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Anyone used the McLeod Racing Muscle Car 5 trans?
#1
I am reading more and more about replacing the transmission. This is one of my projects planned for winter in a year. I am getting the itch.
My plan is to replace my C6 and go with a manual 5. I will be also stroking my 351-4V, but intend to keep it "mild" with the idea of keeping the power at lower RPMs for street use.
In any case I have been reading about modified T5s, TKO500/600, but I have not read a thread discussing the newer McLeod transmission. They have a "Ford" model said to be the same length as the Toploader. Any thoughts?
http://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/dr...07822.html

Also, I have Hooker Comp 6915 headers. They exit very tightly to the C6, so I wonder if I have to worry about clearance issues when I swap the transmission. I don't want to replace the headers if I don't need to.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#2
tony-muscle;283657 Wrote:I am reading more and more about replacing the transmission. This is one of my projects planned for winter in a year. I am getting the itch.
My plan is to replace my C6 and go with a manual 5. I will be also stroking my 351-4V, but intend to keep it "mild" with the idea of keeping the power at lower RPMs for street use.
In any case I have been reading about modified T5s, TKO500/600, but I have not read a thread discussing the newer McLeod transmission. They have a "Ford" model said to be the same length as the Toploader. Any thoughts?
http://www.mcleodracing.com/index.php/dr...07822.html

Also, I have Hooker Comp 6915 headers. They exit very tightly to the C6, so I wonder if I have to worry about clearance issues when I swap the transmission. I don't want to replace the headers if I don't need to.

Tony, that McLeod looks very nice, more like a European gearbox without those stupid external shift rods. Coming from England, I personally had never seen a box with external rods, not to say they were not around on some cars.
I may look into that for my own car if the price is right!!
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#3
Externally it appears to look like a T-5 in a new wrapper. The top shift rail is exposed and not hidden within the tail shaft like a T-5. The top cover likely is the same in function as a T-5. It probably has an upgraded gearset like the Astro or G-Force T-5's as the torque handling capacity and gear ratios are almost identical. It even has the R-5 lever pin and backup light switch in similar location to the T-5.

Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
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#4
I thought of that option myself but what stopped me from considering it as a serious option was the fact that it had not been released and had no release date from the factory. Now that it is out, I looked at the specs, I am glad I went with my TKO 600. If you already had a manual car, I would suggest to go for it due to the fact you have a bellhousing, clutch linkage, pedal assembly and driveshaft that should THEORETICALLY fit. I emphasize the key word because we have all bought parts designed for our cars or mods only to find out they will not work.

Since you are starting off with an automatic, you will need to track these parts to work with a transmission's who's main draw is being a straight swap, defeating the purpose of this option to begin with. Also, the price of the McLeod is about 500 dollars more that a TKO for the transmission itself. For that price you can pay for some of the installation kit. Instead I would recommend a TKO 500 or 600 along with an installation kit. I personally did this (TKO 600) on my '72 Mach 1 (351C/4 speed toploader) earlier this year. I chose to go through Modern Driveline and was fortunate enough to deal with Bruce who listened to what I wanted to do and used that as a starting point.

From my recent experience, I think these are the important things to consider. The cost will be relatively close with either option. Will you spend time hunting the other parts needed for the conversion or spend the money to get them in a kit, which are also brand new parts? Tremec's have been around for a while and have been tested on both the street and the track. In my experience, I did not need any cutting to fit the TKO in my car. Not only that, Modern Driveline now makes a low profile TKO with the casing strategically machined, which fits even better. Of course that was released after I bought mine, because that is my luck.

Hopefully I have added some clarity to your decision. I mention Modern Driveline because that is who I went through and I was extremely pleased with Bruce's help. The other option is American Powertrain, who also offers a hydraulic clutch setup for our Mustangs. After the fairly straight installation and adjusting of the pinion angle of the rear end, I can cruise at 85 mph at around 2300 rpm and it's smooth as silk. I tend to be lengthy with my typing so I'll stop here but feel free to ask any questions or have me give more detail about my conversion.
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#5
Otto;283700 Wrote:I thought of that option myself but what stopped me from considering it as a serious option was the fact that it had not been released and had no release date from the factory. Now that it is out, I looked at the specs, I am glad I went with my TKO 600. If you already had a manual car, I would suggest to go for it due to the fact you have a bellhousing, clutch linkage, pedal assembly and driveshaft that should THEORETICALLY fit. I emphasize the key word because we have all bought parts designed for our cars or mods only to find out they will not work.

Since you are starting off with an automatic, you will need to track these parts to work with a transmission's who's main draw is being a straight swap, defeating the purpose of this option to begin with. Also, the price of the McLeod is about 500 dollars more that a TKO for the transmission itself. For that price you can pay for some of the installation kit. Instead I would recommend a TKO 500 or 600 along with an installation kit. I personally did this (TKO 600) on my '72 Mach 1 (351C/4 speed toploader) earlier this year. I chose to go through Modern Driveline and was fortunate enough to deal with Bruce who listened to what I wanted to do and used that as a starting point.

From my recent experience, I think these are the important things to consider. The cost will be relatively close with either option. Will you spend time hunting the other parts needed for the conversion or spend the money to get them in a kit, which are also brand new parts? Tremec's have been around for a while and have been tested on both the street and the track. In my experience, I did not need any cutting to fit the TKO in my car. Not only that, Modern Driveline now makes a low profile TKO with the casing strategically machined, which fits even better. Of course that was released after I bought mine, because that is my luck.

Hopefully I have added some clarity to your decision. I mention Modern Driveline because that is who I went through and I was extremely pleased with Bruce's help. The other option is American Powertrain, who also offers a hydraulic clutch setup for our Mustangs. After the fairly straight installation and adjusting of the pinion angle of the rear end, I can cruise at 85 mph at around 2300 rpm and it's smooth as silk. I tend to be lengthy with my typing so I'll stop here but feel free to ask any questions or have me give more detail about my conversion.

I think you are right. I can save some money going the TKO600 route. However, I wonder if my headers will clear the TKO600?
From what I found, it seems that the TKO600 is 24" from the bellhousing to the output, while the C6 is 33.5". This means I will need a shaft about 10" longer. Does this mean I need to change the pinion angle as well? If so, what does that entail?

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#6
From what I could find, the C6 transmission itself is 22.365 in. That is minus the bellhousing length. The TKO is just over 24 in, like you indicated. I would plan to buy a driveshaft to account for the possible cost. If things work out to where you don't need one, then it's money saved. In the end though, these specs are just theory. Until you have whatever bellhousing you choose along with the transmission installed, you won't know the exact number. What kind of clutch are you planning to use?

Drive angle is the relationship between the vertical downward angle of the transmission with the vertical upward angle of the differential pinion. The ideal setting is to have the same numerical spec with opposite value (-2, +2) so they cancel out when operating. Bruce set me up with a kit that should've given me a THEORETICAL 4 degrees of trans drive angle. After installation, it was 5. This can be expected because of anything from ride height front and rear, to the age and wear on the vehicle and components themselves, like engine and transmission mounts. I couldn't lessen it because I didn't have more clearance between the trans and tunnel. My transmission drive angle before the conversion was 2 as well as my pinion angle.

I bought 2 degree shims (basically a metal wedge) from Summit to install between the leaf spring and differential housing and after installing them I got 4.5 degrees. Again, THEORETICALLY I should've gotten 4 at the rear, but the 4.5 worked in my favor as it was closer to the 5. The accepted tolerance is usually 1 degree difference. So far I have no issues whatsoever with the drivetrain. With the low profile TKO that Modern Driveline sells now, you might be able to get 2 degrees and not need shimming.

If you need more info, don't hesitate to ask.
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#7
if you get a 600 and want to speed shift it, you should get the carbon fiber lined blocker rings and shift rod mod.
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#8
Where is a good source of "tricked" TKO600s?

1971 M-code Mach 1

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#9
Hanlon Motorsports can do almost anything with the Tremecs to include faceplating if you so desire. Their website is not that great but if you call, they are very friendly.

Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
  Reply
#10
I read tko 600's sometimes have an issue with high rpm shifts so I got the carbon lining as well. Modem Driveline installed them prior to shipping but I haven't checked it because my trans and rear end are still breaking in. The way I liked at it is that it's extra insurance for durability. It wasn't much to have it done.
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