tight with over engineered parts for extra strength. There is no slop, sag, play, movement or wobble in my system, but i still get that vibration problem as i have described above . Again i say that it's all to do with the overall design of these cars causing the mirrors to vibrate the way that they do. It's not the mirror assemblies themselves. In my case, i believe that i haven proven that to be true, and sadly there is not much i can do to solve that problem. The only thing that might help, would be to install a soft rubber gasket in between the plastic pedistal gasket and the door body. That might help reduce the vibration transfer coming into the mirror bodies. Chin



I read it all and I´m impressed. This must be the most detailed tutorial on the internet!
It´s not for me, as I lack the skills, accuracy, patience and attention to detail to pull it off. Plus I´m all thumbs and I can´t cut a straight line.
But it´s a great invention that many members should be able to reproduce given the skills they have shown on other occasions.
Thanks Greg!!

[Image: 1z21rv4.png]


"If I were you...... I´d rather be me."  Tongue

Check out my video:

Not to take anything away from Greg's great solution in coming up with a power mirror system for our cars, Don brings up a situation that is frankly damn annoying and that is vibrating and drooping passenger side mirror.
In the first post from Greg, I put forward my solution to improve right side viewing and that was a greatly enlarged convex mirror surface. My solution to the vibrating and drooping mirror was to use a dob of GOOP on the ball/socket, post, P 4 #35. This stopped the problem, but unfortunately stops any adjustment. As I'm the only driver of my car, I set it where I needed it. It's not a permanent fix, so t can be reset,
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