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Anyone run the exhaust under the torque plate?
#1
Right now my exhaust goes above the plate that is unique to our convertibles. I am test fitting a gearvendors OD unit that is going to end up smack dab in the middle of the tunnel just above the plate. There may not be enough room left for exhaust pipes.

So does anyone have a setup where they just ran it below?

I wonder how well it would clear? I already have headers and they hang pretty low. I don't drive the car except for fun days. I am already sporting subframe connectors which hang down pretty low themselves.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

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#2
How about some side pipes like a cobra? Lol
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#3
I think your ground clearance will be affected.
there was a post here a while ago with someone looking for a car and his exhaust pipes were below the plate, I'll see if I can find it, maybe he might be able to help with the clearance question.
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**UPDATE**
the member is wrshog

and I found this picture attached to one of the posts


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[Image: 2zem9nk.jpg]
Iyman
1972 Mustang convertible run_horse  
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#4
Mine used to be just like the ones in the post above. It works.
The lowest part is usually the header flange. I never had any issues except when I drove down a steep driveway or parking entrance.
Now that the car sits so low it started to make problems which us why I reverted to an original exhaust. I think the original looks much neater too.
But the above setup will work.

[Image: 1z21rv4.png]

Mike

"If I were you...... I´d rather be me."  Tongue

Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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#5
Would installing an aftermarket subframe connector make it possible to remove the torque plate ? Or maybe fabricating something to replace the stock plate that will allow enough room for the gear vendor OD and the exhaust ?

I'm sure most of you are familiar with these ... http://tinmanfabrication.com
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#6
Yeah, the GV takes up most of the room in the tunnel. I will just run the exhaust below. I measured and don't think it will hang any lower than my subframe connectors and, except for that curb, I rarely hit them.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

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#7
I am getting too old for this working under the car crap. My lifted jeep is much much easier to work on.

Rather than try to cobble a set of parts together and because the new electronics will make it easier for my wife to drive, I went ahead a purchased a new gearvendors kit. I only got to work on it for a couple of hours but I have the old one out and the new tail shaft in. Trying to torque down a tail shaft lying on the ground with no clearence is a pain.

The rest should go in pretty easy. While I had the thing apart I took apart the dash and sent my tach off to rocketman. When I am all done I will have overdrive, an accurate speedometer (never fixed it after swapping gears) and an accurate tach. Sweet.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

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#8
My oem single exhaust was below the plate. My dual exhaust is below the plate. I have 2.5" pipes and have no problems with the exhaust ever fitting/clearing/scrapping. If yer mufflers are getting hit they may not be the ones best suited to the car?
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#9
I'm taking the vert to have the 2.5 exhaust re-routed to above the torque plate. The exhaust has to move to make room for the Maier subframe connector cross brace. Two parts won't occupy the same space, Hehheh.
When using the Gearvenders you may need to fabricate a "double hump" torque plate. Alternately install a Maier type subframe connector cross piece, which would replace the torque plate.

[Image: IMG_3572.JPG]

Miss May, 65 2+2 EFI 331 4R70W 3.55 trac-loc Not much origional remaining
Robert's 73 Vert 308 4R70W 3.25 trac-loc. EFI conversion & 8.8 Trac-Loc 3.31 started.


If it ain't broke, I haven't modified it yet.
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#10
Tubo, that looks like a nice setup.

It turns out the GV unit occupies most of the space above the torque plate. For my situation I may as well just run the exhaust below and a little off to the side.

I am pretty happy with the global west subframe connectors. I used them as a jacking point with the floor jack. I left the convertible on jack stands for almost a week with the passenger wheels off the ground and had no problems opening/shutting either door.

I remember 20 or so years ago before the subframe connectors I had it jacked up and the doors wouldn't open/shut.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

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