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Are these the right gaskets for head and intake?
#1
Are these the intake and head gaskets that I need?  351c-4v.. Supposed to be a 1972 Q code but looking like the heads might indicate an M code 70-71.



Intake - FEL-PRO MS96012
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...&jsn=10527

Head gasket kit - FEL-PRO FS8347PT
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...692&jsn=18

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#2
The valley pan set looks correct and do you need the head gasket 'kit' or just the head gaskets? Wouldn't hurt to have the kit, you never know what else you'll need to do.
A HUGE tip on installing the valley pan. This is just what I did mind you. I use Permatex 2 non-hardening gasket maker to seal the intake ports. RTV does not do well in gasoline. On the ends, use a 1/4" bead of "The Right Stuff" again not RTV or the rubber ends with the kit.. The Right Stuff is expensive unless you can find it in a tube. Usually it is in a small caulking gun style tube.
I'm sure you'll manage, but have help lowering the intake down. Another tip is to use a couple of 1/4" eye bolts in opposite corners of the carb base and use a length of dowel or something through the holes as a handle to lower the intake. Also get a couple of long 5/16 bolts with the heads cut off and put one each side of the carb mount are in the block. These are straight up and down and you can use them as a guide. Torque in sequences and in stages.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#3
(02-20-2019, 09:04 AM)Stanglover Wrote: The valley pan set looks correct and do you need the head gasket 'kit' or just the head gaskets? Wouldn't hurt to have the kit, you never know what else you'll need to do.
A HUGE tip on installing the valley pan. This is just what I did mind you. I use Permatex 2 non-hardening gasket maker to seal the intake ports. RTV does not do well in gasoline. On the ends, use a 1/4" bead of "The Right Stuff" again not RTV or the rubber ends with the kit.. The Right Stuff is expensive unless you can find it in a tube. Usually it is in a small caulking gun style tube.
I'm sure you'll manage, but have help lowering the intake down. Another tip is to use a couple of 1/4" eye bolts in opposite corners of the carb base and use a length of dowel or something through the holes as a handle to lower the intake. Also get a couple of long 5/16 bolts with the heads cut off and put one each side of the carb mount are in the block. These are straight up and down and you can use them as a guide. Torque in sequences and in stages.
Geoff.

Thanks Geoff!

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#4
(02-20-2019, 09:56 AM)scgamecock Wrote:
(02-20-2019, 09:04 AM)Stanglover Wrote: The valley pan set looks correct and do you need the head gasket 'kit' or just the head gaskets? Wouldn't hurt to have the kit, you never know what else you'll need to do.
A HUGE tip on installing the valley pan. This is just what I did mind you. I use Permatex 2 non-hardening gasket maker to seal the intake ports. RTV does not do well in gasoline. On the ends, use a 1/4" bead of "The Right Stuff" again not RTV or the rubber ends with the kit.. The Right Stuff is expensive unless you can find it in a tube. Usually it is in a small caulking gun style tube.
I'm sure you'll manage, but have help lowering the intake down. Another tip is to use a couple of 1/4" eye bolts in opposite corners of the carb base and use a length of dowel or something through the holes as a handle to lower the intake. Also get a couple of long 5/16 bolts with the heads cut off and put one each side of the carb mount are in the block. These are straight up and down and you can use them as a guide. Torque in sequences and in stages.
Geoff.

Thanks Geoff!

 You're welcome. One more thing, make sure there is plenty of TRS at the corners where the heads and block meet. That's a typical oil leak area.
 Again, this is what I have done on mine, others may do it differently.
 Geoff.
 PS It seems that money is tight, I know first hand how that goes, take your time and do as you can afford. It will be worth it in the end. Keep the car!

I learn something new every day!
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#5
I did not go check the numbers but the port size in the valley pan looks like 2-V. Be sure you are getting 4-V intake and also exhaust is different. Head gasket is the same just be sure to get the head gasket on with the marked end FRONT to the front. Some people throw them on with the fel pro name up and that will make one of them backwards.
They should be available at local parts house so you do not have to order them. I am having no luck at getting what I order have had the last 5 orders be wrong from 4 different suppliers. I do not think anyone pays attentions.
I always take a pic so I do not have second thoughts if I was right or not. In one picture I am holding a 2-V exhaust gasket next to a 4-V head you can see the size difference. Shape of the opening is also different.
I did go back and look and the exhaust gaskets in the link you sent are 2-V no 4-V, note no bump around the bolt hole like 4-V has. I think the intake is also be sure 4-V. Sometimes their pictures do not match description they are lazy.
You should get you a tap and run in all the head bolt holes in the block. Also run tap in all the holes in the head. Use anti seize on the bolts to the headers. Use only a couple drops of engine oil on the head bolts so they tighten to correct spec. It was heck for me to pull 105 lbs. on those with my neck out.
These pictures are of the inside of an engine that sat for 27 years so they can survive.
Hey if I was not knee deep in my Mach 1 I would come down and help.
[Image: 100-3537.jpg]

[Image: 100-3539.jpg]

[Image: 100-3336.jpg]

[Image: 100-3350.jpg]

[Image: 100-3351.jpg]


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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